Power switch
 

The switch next to the up and down switch what are the 3 positions and where should I have it when up and when down?

The switch is the master power switch which controls all twelve volt power of the trailer. Down position controls the lift, center position is all off, and the up gives power to the lights, furnace, and DSI water heater, if equipped. The only 12 volt item that doesn't go through the switch is the fridge in 12 volt mode, it connects straight to the battery.

You should view the video manual, it will answer a number of your questions: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...-youtube-1233/

Owners manual, this is for 2001 but is essentially the same as the 2000: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...2001-hi-lo-23/

Hi Rich,

I seem to recall that the fridge fan switch is also bypassed. Please correct me if wrong.

I'm not Rich, but, you're right, Greg.

- Jack

I never thought of that, but yes it is also bypassed because it is tied into the 12 volt feed to the fridge. I seldom use the fan here in PA, the fridge works fine without it ,and we boondock and like to conserve battery power.

Here in sunny (dry and dusty) California it comes in handy! I also prefer boondocking but have not tested my batteries capacity as of yet.

Another thought, I remember seeing a thread that mentioned the factory installed stereos are directly connected to the battery. I don't have one so can't confirm that.

That seems to be the case for the stereo and is often overlooked. A switch can be installed in line to shut it off.

Some owners have reported that their switch is wired backwards. If this is the case it is not a big deal. You can leave it the way it is, or you can switch the wires on it to get it operating like it should.

As far as the stereo being connected directly to the battery, this is done to maintain the memory, clock setting, etc. The draw from a stereo is very small, so it will not drain the battery under normal circumstances.

Raul

Thanks to all I'll make myself a note

Raul, I'm not trying to start a fight, but my factory installed stereo/FM/AM/CD/DVD player would take my trailer battery to a "dead" state within a month and a half, if I was not hooked to shore power.

The current draw on these things can be on the order of 0.05 Amps, in the "standby state", and yes, it does not sound like much. But, in 24 hours, this equates to 1.2 Amps . In 30 days, the battery has lost 36 Amps. In another 15 days, the total draw has gone up to 54 Amps.

I may be wrong, but I seem to recall that a 55 Amp reduction in the charge state gives you a dead 12 V battery.

I installed the inline on/off switch Rich mentioned to completely remove its parasitic draw and have had no further problems. And, I have not missed the memory settings it was trying to save.

- Jack