Why isn't the battery charging?
 

As I said in another recent post I am new to this.

I bought the hilo mojo this spring. The battery was charged and things worked. I used it on a camping trip. No problem with having lights (the only thing I used and the water pump worked - turned it on by accident). Some kids charged their phone off of it (sigh teens can't live without their phones - went with another family) as well. Still had juice when we came back home.

I just plugged the trailer into the house for 24 hours and while everything worked with it plugged in, nothing works with it unplugged.

Have I missed some sort of adjustment or setting I need to make in order to charge the battery off of my house?

They did not make a manual for this trailer so I am guessing things are similar to the 2009 one in the library someone uploaded.

This trailer has 3 way fridge, AC, water pump, propane heater, lights. I did install an electric brake on my car for it. The wire for the break away brake got rubbed through (thus 'cut') by dragging on the road (I had one chain too low as it turns out - didn't realize that at the time) on the way home from the camping trip which isn't fixed yet.

Don't want to drag it to the RV place as they charge $120 an hour if I can figure out what the problem is. Battery is 2009. Held a charge for a long time initially.

Thanks,
Carolyn

Do the interior lights come on when plugged in to shore power? If so, your converter/charger is probably ok. If you have a volt meter check the voltage at the battery before plugging into shore power to see what you have. Then plug in and check the voltage, you should get up to 13.6 volts if charging. Leave the charger go for say 24 hours then turn off. Wait several hours to see what voltage you have at the battery. If it is good you should have 12.6 volts. If not, it is probably bad. If you ran the battery dead sometime it could be ruined. The refrigerator in 12 volt mode can do a good job of draining a battery. Take the battery to someplace like Advance Auto Parts, they will check it for you. You need to have a deep cycle battery for RV use, that is what to look for if you need a new one.

I should have added to make sure the battery cables are firmly attached to the battery and the connections are clean. Oh, and you did say that things worked when plugged in.

Hi

Thanks. I will try to find something to measure the voltage (and check to be sure everything is still clean) and also take the battery off the trailer to take it in to see if it is any good. It worked when I parked it after the trip. Battery is in a case. Haven't touched anything other than turn off all switches while it has sat.

As far as I know I have everything turned off in the trailer - all switches I can find are off so there shouldn't be a passive drain when it isn't being used.

Is there anything inside the trailer that I need to make sure isn't turned off in order for the battery to charge?

Also would the cut break away brake wire affect this in any way?

Thanks,
Carolyn

There are things like the LP leak detector that has constant draw on the battery. If you don't have a master power switch inside it is wise to disconnect the battery when not in use. As I stated yesterday, get a battery charger like the Battery Tender and hook it on. It will put a constant float charge on the battery and not harm it. Sometimes being plugged in all the time through the converter can put too much charge on the battery.

Get a multimeter at Walmart and you can check the voltages. They are easy to use, you just have to read the instructions. If you have questions you know where to ask. Equus 3300 Hands Free Digital Multimeter, Electronic Digital Multimeter, Automotive Multimeter, Equus Multimeter It can be anything similar to this one. They are a handy thing to have.

I am getting together my shopping list - both the smart charger thing you mentioned yesterday and the volt meter. I can't find anything that looks like a master switch - there are only three on/off switches that are not actually part of an appliance. As far as I can figure out one is for the water pump, one for the lights and one for the heater. The fridge and AC have on/off switches on them.

Since I have no garage it seems like it would make sense to remove the battery and take it inside to keep it trickle charged. Otherwise I'd be running the power cord into an outdoor extension cord to an unprotected from the weather plug on the outside of my house. Doesn't seem like a good idea to do that.

Thanks for your answers

Carolyn

Yep, get the battery into the garage and put the charger on it. That is your best option.

Carolyn

Where do you live? How cold has it gotten? If it has been sitting for five months or so, not charged, it could have really gotten zapped by just sitting and especially if it got cold and froze. Deep cycle batteries need some loving care to keep them functioning well. Its four years old- so a combination of not being maintained and "phantom" charges in the trailer could have done a number on it. Do what Rich is suggesting and see what you got.

Rick

Geeze RichR you got me all excited! "hands free" meter. All the ones I've ever used worked better with three hands. Never seems to be a place to set the meter where you can read it and still probe the circuit.

Jim:D

Carolyn,

When removing/installing battery cables always remove the ground cable first and reconnect it last. This prevents creating a short circuit if/when the wrench contacts both the positive terminal and metal that would otherwise be connect to the battery ground. There is an amazing amount of power packed in a 12v lead acid battery.

Jim

That's good advice. Many of us get a little careless sometimes.

This is an even better idea, albeit a bit pricey:
Fluke 233 Remote True-RMS Display Multimeter

Raul

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to take the battery off this weekend and get it checked out. Also do 2 golf cart batteries take up more space than one regular deep cycle battery? Was reading people seem to think that gives you more discharges before the battery croaks so I was thinking it might be worth the investment?

Carolyn

Carolyn

Yes, Golf cart batteries DO take up more space and there is a good chance that your battery box is not configured to hold them. Others have done it but have had to re-configure/make-a-new battery box to do so. Also- it takes TWO golf cart batteries ( 6 volts each) to equal the voltage from ONE standard deep cycle 12 bolt battery. You will get more storage capacity ( amp hours) with the golf cart batteries- but they take up more space and weight. Many of us have TWO 12 volt batteries wired parallel ( positive to positive and negative to negative) which gives us MORE amp hours but also makes sure we have some battery power if one goes dead. With two golf cart batteries you must wire them in a series ( positive to negative) to get the needed 12 volts and if one goes down the whole system goes down. I'd keep it simple for now and stay with a 12 volt or, even, two 12 volts if you have room.

Here is a great link provided by others here that you should go to and read. A great over view of how your system works:

https://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

Rick

I just found this out. I wanted to replace the two group 24 batteries in my new (to me) 2409T. Unfortunately, the 6 volt batteries are too tall.

I like 6 volt batteries because of their capacity. On my boat I have a couple of them and I can be at anchor, running the 12V refrigerator and lights, for 2-3 days.

I was looking at an easy way to get the needed height in the battery box without making a new one and having to reroute all the wires and hydraulic lines. It looks like it is possible lower the battery box by cutting the existing supports and welding new supports that allow it to sit an inch or two lower. It appears that all the cables and lines have enough slack in them to allow this. If needed, I could make the existing cable holes in the box taller. I may try doing this later.

Raul

You have to monitor the battery charge level at all times to make sure you don't discharge it below 12 volts to prevent doing permanent damage to the battery. I think if you read through the article on batteries you will see what I mean.

Thanks for the link to batteries.

Carolyn

Did you get things up and running? I hope so, it can be frustrating figuring out problems sometimes.

I didn't see it mentioned.
The battery tender will not charge a dead battery. It is for maintaining a charged battery.
I have 2 and use them for my antique motorcycle and car, and hilo, in a rotation basis.
The lights tell if it is attached correctly, and when full charge is achieved.
Excellent item.
Taking a suspect battery to a parts place for load capacity is the best, and costs nothing.
hth
steve

yes,your break away wire,not the steel thin cable, but the positive wire,if ground down probably shorted out the battery. this is hot all the time. check for bare ends and eleminat the easy problems first, also make sure that the steel wire is not pulled out of the brake disconnect block, this will apply the brakes and drain the battery very quickly

Why isn't the battery charging?
 

Look for a rocker switch right inside of the door. It's probably between the drawers and the door. Make sure it's on. If you are plugged into shore power or house power, you will probably hear the fan in the charger come on if the battery is low and the switch is on. Also check the fuses in the power converter below the A/C. Might try wiggling them (the 12 volt ones) to see if power comes on or check them and see if anything is "blown". Suggest that you keep the 12 battery and not change it to 2 6 volt batteries. I believe the Mojo used a "smart charger" and it probably won't overcharge the battery. This is going to be a simple fix... hopefully =)

THANK YOU for that specific information. With no manual (and they never made one for the Mojo) figuring it out is not so easy. Prior to this I camped in tents.

There is a switch by the door. Whatever position it is in, I will flip it the other direction and see if that works. I think I figured out the other switch is the pump back when I had power. I had thought the one by the door was lights or something.

I had found the fuses before and none looked blown, but when I plug it in again in the morning I will double check.

So since the battery is completely dead, any ideas how long it takes to completely charge if flipping the switch works (well presuming the battery isn't trashed - it did work before).

Carolyn

HI Carolyn; There are a number of questions you need to answer in order for us to help you. Has the dead battery been outside in freezing weather, this will trash it? Have you taken the battery to a auto parts store to have them test it? Have you purchased a multimeter to check both AC and DC voltages and do you know how to use it? Do all of the lights and receptacles work when plugged into house power? Do you know if the RV has both AC lights and DC lights? What city and state do you live in. There may be knowledgeable forum members living close-by who could help you. This should not be a difficult problem to work thru. I will try to send you a email or private message thru the forum. Hope this helps.

When plugged in everything works

Battery was outside but I live in only 2 hours from the gulf of mexico (in MS) so below freezing weather is rare and this winter has been especially warm I hadn't thought to disconnect the battery to bring inside. Instead I had plugged it into my house once a month - but stupidly not checking anything else to see if things were actually charging.

I have not yet bought the battery checker or taken the battery in to be checked. I had that feels like the flu but isn't the flue for 6 weeks and have just been too tired on top of working. Dealing with this and the leak where the hinge is to lift the top (have a tarp over it, someone smeared it with caulk, which is cracked and so it is leaking at those cracks. I think the solution is to find a 6" strip of something flat to attach on the uphill side - is a mojo - that will cover the downhill side, presuming it won't blow up with air catching under it and then tear it off while driving down the road) is on my to do list in the next week or so.

Carolyn

RichR

No haven't done anything about it yet. Been too busy along with have been dragging for ages with that feels like the flu but isn't disease going around... Hoping to get to it this week or next.

Carolyn

So where is the brake disconnect block? This thing has microscopic clearance under it (like 6 or 7 inches tops) and I am not sure I will fit under it very easily - not that I am big, I am not, rather it is so close to the ground - so hopefully it is within arm's reach from an edge. I called the guy who still has parts and he says they make a think to lift it several inches which I want to do since it is really easy to bottom out even entering store parking lots.

Thanks,
Carolyn

PS greater Jackson Ms area. All lights that ran off the battery run when plugged into the house so those are all DC, correct? I could plug a light into an outlet while plugged in to see if the wall plugs work.

Carolyn

Yipee it was the switch
 

Not sure if it was turning on the switch by the door or the one on the side of where the sink is (not the one that is for the fridge) - think it was the one by the door think the other one turns on the water pump - but the battery is charging!!! Yipee!. Now I need to buy one of those things to check to see if it gets high enough (had to unplug due to it starting to rain and the plug on the side of my house is not in a protected area) that I haven't trashed the battery in terms of running it to dead. And get a trickle charger. And make sure it is a smart inverter on it if I am trickle charging.

Anyone have a solar one they'd recommend to trickle charge? Also am I right in thinking that you lose a significant amount of the energy in a solar panel (eg most of it) if the sunlight isn't direct? I thought I had read even 5% of the panel in shade cut the amount of power available dramatically more than 5%.

Also anyone suggest a regular trickle charger for bringing the battery inside in the winter (mild winters here, but still that would make sense to do).

I want to thank everyone for their help. As a newbe with no manual (they didn't make one) who has never had anything like this, it makes it harder not to do something stupid/ignorant.

Carolyn

Glad it worked.
 

That switch just takes the battery out of service. With it off, you can't use it to power lights, water pump, fridge, heater etc. You also can't charge it from the built-in charger with it off. If the big power cord is not going to be plugged in for a really long time, you may want to switch the battery off as there is probably a propane detector running all the time which may pull it down a bit. I'd go with getting a digital multitester of some sort just to have if you ever need it. Harbor freight and places like Walmart should have them for less than 10 bux (7 Function Multimeter). As far as the trickle chargers and solar chargers, you may want to put the money you would spend on those into a cigar box for when that battery finally goes kaput. Remember that it's not a regular car battery. It may be called a marine battery or something similar that's made to be drawn down and recharged. Car batteries don't like that. I'd leave the battery in the box and hooked up if you are in a warmer climate. Sooner or later, you'll be taking it out and drop it on your foot and end up with a much larger bill than whatever a new battery would cost. I'd trust the on-board charger to be a smart charger that won't destroy the battery from overcharging. Keep it as simple as possible and have fun :)

If you want to use the on board charger plug the trailer into a timer after you get the battery charged up. Have the timer set to charge one hour or less per day. That way the battery will get a short daily charge and it won't get over cooked.

The battery maintainer chargers are most ideal in my opinion, they can be hooked on and plugged in and left without danger of overcharging.

If you have to invest good money in a new battery you want to make sure not to overcharge it. So the layout for a small charger may save you money in the long run. Actually, if you have a good battery, you should only have to plug in the trailer once a month for a half day or so to keep the battery up to snuff.

Battery care
 

Carolyn, Just wanted to let you know even after owing our Rv for 12 yrs. we are still learning and make an occasional goofs. Over the years we left the trailer plugged in at our house and fried the battery. Ony add distilled water to just cover the battery plates. Second battery we fried touching the terminals taking it out of a too tight storage compartment. Hubby rerouted battery to tongue. This was a bad design by HiLo. We are here to help you and answer all your questions.If you decide to store the battery in your house you can just mark your calendar for the same day each month to check your battery with the multimeter. If it tests a little low just put it on a charger. Our stays good most of the time. The guys are good with the more technical advice. Your MoJo is oh so cute!!

Battery tender
 

Here is a link for a very inexpensive method to maintain your battery once you determine it is good and is at full charge. If you look around you can usually find a coupon to get it for around $5-$6 Best money I spent on my trailer so far. I just take the battery out and keep in my garage on this tender works fine.

Good luck

Automatic Battery Charger - 12V

That is the exact one I use. You can usually find them on sale with an ad coupon for $4.99 with a limit of five or so. I bought extras in case one burned out or got stolen or something. They were cheap enough. I cut off the alligator clips and crimped a terminal lug and just attached it to the battery on the wingnut post. I'm still on my first one after about two years. Works great.

Thanks all for the suggestions
 

I appreciate all the suggestions.

Carolyn