Rewired the Refrigerator Circuit
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As most of you know, when traveling and running the refrigerator on 12 volts, when you stop for a time you either have to turn the refrigerator off or deal with it running down the camper battery. I rewired mine so when I turn off the truck it also cuts power to the refrigerator, but it will also charge the camper battery on the road. I used a single pole double throw center off 12 volt 30 amp switch and a 30 amp 5 pin relay (really only needed a 4 pin) Not charging the camper battery would eliminate the relay. To wire I needed to cut the 12 volt wiring going to the refrigerator and add a wire to the black wire on the pigtail from the vehicle and run it into the refrigerator compartment. After cutting the refrigerator wire I added female connectors to all 3 ends. The one from the refrigerator goes on the middle of the switch and the other 2 go on the ends. The relay gets wired with solenoid positive wire going to the wire coming from the pigtail (that I added and is energized only when the key is on) and naturally the negative goes to ground. The other 2 wires from the relay go on either end of the switch with the other wires. Now while going down the road I throw the switch to travel mode and the camper battery charges and the refrigerator works. I turn the vehicle key off and it cuts power to the refrigerator and the relay so it doesn't keep the refrigerator running draining the camper battery. When I get to the campground I open the cover for the refrigerator and set the switch to camping mode and it works normally.
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Refrigerator rewire
Thanks for taking the time to post a description and the posting of pictures.
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Neat idea! Looks like you put that switch behind the fridge? I'm guessing you have an easy way to get to it. (I'd have to take off an outside panel to get to one mounted behind mine.)
- Jack |
On one of my previous tow vehicles I added a battery relay to the charging line it would automatically switch the power off when the engine was not running. It served the same purpose, without having to remember anything.
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Jack, you got me thinking I could do the same thing with 2-5 terminal relays with a simple on off switch mounted in the camper. I just may do that :D |
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- Jack |
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Maybe I'm not explaining myself well. The way I wired the tow vehicle with a relay resulted in power going to the batteries only when the TV engine (and alternator) was running. At a stop the refrigerator would continue running from the battery and the batteries would not be charged. Once I got going again the batteries started getting charged again. Regardless of the calculations, I never had a problem in 10 years of camping with two group 24 batteries. I never paid attention to the % draw-down on the batteries either. I just checked them periodically for electrolyte specific gravity; I periodically load tested them as well. I think I got 3-4 years or so from each set. This was all with 90% dry camping, no power, water, etc. I think that you should also look at your load assumptions. A refrigerator will not run constantly; so the draw should not be multiplied by the amount of time that one is stopped. Moreover, I always pre-cool the refrigerator on 110V overnight, prior to leaving on a trip. I also load it with food and drinks that are already cold. This minimizes the amount of time the refrigerator needs to run on 12V. |
When you stop for a while either shut off the DC mode, things will stay cold for a while, or if are going to be away for a while to tour a cave or something run the top up and light the gas mode. We have done this many times.
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True I did not take into account the possibility of the thermostat being met as far as temp, but even at 50% draw that's losing a lot of amps. The only difference between your way and my way is I took the camper batteries out of the loop when stopped. |
MY 2209 also has 2 batteries and if I am going to stop longer than a half hour, I raise the top which you are supposed to do anyway and I just switch to the gas mod. With 3 batteries connected, I have never had a problem.
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