Resting on Safety Bar
 

I have a 1998 Towlite 21 ft. We just replaced the hydraulic motor/pump and it's lifting great now. The problem is the creep (I have the article to correct that problem and I have a mechanic working on it). Since it creeps when I get it all the way up I can work with it I can get it to stay up but of course it's resting on the safety bar at that point. Is this in any way dangerous? We're going on a trip in September and if the mechanic can't correct the creep is it OK to camp with it resting on the safety bar??? :confused:

If it creeps right down, I'd take along 4 - 2x4s cut to the right length that you could place between the outriggers and the top for the top to rest on. Ideally, they should be long enough to just take the weight off the bar.

The problem with it resting on the bar, is that it can break the welds and cause the bar to bend when you try to lower it. There are several posts in the forum about the bar coming up through the floor when that happens.

- Jack

If after replacing the pump and it is still creeping down then the seals in the hydraulic cylinder (ram) are worn and bypassing fluid. Any good Hydraulic shop can replace them.

I drop my trlr onto the safety bar on every use. I never leave it supported on the hydraulic system.
If it can break the welds on a safety bar, it is NOT a safety bar!

That is what the safety bar is for. This is how I interpreted
the instructions for use from the factory.

Others do as they wish.

My manual says to raise the top until it stops, drop to make sure the safety bar is working, then raise the top back up all the way to insure the hydraulic system is fully pressurized.

Ditto, RichR
Treeclimber

Double ditto!

Well, if that is what is says. I stand corrected.

Mine, not unlike most owners, would just settle to the safety bar anyway.

I don't think there is any physical safety issue. IF, the safety bar failed if would just creep down.

Reno, I agree that the top would just creep down rather than falling down. But, there have been several posts about the spot welds breaking.

Thinking about this, I wonder if the welds broke because the top was resting on the safety bar and the trailer was moved (with the top up)? The problem seems to happen most frequently when the trailer is "borrowed" (or otherwise used by someone not so familiar with it). I suspect moving the trailer with the top on the bar would subject the bar to "bouncing" force from the top which would probably overstress the welds. This could be one of the reasons for the warning not to move the trailer with the top up.

- Jack

I'm with Jack.

Perhaps someone could explain..... My 2000 24' Classic is heavy, think can all agree. My safety bar is pretty much FLAT. After reading the several posts about various problems with the bar, would not replacing it (when the need arises only) with a new bar with flanges or angles be stronger? Mines fine, but should the need come up and space is available, I think I'll do the mod and tell folks about it. Kinda test it. Any feedback or "I tried that" would help.
Treeclimber

The safety bar has been pretty much flat forever. The reason why I don't know. I always thought it was a clearance problem or something. ??? Anyone that is able to come up with a better one will be held in high regard.

Think I'll prepare one so it's ready if the need comes up.
Treeclimber

Yes, let us know how it goes! I was underneath HiLola yesterday to lube the lift system and concur the bar is flat. I didn't pay attention to whether an angle iron set up would work but will look more closely next time I go under there.

After fixing our 1994s rotted wood and pulled out cables I made 4 2x4 to brace the top up while camping. Saftey bar or no saftey bar the cables breaking is going to drop the top. Plus it takes all the strain off of those cables and their related parts. No strain up, no strain down, only while lifting or lowering. Maybe I'm just paranoid now after mine failed.

In a perfect world the cables won't snap, the top won't creep, and the safety bar won't bent. BUT, you gotta do what you gotta do.

Have had my 85 25' Voyager for just over a week and been under it many a time already. On mine the Safety Bar is quite stout (maybe 5/16" x 2")and only about 15" long from the end that drops behind the push plate when almost fully extended to where there is a block welded on to butt against the cylinder barrel. This seems plenty stout enough to support the weight of our camper top. I would think the reason the manual says to re-extend the cylinder after checking the Safety Bar action is to get the maximum top lift.
If it is left at the Safety Bar position the top will be low by 1" or so. Can not have Safety Bar activating a the max up position as would have no way of releasing it when lowering. The system is designed for the cylinder to be at max extension when the top is all the way up. That is why the manual says to run until the relief valve operates which indicates the cylinder is at it's max physical extension. Can't say all HiLo's were configured this way or if they made some modifications over the years. Will try to get some pictures and drawings of just how mine is constructed. As they say ONE picture is worth a thousand words!

Having the top raised to the full extent is where the bulb seal should be engaged all the way around the top and bottom halves.