I found a 100w panel on Home Depot web site for $299.00. I think that's a decent price. It comes with blocking diodes and a MC 4 connector. My HI LO has the wiring to a 10 amp controller in the refer box. I can't tell what the wiring gauge size is. If anyone knows I would appreciate the information. I assume it is good for 10 amps because of the controller. The 100w panel only puts out approx. 6-7 amps peak. I also plan on mounting it to aluminum stock to the roof vent so that I don't need to put any more holes in the roof.

Johnnie

Your 100 Watt Solar Panel would be considered a "Battery Maintainer" and not capable of supplying the needs of your Hi-Lo ... assuming a you have a 100 amp/hr battery at 6 amps per hour, it will take approximately 17 hours with a bright sunny day to recharge your dead battery. Hopefully you live in Arizona! :D

I have a yr2000 model 24 classic that i purchased used a couple of years ago. It has a 15w 1 amp/hr ICP Battery Saver Pro solar panel. It has a built in blocking diode, but I can't find a charge controller anywhere. There is a 16g wire with a fuse running through the compartment behind the ref but it has no current on it.

The previous owner had all the literature for everything, and the solar panel sheet only says that a charge controller is required for 15 amps or more. So it may have been optional or someone removed mine at some point.

The control panel solar switch on the side of the refrigerator does not seem to be working.

I would like to install a new PV system, so any suggestions would be appreciated. I will need to know a) where to wire it into the power system, and b) if i install a new charge controller does the solar switch on the refrigerator become redundant?

Another question off topic of this thread is can i install a second battery in the slide out drawer holding the bat and hyd pump? It seems the extra weight may be too much.

Thanks for any suggestions you may have.

solar panel check
 

I too have the stock solar panel and would like to know what the leads should read with a multi meter. There's many wires behind the refer (accessed from outside). Think I know which is the solar wires, but would like to see if the panel is working. Then I can follow those wires to the battery. I have a stray green wire that may have come loose from a block, but I don't want to just stick it in there unless I'm sure. And, of course, there's no known Hi Lo solar wire diagram. I did find the switch on the master panel, off or on--no light! First thought, green wire--ground? Any thoughts? Feel I should clear up this matter. :confused:
Tree

Duhhhh!!!
 

Just saw the previous post from Den2!!! I bought his unit in Feb. His post answered a couple of questions, but I'm still where he left off. Any ideas? And I'm still :confused:
Tree

Hi Tree,
Hope you are enjoying the camper. If memory serves me correctly I traced the solar first to the 12v fuse panel under the bath sink. Disconnect battery and shore power it should be the only hot lug there. Then it ran directly to the battery via a red wire. I believe it ran through behind the switch panel just left of the door and had a fused link in it, but am not sure.

The factory run through the fridge and solar switch had apparently been by-passed.

My plan was to mount a charge controller to the right just inside the door since that was within 5 feet of the battery. Would involve running new wires, adding second battery, etc. and circumstances intervened that I had to shelve the project.

One thing you might consider is a portable suitcase solar unit. Renogy makes one in 100 watts (https://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-1...t-stcs100d.htm). You can just clip it to your battery and deploy the panel away from the camper, useful if you are parked under trees. It could likely be used in addition to the 15 w factory panel with a little engineering. The downside is that it is vulnerable to thievery.

I trust this has been helpful and that you have successful tinkering and many happy camping trips.

My unit came with no controller for the solar panel, just an on/off switch on the control panel. I installed a controller and wired it directly to the battery, by passing the control panel switch. As far as the illuminated switches, the lights do burn out, but the circuit they control will still function.

Bob

Den2, really good to hear from you! We're on the road this week, but I'll check out the wires as you described and see what I can come up with. My DSO thinks the suitcase system you suggested looks very interesting and it could be used at home for other applications. Price isn't bad (She'll be on amazon looking for it soon!).
Tree