So my wife and I did a dummy. I accept equel blame. When we where buying our trailer and inspecting the inside, Lizard put a pot on the stove, blah blah blah and I lowered the top down without checking that one spot and didn't realize there was an iron pot sitting on the stove.

Yes, that was day one, and now we know very much that no items may be on the stoptop or counter.

So we got mostly lucky. The metel top that holds the burners and pots/ pans/ kettles got bent pretty good, but I hammered that back into shape. But the main casually was the main inlet gas line, a 3/8 copper line that comes from the floor, thought the back, in the top of the stove, and into the valves. I'm sure everyone is familiar with such, imaright? The copper line got crushed and holed, so it needs replacement.

As a mechanic, I hate solid lines in a vehicle. When the vehicle is vibrating down the road, inflexible items break first.

I'm thinking about replacing the copper gas line that starts at the floor and replace all of it with a Flexible gas line, much like one for your water heater or home stove. I don't want to use a rubber hose because rubber next to flame = ouch time. It looks like a copper-pipe-to-thread adapter, some fittings, and 4 feet of flex line is all I need. Maybe a shutoff valve.

Are there any objections?

Attached Images

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If you want a better looking stove top try J&R in OHIO.DH read your post. If you can get the right size flex line then you could adapt with the correct flare nut. Our flare nut cracked while we were on vacation. Ran to several places. Got an old timer that gave us the two parts to combine for a fix. This was at a Hardware store. Our prior owner left a pot on the stove and lowered the HiLo. Put a nice dent in the range hood. I lowered the RV with a thermos on the counter and it punched a nice hole in the paneling,the underside. DH robbed some paneling from the inside bottom of a cupboard to repair. Lastly i lowered the HiLo with half a gallon of 303 portectant on the back bumper. Cracked the jug and &50.00 worth of material poured out on the pavement. Now I never put anything on the back bumper when i am detailing it. I do learn from my bloopers!!

Bummer.... There is plenty of room to add to this lowering checklist, if needed....

https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f55...checklist-362/

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

Yes, until you get totally used to the trailer and what you have to watch out for when lowering (and even raising, if you have it covered), use a checklist! I lowered my top onto a small water pump that I'd left on the tongue and punched a hole in the plastic underside of the top half there when I was in a hurry to change campsites. Fortunately, it was pretty easy to fix, but I learned to be much more careful from that experience.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew

If you change the type of gas line
Use full stainless steel flex line if you can find it do not use any flex line that has a plastic covering on because it’s near the rear burner
If you go to a plumbing supply house and not to home improvement center you’ll have better luck
I used copper line but looped it around so it would have flex

Check out my post : flame roll out

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Les & Patricia
2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 (replaces Toyota)
2 Hobie mirage pedal drive kayaks