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Hydraulic lift system Hydraulic, mechanical and electrical components of the lift system
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Old 05-02-2017, 02:19 PM   #21
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Note: That wasn't me with the hole in the box and the installed plug . That was from a post two years ago that I found and copied that quote. Bad on me, I did not reference it properly. I, too, was intrigued with the hole for the jack handle. Clever. But, thanks for the complement, Jack, even though I haven't done anything.

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Old 05-02-2017, 02:22 PM   #22
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Just a thought, but why would we need BOTH positive AND negative cables hanging out? If a properly insulated POSITIVE cable were exposed, you could use jumper cables--one to positive and then the neg attached to the frame and, of course, the other end of the jumpers properly connected to the full charged batt. Maybe?
Tree
I suspect you're right, Tree. You could check for a complete circuit with a multimeter. The only potential problem I see is finding a clean, metal ground on the frame. On my trailer, most of the metal is painted. I think having both cables simplifies hookups.

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Old 05-02-2017, 02:25 PM   #23
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My brain's failing again Rick - I didn't read your post properly. You DID make it clear.

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Old 05-02-2017, 04:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treeclimber View Post
Just a thought, but why would we need BOTH positive AND negative cables hanging out? If a properly insulated POSITIVE cable were exposed, you could use jumper cables--one to positive and then the neg attached to the frame and, of course, the other end of the jumpers properly connected to the full charged batt. Maybe?
Tree
I can only plead guilty to that Anglo-Saxon desire for neatness in all things. While certainly true from an electrical point of view, I could never be content knowing that there was only one battery cable needed. Salt without pepper. Yin without yang. The Lone Ranger without Tonto. No, not acceptable. Besides, I bet Walmart only sells them in pairs....LOL!!!
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Old 05-02-2017, 04:56 PM   #25
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This is what mine looks like. The lid has a short hinged section that opens enough to see the pump to insert the handle and be able to pump it on my knees. I might make a plug wired directly to the battery that I can reach that will plug into a jumper cable setup.
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Old 05-02-2017, 06:14 PM   #26
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Tom, that's an excellent picture of the manual pump in your first photo! Mine is the same, but it sits upright instead of on its side like yours. I can see why yours is that way though. The front of the trailer extends out over the top flap, blocking it.

Is there some kind of cover for the front opening of the battery box? If not, you must suck up a ton of road debris through it.

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Old 05-02-2017, 06:20 PM   #27
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Jack, I never gave it much thought but now I'm going to have to make one.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:22 PM   #28
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Jack, I never gave it much thought but now I'm going to have to make one.
Ain't trailer ownership fun?

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Old 06-06-2017, 01:39 PM   #29
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So that is a pretty big hole. What year is yours? I don't see one on my 2505C. Did
it come with that hole or did someone make it? Will be in Tahoe on Friday to see if I can find a hole. Did not see it last time and yours is pretty big.
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Old 06-06-2017, 03:19 PM   #30
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My trailer also comes out that far and partially covers the first "flap". But, like Jack, my pump sits upright and I can access it by just opening the flap by the amount I am allowed. Makes you wonder who around the factory said, " aw..just put it in sideways."

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Old 06-06-2017, 06:31 PM   #31
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The problem seems to be the with it down I cannot get to battery or hand pump. Cover is pinned down by the top sitting on it.
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:32 PM   #32
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Will give that a try to was pretty tight before. Back in Stateline on Thursday. Thanks
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:45 PM   #33
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Mine is a 2010. The hole in the pic is the way I got it. It is a little awkward to pump but it gets the job done.
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