Refridgerator problem
 

The fridge works fine on 115 vac, but I can't get it to work on 12 vdc. Anyone tell me how to test it, maybe I have the little black electrical switch in the wrong position, the one by the lift switch? I don't even know how to check to see if it has juice going to it. Many thanks in advance. We're on our way to Florida and using a cooler instead.

The "little black switch" should have no effect. The refrigerator is not on that circuit.

My only thought is that the refrigerator fuse has blown. You'll have to find your fuse box to check that. I feel fairly certain that the fridge would be fused separately from any other circuit, since it's a "high draw" item.

- Jack

Live and learn, I guess
 

I have now been told that "little black switch" has a new name: Master power switch. So far I pulled the panel off the exterior and checked those two fuses.....they're good. And I checked all the 12V fuses at the main block under the bathroom sink. They're all good and none of them are listed as "refrigerator." I'm tempted to break out the ol' power invertor and just use 120V. Anybody know if a 350 watt invertor would do the trick? When we get to Florida I am going to check the 12V wires behind the unit for power.....any suggestions?

Do check the wiring behind the refrigerator. I don't think a 350W inverter is big enough for the refrigerator either. Plus, the inverter has some power loss associated with it and you would drain your battery even faster using it.

Unless you get the 12VB working, your fallback would be propane. Some folks DO power the fridge with propane while traveling, but it's a hazard when you're at a gas station filling the fuel tank in your TV.

- Jack

The 12 volt mode is probably about 15 amps or 180 watts. The power for it may go directly to the battery and could have an inline fuse somewhere behind the fridge. Look for a blue wire from it to one of the breakers in the battery compartment. Don't confuse it with the blue wire that goes from the TV cable to the brakes.

If you find the wire and fuse, first check the fuse with a meter or continuity tester. Check for twelve volts from the battery. If good check the wire to the fridge for resistance to ground with an ohm meter, you should get some reading on it if good.

I will keep everyone informed
 

We are getting back on the road (from Maryland tonight) headed to Miami in the morning. When I get time in Florida I will take everyone's advise and keep you informed with what I find. And I promise not to let it run on propane while we drive. Again, thanks to all and a very merry Christmas!

small update
 

I have no luck fixing the fridge, but we keep it running on the road with a 750 watt inverter we found at Wal-Mart for $69.00. I ran two battery wires to the back seat of our Excursion hooked to the inverter and then an extension cord back to the fridge in the trailer. In case anyone is interested, it draws 215 watts while running and 325 watts on surge start-up. I thought about just keeping the inverter under the hood, but there is no way it can stay cool there.

I am hanging my head in shame
 

Here is the latest on the fridge repair: Yep, y'all can say "I told you so!" One of the fuses was blown, and of course it was blown so that you couldn't tell by just looking at it. It had actually separated behind the end of the fuse. It took two repairmen from our local camper service about three minutes to find this. Then they went on to explain to me that if there is no 12V to the system that neither the gas nor the 12V side will work, that the propane needs the 12V to make the spark, etc. Yes, again in my life I have learned to do more than just visually inspect a fuse. Thanks to all who tried to push me in the proper direction.

Isn't hindsight nice?

Also nice is the actual posting of final repairs as it may help another traveler down the road.

One more thing
 

Wrascal, your post reminded me of one thing both the repairmen said. It is common to blow one of those fuses if your battery on the trailer is very low. They were in agreement that mine probably blew after trying to start the fridge with the unit having sat for a long time.

This is actually a common failure for these old glass fuses. The higher the amp draw the more likely this will happen.
The thin strip in soldered on the inside to the metal end cap. 100% internal. With heat it will unsolder and cause what is called a cold solder connection.
I used to see this weekly when working on auto electrical systems in my past life. Blower motor fuses, main AC switches...

Now, you have some homework to do. That happens from heat. Heat is generated by a poor connection between the clip and fuse. Quite often this heat will weaken the spring clips that hold the fuse.
One can glass bead (think sandblasting but much easier on the metal) this to get down to pure metal. Careful use of fine sand paper like wet/dry in 220 of finer grit can do this too if you wrap it around a wood dowel.

I had to fix my 3-way earlier this week. Stupid me...it looked good. :o Ended up being a film buidup between the fuse and clip. Simple polish job and all 3 ways work again.
In the meantime you AND I need to carry some spares. Once this happens it will usually repeat over time.

Rick

Thanks, Slider. Since this fuse fix we have had no problems whatsoever. The whole episode has been a learning experience. We're leaving for Alaska for two months next Friday (Yeah, I may be rubbing it in a little) so we'll see if the fix holds for that length of time. thanks for the advice and post, by the way.