Caulking tip
 

I saw this in a post written by Sam Shields in response to a members question here on HTF, I think it’s a GREAT tip, so I put it here into our “Tips and tricks” area.

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A trick I use when caulking, is to spray my finger with a silicone spray before wiping up any extra caulk, then wiping the extra caulk off your finger with a paper towel is very easy. This will also give you a smoother finish.

Some people use water but I think the spray works much better. With a little caution and a light touch you can make the job look like a pro did it!
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Sam prefers using silicone caulk, he uses clear because it's hard to match all the different shades of white. He likes the DAP brand, and recommends that the outside temperature be at least 50 degrees.

I'm looking forward to trying this, last week I re-caulked part of our Hi-Lo, and boy!, that stuff is a pip to get off of your hands! :eek:

Neal

caulking tips
 

You can also use a liquid detergent,that also works very good.

And, you can use nitrile gloves. I find I'm using them for all sorts of messy jobs now. Probably, you could spray the glove finger with silicone if you like to reuse the glove like I do (I'm Scottish). :)

- Jack

caulking ideas
 

when caulking, we used to spit on our finger and smooth the bead until caulk would stick to your finger, then wipe your finger on a paper towel, then repeat the process. sounds gross but it worked. also when applying cauk in hard to reach areas, like under the air conditioner on the roof, i used a 6 inch length of 1/4" id clear tubing attached with a hose clamp to the nozzle of the caulk tube. It is harder to push the caulc out of the tube, but it saves a whole lot of time compared to removing the a/c. hopes this will help someone.

Caulking
 

I read that you can use a disposible plastic spoon to spread apply caulk. Then you just toss the spoon away. No mess on your hands. Haven't had a break in the weather to try this.

The plastic spoon method will work great on a half inch joint or greater (like a sidewalk expansion joint), I still use my fingers. For Urathanes get yourself a spray bottle (like for misting plants) and add a 1 part dish liquid and 2 parts water mixture into it. When you are caulking be sure to force the caulking onto each side when "gunning" into the joint, if you hold the gun so that the trailing side of the tip kinda pre smoothes the bead, and don't leave any holes, it can be messy coming back. Spray the caulking with the soap mixture and lightly smooth off the caulking with the finger. I like using the finger because you have pressure sensitivity in your touch as to not drag the caulking, it will leave a neater job.
Have plenty of paper towells handy, keep the tip of the caulking gun clean by ripping small pieces of paper towell, clean the tip and throw it into a waste pail, don't try to use a large rag and keep wiping with it, you'll be wearing it. Release the pressure directly after gunning will help keep the mess down also.
Just be sure that you get the caulking onto both joint surfaces or the soap will keep it from sticking.
When using silicones I don't use the soap mixture, just finger swipe it and go, while still using the paper towel practices. It's all in the gunning, keep a nice consistant smooth bead, don't overload it and it will finish nicely.
I recaulked all of my windows, used almond silicone caulking, it matched perfectly.

As an aircraft mechanic, I have worked around some nasty sealants. Soapy water and your finger really does the trick. (Spit works pretty good too. Just be careful when rewetting your fingers. Sealants doesn't do your lips much justice!) Soapy water also does well for applying decals. Squirt down the area where to want to apply the decal, then apply the decal. The soap underneath the decal makes it moveable where you can slide it around and get it placed just right. Squeege the decal and get all of the excess soap and air bubbles out. After the soapy water evaporates, your decal is adhered to the area.

But, use distilled water and just a tiny bit of dishwashing detergent. The detergent modifies the surface tension of the water, which allows better "wetting". You don't want a huge soap buildup under the decal, or probably in the caulk.

This is the technique used for applying window film too. I've used it very successfully - no bubbling at all.

- Jack

I can vouch for this idea - I've used these gloves successfully with caulking before.

If you need to touch the bead of caulk after it is applied, you're doing it wrong.

Smooth Caulking
 

Sam is the man! I just re-caulked my front window and I tried 4 different techniques:

1. Just the caulk tube and gun, applied very carefully
2. The Spit-finger
3. Silicone spray on the finger
4. WD-40 on the finger

Methods 3 and 4 were far superior to me. Real easy to clean up and get a good job first time.

I have used upward of 60 or 70 different caulks and sealants in building homes, mostly log homes, the aircraft industry, skiing industry and owning RVs since the 1960s. Most of them state on the tube or there specs to tool bead for good adhesion. Different manufactures may have different recommendations. Do read the instructions.

I have seen many request here on the forum for recommendations for the best caulking/sealants to use. My two cents. The butyl rubber tape is a great product for sealing under window, door, vent frames etc. Have also used a number of Sikaflex products and found them to be good. The best sealant I have found is LEXELL (Sashcosealants.com), look under products. This is a co-polymer rubber based sealant, NOT silicone. Where so many caulkings dry out, then crack this is a super elastomeric and resist the cracking from vibration and expansion/contraction from temperature. It sticks to most surfaces, (do NOT use on rubber roof systems) can be applied to wet surfaces and is paintable. I have never had it fail and always carry a tube in the RV. Can be bought at many good hardware stores but have never found it at Lowes or Home Depot type lumber yards. Check out their web site for the technical data. A great solvent for cleaning the surface before caulking or painting is MEK, found in most paint depts. Wipe lightly over any painted surface if you do not want to remove the paint. This is powerful stuff. The LEXELL will cost 8.00+ but is worth it

Hello
I have a question on caulking windows. Looks like I might have a small leak around the side window that also tilts out for emergency use. Wall paper had a few bubbles under and to the side of the window. I used a razor knife and made a cut in the wallpaper and the wood behind was wet. Looks to me like maybe the window caulk is bad causing the leak? Seems like I could clean out the caulk and re caulk or do most people pull out the whole window and then use the roll caulk?
Thanks
Dean

I would pull out the window and inspect. If you need to replace any of the wood, do so, but try drying it out first. If it has not rotted, drying is really all you need. A small rotted area can be repaired with a "Bondo" product you can get at HD. (I used some of this on fascia board on our home.)

Then, recaulk and reinstall the window.

- Jack

Window
 

I have the same problem with the same window. Some damage on inside and bubble on outside. It is all dry now don't know if it has already been fixed. Anyone have any Idea how long it would take two people to remove and reinstall it. Ours is in storage can not keep it parked over night. at our home. This is the last thing that needs to be done. Have been reading and husband has been fixing. Great forum don't how we would have gotten this far without it.

Removing and reinstalling window
 

Two person job. One on the inside and one on the outside. Inside person removes screws from the trim ring.Gently pry the ring away with a putty knife. Inside person goes outside to steady the window. We did this repair in the up position. You will need two ladders/stepstool and two scrapers. You will also need alcohol to clean with after all caulk is removed.Use scrapers very gently so you don't cause any further damage. Garbage bag for old caulk. Scrape off all the oldcaulk then clean area with alcohol on a rag. Bring a roll of paper towels. Get Lexell caulk at Ace Hardware about $8.00. Or do a internet search for this product. But one roll of butyl tape.Apply butyl tale around exterior skin where the window with squish it in place. We ended up going around twice. Reinstall window . Butyl tape is purchased at an RV store or search on line. Should be about $8.00 per roll. Do a google search on installing an RV window on You Tube. It will take you several hours give or take. Depends how much caulk you have to scrape(not an easy job.) I have gtaken out two om my windows on my 90 Classic and need to do the remaining two. If your inside of the window/wall is wet you leave the window out until it dries (can be left in the low position.) If your wood is rotten you must do wall repair. With the window out you can see the condition of the wall. Go home have a nice cold drink and take a shower. Relax thinking about all the $ you saved by doing it your self. Let us know how your repair came out.

Removing and repairing window.
 

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Sam,

We echo all the good wishes by others for a speedy and full recovery. The simple fact that you are able to address the forum indicates that you are well on your way!

I want to take this opportunity to thank you for the information you posted a couple of years ago regarding the removal of windows and the need to replace the factory 'goop' they placed during the construction process. After finishing the roof repairs, we pulled the Hi Lo out onto the driveway to proceed with the 2nd part of our project removing all the windows and replacing the weathered [crap] they put on at the factory.

We replaced the first window and it had very little of the factory sealant on it. The outside of the window was weathered dried, black, and broken. The 2nd window was something else! I don't think in any of the previous tasks we have done, that anything was comparable to what we encountered when we removed the window. I am attaching some pictures to show the forum what we had encountered.

First, let me say to the new owners and future manufacturers of the Hi Lo Trailer [I'm hoping you are a member of this forum and are taking notes]. The contrast between the two windows so far as the application of the sealant was unbelievable. While one side had barely any sealant on it [the side that had experienced the most damage on the interior]; The screw hole that held the cover for the window treatments had water that ran down the interior walls and bled onto the wall's surface. After we removed the window and upon inspection of the sidewall, I thankfully found there was no wood involved, just the typical metal studs and Styrofoam filler was evident. It clearly showed that there was moisture that had seeped down into the styrofoam filler from the roof [upon which I have just completed repairs] and eventually down the interior walls. After making the corrections and installing the first window, I began the process of removing the second window in the breakfast nook.

Once we had it out, what was missing from window #1, had been over- compensated on this window in this operation. Consider the difference in
the two windows; one was barely treated with the caulking goop while the other had at least three times what would have been necessary.

My neighbor is a construction manager of a large company in Wisconsin. I asked him to come over to get his opinion of the mess we had discovered. I thought it had been applied by using a caulking gun but he said it was a butyl tape. We both agreed it was not a quality job and had much more applied than what was needed. He could not believe it was still runny like it had been applied yesterday, not 7 years ago!

We got the 2nd window in before dark and tomorrow and Saturday, I will finish removing the remaining [4] windows and re-caulk them and hopefully remove any chance of interior damage from the elements.

Before we take off in a couple of weeks, I will have at least one more post to report on the repair of the cracks in the front and rear end caps, another result of the former company cutting corners and substituting plastic in place of the fiberglass end caps.

Jerry & Carol Curtis
2406 T

Just had my windows pulled and resealed. Another place to check and seal is the "rubber/vinyl flap" that runs across the top of the window glass. These strips of rubber/vinyl tend to shrink in length and create a potential water leak.

Bob

Window reseal
 

Jcurtis 95,Glad you took some pictures. What an embarassing mess on a trailer that is only six years old. After you take and put on some road miles check the trim inside screws to see if the got jared a little loose. Retighten as needed.