Well,

I had my weekend out with the Hilo-5th this weekend. AND I posted all my help in this thread, and I want to admit to a screwball mistake, that I think backs up my ventilation on back of fridge, theory.

Last wed, had camper into the tight spot beside house, to prepare and pack for late thurs afternoon get away. Turned the fridge on, started doin other chores, like flush water, and prep to use hot water heater 1st time since I had the hole welded in tank... checked the fridge thursday AM, and "Oh Crap" fridge at 45 degrees, freezer was perfect again. I was like dang it!

Well turns out, I close off the bottom vent (that easily removable door outside that covers the back of fridge) because of wasps, I do it with waterline insulation foam tubes cut to stuff on there. Well, that AM, I took them out of the 3 holes in back of fridge cover, and everything started to work by time to get out of town. Fridge was at 32/33 degrees.

Whew.

Now sitting here telling you all this story, I realize we got home later than I'd hoped last night, and I didnt get plugged into shore power, and my fridge vent fans are still on... D'oH! So much to remmber each time, lol.

I did something almost similar once. I turned the fridge on AC power to prepare for a camping trip but forgot to turn the vent fan on. It didn't cool worth a damn and, the heater area was, of course, incredibly hot. I was worried that I'd damaged something, but fortunately all was well once I turned the fan on.

- Jack

Have a 06 towlite with a check light on the refrigerator that keeps coming on with the trailer lowered for towing and the refrigerator running on 12 volts. the refrigerator is keeping good temperture. Is this because of the venting of heat from the refrigerator?

Mine does exactly the same thing. Check light is on anytime the thing is running on DC, but it stays cool. I didn't remember it being this way when brand new, but since nothing else seems amiss... *shrugs*

- Jack

I have the Dometic RM2554 on my HiLo. The manual states that the check light is part of the gas operation only. It illuminates if the system makes 3 attempts to light the burner and the burner fails to light. To reactivate the system turn the fridg power off then back on. This normally happens if a gas tank has been replaced and there is no gas in the gas line. After the gas line fills, the burner should light. Turning on a stove burner will help fill the line faster. If you change the mode of operation to AC or DC while the check light is on, the light will remain on until the power is turned off then on.

Except ours (at least mine) doesn't seem to quite work like that. I turn the fridge on to DC, perhaps just switch it from AC when I'm starting out on a trip, and all is well for about 10 seconds, then the "Check" light comes on. EVERY time!

I suspect when it is not on AC, it defaults to Gas even though it is already running on DC and tries to light. I guess this doesn't really hurt anything.

This also happens if it is off and is immediately turned on to the DC position.

- Jack

CHECK indicator light on frig
 

Our "check" light does come on when we unplug from the house as AC is no longer available and the control system "clicks" to make the switch to gas…if gas isn't available the "check" light displays. Ours is reset by (I believe) pressing the auto/gas button or by turning the main power off then on again.

The Dometic RM 2554 manual states if the control is switched to AC or DC operation while the CHECK indicator lamp is on, it will function properly, but the CHECK indicator lamp will not go off until the main power ON/OFF button is pressed to the OFF then ON position.

Yes, ours does seem to work just fine with the Check light on, but I've tried everything (including what you have in your manual), to make it go off when on DC and the light doesn't seem to have read the manual. (Now I see it as a "back up" indicator that the fridge has been turned on, and is working on DC.) :)

- Jack

Just put a sticker over it. :D