Would those be fusible links? They look like heavier gauge wire.

It sounds like you posted a picture, but I don't see any trace of it. In my old Nissan, when they wired in the 7-pin connector, they added an in-line fuse that, as I said was only rated for 20 Amps. When I called about it, I was told it was supposed to be 30.

At any rate, I'm not a bit familiar with the kind of fuse you're describing. I can't believe though, that they'd use a fusible link for that purpose. And, you can SEE that it's blown?

Is there any obvious way to pull the whole box? At least that way you wouldn't be mucking around with live electrical circuits. Failing that, I'd disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable before you start trying to persuade the fuse out.

- Jack

Went to the Nissan dealer today and purchased a "fuse link housing" that contains 3 fuses...one being a 30 amp towing fuse. Apparently, when one fuse blows, you must purchase the entire housing (the housing itself can be pulled out). It took the dealer service rep a while to actually know what I was talking about, also and it had to be ordered. Anyway, $19.00 later...

So, when I pick it up Thursday, I will replace the old one and see if my TV resumes charging the trailer battery. Then, I will need to figure out why it blew in the first place...I suspect it did for the reasons mentioned in this thread. Also, I am going to add another deep cell to my existing single battery.

I think adding the second battery is a good investment. It definitely reduces the chances of having a dead battery. We boondock allot, having the second battery is a real plus. If your present battery is getting old or does not check very well you should replace it also to have a matched set of batteries in equal condition.

I am going to start replacing the inside light bulbs with LED light panels, this should save on battery use in a big way. I will report on the results sometime.

Here is what I have found on my Hi Lo that may have reduced the efficiency of my refrig when running on 12V. The wiring from the TV to the battery box to the back of the refrig was correct, # 10 both hot and ground. The # 10 wires ended behind the refrig. A #12 wire aprox 8 inches long with a 20 amp fuse holder was wire nutted to the #10 12V wire and connected to the terminal strip at the refrig, with a #10 wire connected to the other side of the strip going thru a 30 amp fuse then to the relay feeding the refrig. The plastic end of the 20 amp fuse had melted from an overload but had not blown. On the ground side a short #14 wire was wire nutted to the #10 ground wire from the battery box. The #14 wire then went to the ground side of the terminal strip with a #10 wire coming off the other side to the power relay on the refrig. I removed the 20 amp fuse holder and #12 wire plus removed the #14 ground wire and hooked the #10 hot and ground to the input side of the terminal strip. I do not know if this incorrect wiring was done when the RV was built or by the previous owners. Have not had the RV out since correcting this but getting ready to leave on a 4 week trip to Nova Scotia in a couple of weeks. These smaller wires connected into a circuit requiring #10 wire would have reduced the voltage to the refrig when running on 12V.