cable sink
 

trblandy, is this what your asking about? Could't send a pic in a PM. This is a pretty common situation and not too serious as I've seen it a hundred times. BUT, it is something to keep an eye on. My opinion.
Tree

Tree, here is my picture, similar to yours.

Tr - I think this was a fairly common problem in HiLos. The area that the cable cuts into is just wood. In my model, they had reinforced that part with a small aluminum plate, but even that got bent in on my HiLo when I tried adjusting the front cables and got the right front cable too short, so that it caused severe force in the cable when the seal on the top met the lip on the botton section.

I repaired mine using epoxy to fill the damaged area and then I added an additional plate to reinforce that part. You can see my repair in Post #5 of this thread:https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f17...l-height-1632/

In my case, the damage was caused by shortening the cables too much. But in trailers where there is NO metal plate, I'm sure it occurs over time just due to the forces involved. Adding the plate was simple, but it had the effect of shortening the cable even more, so I had to lengthen it a bit.

- Jack

Jack, Agree with you, I was assuring Trblandy with was nothing to worry about. I think if I were to correct this, I might try and imbed (rout out the wood) a piece of angle into the wood, and seal it. But I don't see this as anything to worry about. I've seen this on many of the Hi Los at the Branson rally.
Tree

Jack, thanks for sharing your knowledge, I thought that material was probably wood. I’m thinking of similar repair, loosen cable pressure, pack some epoxy in the cut area and attach a white metal plate to relieve the pressure.

Also need to adjust the cable lengths so the bulbs all meet. Hoping to get on the road in April for leisurely trip around country this year.

Just raise the top, then lower it onto 2x4s at each corner to support it. You can then simply unscrew the cable where it attaches to the top near the area to be repaired. Repair that section, then reattach the cable. You may need to lengthen the cable at the adjustment bolt to do this.

Continue, repairing any sections needed, then snug the cable(s) back up at the adjustment bolt(s) before raising it again to remove the 2x4s. You may need to do final adjustments after that.

One thing to remember, if you need to raise a corner 1/2" (as an example), you will move that adjustment bolt out 1/2". It's a 1:1 ratio between the two.

AND, I'd definitely fix this problem. Like my hernias, it will not repair itself, but it WILL get worse if you ignore it. I think it would ultimately weaken that beam, which is not good.

- Jack

Thanks for the quick refresher course. We’ve had an easy winter and I’m ready to extract the hi lo from its den in my friends barn about 5 hours west in central PA.
Surgery? Hernia sounds easy compared the my orthopedic issue. As dr gave me the steroid shot in the ac joint Friday, he said the bones need shaved. Don’t think he was talking Barbasol and Gillette Fusion!

Tr - I'm jhappy to NOT be having orthopedic problems, but, this was my FOURTH hernia repair in four years. Two of them were emergency procedures. I seem to have a pretty healthy body with a very weak gut!

- Jack

Jack's response is the best regarding advice- do NOT IGNORE THIS ISSUE. Doing so will worsen and weaken the horizontal frame, which is only 2x2 wood covered in thin sheet metal.
When I noticed this issue on my 1994 21' Fulkite, I repaired as follows:

Spend $1.00 at local Habitat For Humanity for a twin bed metal frame.

Cut sections of frame approximately 3-4" long, pre-drill holes (I used 1/4") at each outboard end and 1 in center for cable bolt to secure through, back into its original hole in horizontal frame.

Lift top, place 4 equal length 4x4 under each cornet of top, lower top until resting. I actually used 6 with 2 at each midpoint because I was paranoid.

Loosen cables one at a time until repairs are done, keeping 3 secured at all times.

Place "L" section of bedframe "reinforcement" along UNDERSIDE and INSIDE of top's horizontal frame, align center hole for cable bolt, and bolt (I used new replacement bolts for the originals, .12 cents each at Ace Hardware) through the other 2 holes into horizontal frame.

Reposition cable eyelet, replace bolt through eyelet into hole.

Repeat at other 3 corners, again 1 AT A TIME.

Essentially you're now done but note 2 factors: 1) This procedure actually forces the cable to run at more of a 90 degree angle rather than a "straight line" as it was prior to procedure because it was cutting/ gouging deeply into wood frame, and 2) because of this, the top will actually RAISE a small amount (mine was 1/2 to 5/8 inch) at each corner. I had to LOOSEN the adjusting bolt for 1 corner to allow for re-attachment. I knew the top was not perfectly square all around, and that 1 corner proved it.

Lift top, remove 4x4 supports, lower and lift carefully and slowly a few times to ensure proper operation.

Breathe easier knowing this was a good solid helpful- and necessary repair.

Open cold beer, admire work, consume beer then show wife and ensure her the top will NOT drop on her head in the middle of the night while sleeping.

* I neglected to take photos of this process but remember it clearly last fall before Labor day 2-week trip through 4 states, 2000 miles. Wife never once got her noggin bonked and let me have a couple more beers...

MT.
I can save $1, couple extra bed frames in shed. Was thinking metal could be too thick, will cut a couple to size and have them prepped to install. Hopefully the angle turning up allows clearance so the cable doesn’t rub the smooth white fiberglass walls. Make a couple out of flat steel to Have on hand. Will be happier when there aren’t deep impressions in the wood base.
Sounds like you had a great 2000 mile trip. Hopefully will be touring west this year. Reno friends just bought a place south west of Idaho Falls. Could easily spend a month touring Idaho, Wyoming and Montana. So much to see and enjoy with the Ho lo!
Thanks, Tom

You might want to use your grinder and round the sharp edge of the angle where the cable makes the bend.

The twin bedframe rails I sourced were not as thick as standard angle iron I also had on had, which was why I chose to use it. Doesn't really need to be thick, just strong to prevent cable gouging. Use steel not aluminum. The outer edge of the "L" was already rounded, like bull- nose strips used to trim door and window frames in home construction for that smooth rounded look, otherwise Richard's comment and idea above are spot-on!
Plenty of clearance between upper and lower wall halves, the thickness of the steel is less than 1/8".
Do all 4 corners, not just a couple at a time. You'll thank yourself both now and later, believe me. Your lift system will work better, and you'll likely notice less creaking when lifting to the up position.
The trip is an annual get together with my folks who live extreme southwest corner of Oregon. We each take an overnight jaunt to a favorite meeting site in Southeast part of the state for a few days, then hopscotch across parts of Oregon, Nevada, Washington, Idaho and Montana for 2 or 3 nights each location until ending up at our place in Montana's Bitterroot and Sapphire mountains where my wife and I live. We boondock nearly all the way, use a couple unimproved campgrounds only once in awhile. Installing a solar setup and converting all interior and exterior light fixtures to LED in our trailers is another wise modification we did early on years ago. It's the best time we have all year, fishing 12-15 rivers and seeing sights, building memories for a lifetime. South Central Idaho has beautiful rivers and mountains, hopefully you can visit your friends and head north to the Stanley and Challis areas experiencing the Salmon,Payette,Clearwater, Selway, and Lochsa areas.
Good luck with your corner repairs!