An Alternate Way to Install the Top Raising Track Guides
 

I could not find how to write a new thread on a post. I can not raise/lower my top as the guides inside of the top are losing their screws. One front one, all screws have backed out and the bracket is loose. The center one, the screws have backed out and catching on the side. The other four seem to be good. Has anyone ever had this problem? You can not reach the screws to tighten them. My thought was to cut the screws out, take a piece of 1/8" angle iron and rivets the guide to the angle iron (the 1/8" angle iron would replace the 1/8" spacer behind the guide) and screw the angle iron to the bottom of the top section.

I've moved your post to a new thread in a section that didn't involve the hydraulic system, since it involves exterior hardware.

If I understand correctly, the guide tracks are still secure against the sides of the bottom half, but the guides themselves are coming off the top half. Normally, I think you install the guides with the top up and the tracks off, which gives just enough room to use a right angled screwdriver to install the screws. However, in your case it sounds like you've possibly got damage to the screw holes and the screws would not "set" properly anyway.

I think, rather than cutting the exposed screws off, I'd use pliers (maybe needle-nosed would be needed) to simply back the screws out. Then, I like your idea of affixing the guides to angle iron (I think I'd use aluminum) and then screwing the angle to the bottom of the top. I'm not sure rivets would work, but maybe you could fit bolts through the guides and secure them with a nut at the back. You might have to carve a bit of the top behind the nuts with something like a Dremel tool to make everything fit. If you DO use rivets, I'd back the side that is on the guide block with the appropriate washers.

I think if I ever have to replace my guide blocks, I might attach them the way you thought of here. Brilliant idea, sir!

- Jack

Instead of using rivets, I was possibly thinking of putting new bolts into the angle iron. There is a wood spacer behind the guide, so I can go up to an 1/8" think. So I would have to either use a very good thread lock or maybe tac weld the back. But trying to make notches or hollow that out would be a pain. I did get one bracket off, (the loose one). I cut the bolts off, as backing them out will not work as that won't back out far enough to pull the guide out. I need a piece of angle 2½" wide and 1½" tall for the glide and about 2 3/4" long so the bolts will actually go into the steel frame. I already put an aluminum channel on the bottom of the upper section all the way down when I redid a lot of my trailer when I got it.

Ok, you might possibly will have to have the angles custom made for this. If you can't do it, any good metal working shop would do it for a small fee I think.

If you go with steel, and you already have aluminum there, I'd put a layer of plastic tape between them to prevent metal to metal contact which could lead to galvanic corrosion.

The red thread locker is quite strong and should prevent any unscrewing.

- Jack

I had the aluminum underneath custom made, I think it was a 3" wide piece and they bent it so it was like 1" or 3/4" by 2. So I would probably cut out a piece of that so the guide piece would sit completely flat on the bottom of the top section. Otherwise, I would have to build the inside part up to make it even. If it is not too much, I might have it made from aluminum as you suggested but I will probably have to use nuts on the back. Can you use stainless steel bolts with aluminum? Cause aluminum bolts are not very strong and hard to find.

You CAN use stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts with aluminum. I don't know how much danger there is re galvanic corrosion with these materials but I suspect it is pretty low. I imagine this choice would work pretty well.

Steel for the angles could be thinner, if that is a consideration.

- Jack

I did find a piece of aluminum that was 3/32" not 1/8" and had it bent. No cost. The only cost was 8 stainless steel bolts and locking nuts for $13.00. I did not have to cut anything out from the trailer, the brackets slid right up even with the nuts on the back of the bracket. I did have to get metric as 3/4" was too short and 1" was too long. It works great, going up and down smoothly. The only problem I had was cutting the old screws out. I went through 2 carbide multi-purpose tool blades at $18.00 each. I only redid the 2 that were bad but I have the aluminum left for the other 4 when they go bad. I did find one spot where the old bolts caught on the fiberglass and tore it up. Another repair for another day. Thanks for the help and info.

Congrats on your innovative way to install the guide blocks. I'm going to "sticky" this so that it will stay at the top of this forum section. Your method seems to me to be superior in every way to the way the guide blocks were installed at the factory.

Excellent work, sir!

- Jack

I will take a picture and put it on this post as soon as I can.

Pictures

Front corner guide
Attachment 9681
Middle guide
Attachment 9682

From my years in the Navy...aluminum and stainless have a high galvanic corrosion factor and should be separated using a sealant...

Thanks, Brian - I was thinking since the steel was stainless, it would not corrode, but I have no idea how it effects aluminum. However, since it's bolts and screws going through the aluminum, I wonder if something like lithium grease or even axle grease would work to protect things (just at the points of contact)?

- Jack

It needs to be something that will not extrud out. We used a two part sealant that would cure..