Routine Maintenance & Service | Winterizing Required and suggested maintenance, storage and winterizing topics.
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Old 11-11-2018, 04:42 PM   #1
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Red Lodge, Montana
Posts: 5
Default blowing out supply lines

We waited too long to blow out the supply lines for winterizing. It is just below freezing. We used a heater to warm up the inside of the trailer. Then we tried blowing out the lines with air pressure but nothing came out of the sink faucet in the kitchen or the bathroom; no air or water came out. We would appreciate any suggestions.

Does this mean that water is frozen in the supply line somewhere and, if so, how can we get at it?

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Old 11-11-2018, 05:01 PM   #2
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Did you empty the hot water heater? If no, go ahead and empty it outside. Do you have a winterizing control valve system? If not, put heat on in the trailer, open all lower cabinets doors, and try air pressure again (not too much pressure). Best of luck. I'm not real knowledgeable with your problem.


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Old 11-11-2018, 05:10 PM   #3
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Location: Colorado
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Have you blown out the lines in previous years, that is, are you using a technique that has been successful in the past? Or, let us know if you need instructions.

Yes, it sounds like some line(s) is frozen. The fix is to thaw out the lines and then blow them out and winterize. You know what that means....get it out in the sun on a warm day (but one day might not get it), get it inside where the temperature is above freezing, or a trip to a warmer climate.

Good luck!
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Old 11-12-2018, 08:50 AM   #4
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Location: TX near Bay City
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Is there not some sort of non return valve on water connect on camper...that will not let air in unless its held in..seems like I been there years ago on another brand camper...
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:15 AM   #5
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Napa,CA
Posts: 867

The only thing I can think of( non return valve) is called a check valve works in one direction fully automatic installed at the city water hook up line (part of the trailer plumbing) so when the water pump pressurizes the system it does not come out of the city water hook up connection
Blowing the system out with air to clear the lines wouldn't be a problem with this valve

2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
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Old 11-29-2018, 06:18 PM   #6
Join Date: May 2013
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Don"t feel bad. I did that as well. I ran my propane heater for a day, but that didn't unfreeze all my lines. I even put a space heater underneath the fresh water tank. But that didn't work either. Fortunately, I didn't blow out any water lines, which would have been a nightmare to replace and really expensive.

What I did is call Camping World and ran it down to their shop ASAP. They put my camper into their heated garage bay and left it there for 2 days. Afterwards, they winterized my Hi-Lo with RV antifreeze.

I think they charged me approximately $250, which is a little high. But I was grateful since it could have been a lot more had my pipes burst. Also, I was afraid I couldn't properly winterize it since it was freezing outside and not enough sunshine.

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Old 11-29-2018, 06:55 PM   #7
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: cobbo
Posts: 235

Did u get it fixed?
Hilo's are all different, but similar, so I will give you my camper issues.

The water line goes behind the fridge getting to sink, and later to shower. The issue is that the back of the fridge is basically outside, outside of the heated space anyway, so is in the compartment open to outside fresh air flow. That pipe will freeze there no matter how hot it is inside the coach.

In my shower area the pipes go under the shower pan before they get to the bathroom sink. This area is not open to air circulation inside, so will be nearly as cold as the outside air, and the floor is not insulated. Good idea to at least put a vent so there can be some warm air circulate under the shower, otherwise that part will always freeze. Remove the base board/wall panel under the shower to let it thaw.

Keep cabinet doors ALL OPEN during cold weather and keep heat going. I use electric heater since Im home and can plug in. I aim the ele heater at the cabinets to be sure that colder area gets plenty of heat. this is where the pipes are too.

My hot water heater has two by-pass valves. One you can see and the other is on the back side of the pipe, but is there. Both are right at the water heater. Turn those 90 degrees (only will go one way) and that will bypass the water heater. Drain the tank. Now when you blow air in it will not be going through the water tank. Issue there is that it is 6 gallons and will absorb the blast of air going through the pipes, and until the 6 gallon tank fully fills with pressurized air to the same pressure you are putting in then the downstream pipes will not evacuate the water as efficient.

The water heater is insulated, so you probably were safe and that did not freeze. If it was not a hard freeze then maybe the pipes are all fine, they can take a little bit of freezing, just not a hard, solid, all the way through freeze.

Pour the RV antifreeze down the sink drain and the shower drain also so those do not crack. Those pipes are bigger and the frozen water will expand more than as in the small feed pipes, and more likely to crack pipe.

The one-way valve will not let air/water go into the water tank from the city water fill connection, so nothing to worry about there. That valve is part of the water pump assembly.

Good idea to drain the water pump. You can try just pumping air from an empty water tank and this will remove some of it. There will be no way to remove the water between the pump and the city water fill incoming pipe T connection. Good enough for the South, but for hard winters I want all water out. i go in and remove both inlet and outlet pipes and run pump a few seconds to vacate it. The pump is not cooled by the water, so can run dry with no damage by the way

best wishes

1997 22L
Renovation complete!
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