Running wires from solor panel
 

I'm getting ready to install a 100 watt solar panel and controller to my 96 Towlite 216. I'm planning on putting the controller in the same compartment as the converter and fuse panel under the dinette seat. The panel will be in front of the A/C box on the roof, above the dinette.

My question is how to route the wiring between the panel and the controller? With the top going up and down, there needs to be slack, but i'd also like it out of sight. I hear the running and overhead lights are on a stretch coil, like a telephone cord, in the wall but that is probably not an option for this.

Any thoughts?

Bean, from what I can tell from your narrative, you say that your Hi-Lo is a "216" which you probably mean is a "2106." This means that the unit is 21 feet long and the model year is a 2006. The 2006 Hi-Lo is not that old; therefore, it may have been already pre-wired for a solar panel. All you then would need is the panel and the charge controller. Our 2009 Hi-Lo came with a small solar panel as an option and is enough to trickle charge our battery. Maybe someone on this forum will chime in and advise you where that pre-wiring might exist for your particular floor plan. J & R in Ohio, the company that handled Hi-Lo's warranty work, would know for sure where that wiring might be.

Dee

How would one find out if their trailer was pre-wired for solar? My unit is a 2407T and I am interested in the possibility of adding solar.

Thanks,

When I had my 97 21ft towlite I added solar, my wire loom that went from the wardrobe to the ceiling for the upper 12 volt wiring is what I used. So then I was able to fish the wiring through the ceiling to the bathroom exhaust vent and out the side of the metal frame to the panel( I did it this way so I didn't have put a hole in the roof and because of the type of construction of the ceiling in the 97 towlite I could fish the wires through it). From the wardrobe the wires went under the dinnete, through the floor to the battery box( you need to run to solar charge lines all the way to the battery) I mounted the charge controller in a see-through water proof box next to the battery. The charge controller should be close to the battery so it senses the correct battery voltage. You should also use 10gauge wire with the 100watt panel so you get a drop in voltage or amps.
Now on my 2206, it came with a factory installed 15watt 1amp panel with 18gauge wire that ran close to 40feet and the charge controller behind the refrigerator which the system never worked!!! I removed it all.
I installed a new panel, 33watt 2.3amps (a better battery maitainer solar panel). I used 10 gauge wire (went through the roof at the wire loom from the wardrobe) Ran the wire the shortage distance to the battery with the charge controller in the battery box.

This is how I mounted the panel on my 97 towlite 21ft.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f16/...netration-255/

From what I've seen on this forum before, it seems the factory panels were mounted inthe rear and the wiring went through in back by the bathroom vent. So, you might try fishing around in there. Also, given the previouspost- look for unattached wires behind the fridge.

Rick

Got my fishin' pole out. Thanks, Rick, Les!

It's a 1996 Towlite 21', I thought that was the model #, but I guess I'm mistaken. I've had the refrigerator out to wire a fan so I know there are no extra wires there.
I don't want to put the panel over the bathroom since there is a skylight right there, also I won't have enough cable, I only have 20'.
I may just run the wires though the upper cabinet then down the wall to the bench, only a couple of feet would be visible when the top is up.

Does anyone know what is under the roof skin to screw into? is it plywwod over a wood frame or foam?

Bean, if your Hi-Lo is a 1996 model, it probably is not pre-wired for solar. Sorry for the mistake; I thought the six in your model number represented 2006. Oh, well, I now know what the first three letters of the word "assume" spells.

Dee

Greg, you have the 24-foot 2007 model year Towlite, and I have the 25-foot 2009 model year Classic; they both have the same floor plan with the tip out. My dear husband says our solar charge controller is located behind the refrigerator and thinks the wiring runs in or under the floor into the bathroom wardrobe and bundled in the far left corner (as you face the bathroom) where the stink pipe goes up. Someone has kindly put the various model year Hi-Los in this forum's library. Scroll down until you find the topic and select your model year; look in your particular brochure for 2007 and find the specifications for your camper; the brochure will also show the options available for your model year, and see if solar is listed. The Hi-Lo Company certainly would make it easy to buy and add that option by pre-wiring. I tried to get the PDF to come up on my I-pad but had no luck.

Dee

Thanks, Dee! I looked at the 2007 brochure and a solar charger was standard on all the Classics and an option on all the Towlites so I'm thinking I may have the wiring already onboard. :D I'll have to go fishing!

Once you locate the factory wiring you may want to upgrade to 10gauge wire for less voltage/amp drop from the solar panel to the battery

I started installing the panel over the weekend, but ran into a snag. I'm mounting it oriented logways right behind the endcap and I felt the roof and thought I found the frame on both sides, the front two are going into the top of the cabinet fine, but when I drilled the back two, the bit punched through the aluminum skin and hit air. Isn't there plywood in the roof as well as the frame?
I'm considering taking down the ceiling panel in that area and gluing a strip of wood to the backside of the aluminum to screw into. Is that a huge job?

I may have just missed the frame by a fraction of an inch, so I'll try to feel around with a wire to see if I can hit it, does anyone have a good pic of the front roof structure on a '96 towlite?

My '81 only has a sheet of 3/16 paneling under the aluminum top. That is more than most use and yojrs may not hae that paneling there.

IMO the easiest way to access this from the inside is to see if you can get enough reach area from the seam when opened. If not you will have to use a sharp utility knife and cut the panel on one end next to the wall. Then you should have a lot of access. To reinstall glue some 1x3 wood between the frame spars and then you will have a spot to fasten the panel back to. Then use thin molding to cover this new seam and run it from front to back and perhaps on both sides to look like the factory installed these.

Rick

Thanks Slider, I did undo the screws at the seam and over the bunk. I have the thin fiberboard as well and some 1" steel bracing arched across.
I left an awl in the hole and with a telescoping mirror was able to spot the awl tip. It was right behind the brace, I missed it by an inch.
I just need to fab some new brackets to reach over an inch more and I'll be in the brace.