How to get guide block to "down" position
 

OK - I did this wrong, so am now looking to correct the mistake:

This is for a 1997 187TD TowLite.

I installed (4) new lift cables, with the camper top in the down position (resting on 3.5" boards laid on the frame rails front and rear - followed Rob from J&R's recommendation.). So far, so good.

Unfortunately, not paying close enough attention to the illustrations from the manual and available here online, I thought the lift cylinder guide block was in the "down" position. It is fully extended to the curb/door side of the trailer, however ("up"). When I press "up" on the control, it tops out. When I press "down", it does nothing as there is no load on it (boards still in place).:eek:

Thinking if I got the hydraulic system to release pressure it would allow the guide block to return to "down" (street/driver side), I had someone hold the safety release cable out (heard the safety let go) while I slowly opened the "T" manual release valve on the pump. Nothing seemed to happen, and the lift cylinder guide block did not move. I've tried this while the power switch is set to 110/12 volt/off, no difference. I verified the battery is fully charged (also only 10 month old deep cycle - nice battery).

Any idea what to try next to get the lift cylinder guide block into the "down" position?:confused:

My next thought was to try the above procedure while pushing on the guide block......gently, evenly......

If I am following you correctly here......The weight of the top forces the hydraulic cylinder back to the down position, it doesn't power itself down.

Hello and thanks!

So are you thinking I need to jack up the top to the up position?

It is the weight of the top that retracts the ram. There are a number of ways to try to retract the ram now. If a come-a-long can be attached to the guide block in a way so as to not bend the guide rod, this might work. A bottle jack pushing against the guide block might break it loose and start it retracting. The best way would be to attach a hydraulic pump, manual or electric to the vent port on the lift cylinder and pump it into the retracted position, using the same fluid that is in the system, Dextron transmission fluid. DO NOT use compressed air. A shop that rebuilds hydraulic systems would have this type of pump. There is a restrictor valve in the pump that controls how fast the top raises and lowers. This valve may be making it difficult to move the the ram back into the retracted position. If you open this valve to allow fluid to flow back to the pump, make sure you note how much you turned this valve so you can return it to the same position before you raise the top. Hope you get an idea from this post as to how to approach this problem. If you need more info, get back here and I would also be willing to talk to you on the phone.

This would work if you used 4 farm jacks or maybe 4 to 6 friends to lift it up and support it with 4 2x4s. Other ways are in my other post.

If you haven't already, you may want to read the article in this link:https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f61/...1998-24td-125/

Maybe you can get some ideas from it.

Thank you for your help - I have 2 farm jacks and may try this method using a 2x4x8 or 10 to spread the load out along the underside of the camper top.

The thing that confuses me, though, is at what point in jacking it up would the cables take the load? If the system is maxed at top position now, would I jack it up to bump that position, make sure the safety is engaged, then slowly back off the jacks and see if it holds on the cables?

I sure did use that extensively - thanks!

This is the tail end of a complete side wall rebuild, and your doc helped a lot!

Two recommendations:

1- As discussed before, try to retract the cylinder. Make sure somebody is pressing on the down portion of the switch or that the manual lowering valve is open before you do this. If you do this carefully, this may be the safest and easiest way.

2- Use jacks with boards to spread the load and raise the top. Disconnect the cables before raising. Stop when the rubber bulb seal contacts the tapered part of the lower body. Block the top securely in place. If you don't disconnect the cables from the top and disconnect them at the bottom instead, you will need somebody to apply constant tension to them. Otherwise they may come off the pulleys.

For #2 - wouldn't I need to have someone apply tension to the cables after disconnected from the top (same as if from bottom), as it is raised?

You are correct. The cables have a memory and may try to coil up as the load on them is relaxed. This may result in them coming off the pulleys. I suppose that you could attach some weights to the cables to keep them under a bit of load after they are disconnected.

Thanks to all for help!
 

We were able to get the guide bar into position with the help of a come-along. All went well, camper is operational. :)