Door flexing
 

I recently bought a 1999 Towlite and have a problem with the door not closing when the top is up but closes fine when the top is down. I measured the width of the opening in both the up and down positions and it is 1/2' narrower when in the top is raised. I am assuming the frame is flexing and causing this. When the top is down it rests on the supports which are only at the rear so it allows the door opening to flex open wider. What could be causing the opening to be narrower when the top is up and how can I fix it?

is the trailer level? are all the cables connected? is there an obstruction? sorry just more questions. I would think that the door would widen when up if the frame was broken. is this the lower door? have you removed any cabinets they square and support the lower walls. screws have rusted out?

I had a 1997 towlite before my 2006
I know 1996 thru 2000 towlite have wood framing in walls and 1”x1” square tubing where the wall meets the roof and wood at the bottom of the top section claded with aluminum
I had rotting wood around the door and bottom rail
Option 1
To fix the problem you would be a complete rebuild the wall so it doesn’t flex
Option 2
On the inside of the wall of the top section cover /reinforce with metal plate have a metal shop cut a wide piece10” shaped as a “n” around the door
Talk to the metal shop to figure the thickness of metal to be used
Then paint to match interior

my 99 does the same thing, at first i would put a screw jack under the frame directly in line with that side of the door but later learned to leave the stabilizer a bit loose on that corner - touching the ground but no pressure and haven't had the problem since ; kirby

re: door flexing
 

Thanks for the ideas guys. Today I cut 4 equal length 2x6 boards slightly less than the full length of the full up length and let the top down on them. I then checked and the door closed properly (with the same flex it has when in the lowered position). So I am able to get inside and measure for a steel plate as recommended to install on the inside around the door when it is in the flexed position while positioned on the 3x6 boards. That way it should be able to close completely in either the up or down position. At least that is my theory. We'll see if it works out that way!

I wonder if one of the cables on the door side should be adjusted? It may be raising one end of that side not enough or too much. When you lowered the top onto the boards, did one end hit the boards first? If so, perhaps you could shorten that end's cable which would raise that end, straightening the door opening. (Or, lengthen the other side if it's already raising that side too much).

- Jack

I am happy to report that I have fixed the problem. I had a piece of 3/16" plate steel cut in a "U" shape. I let the top down a couple of inches on the 4 pieces of 2x6 like I had planned and it flexed the frame just a little so that the door closed properly. I then put the "U" shape steel upside down over the door frame on the inside and screwed it into the steel frame across the top and down both sides of the door frame. That way it holds the door and the frame in the same relative position at all times. The steel is 5" wide all around the sides and top of the door frame. I then raised the top back fully up and removed the wooden props and tried the door. It worked just like I want it to.

What a novel idea. I'll have to keep that in mind. Beach