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Old 03-09-2016, 08:49 AM   #1
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Default city water fill location

A few months ago, Sprocket mentioned lower the top and impacting the hose connection. This got me thinking it could happen to me, but other things where a bit more important. Now that things have calmed down, I reevaluated this tidbit of info as it relates to the new "Treehouse". I relocated the city inlet to the skirt, just below the original connect point. Cost was zero cause my plumber friend has plenty of scrap pex. I needed about 14", a little Lexel and a Fosner drill bit. Total time: 24 min.
An adjustable hole saw allows me to make an exact fit block to seal and fill the old hole and cover it with white plastic. Worked for me. No broke hose fitting. Thanks for the idea sprocket!
Tree
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:57 AM   #2
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Clever idea Tree! Nice work too.

- Jack
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Old 03-09-2016, 10:21 AM   #3
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Interesting idea, Tree! A couple of questions though- hard to tell from the photo but it appears the new location of the fill is at, or perhaps even below the level of the water tank. Is that the case? If so, does it create a head of back-pressure when filling the tank?

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Old 03-09-2016, 10:45 AM   #4
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The city fill doesn't go into the tank. It just pressurizes the plumbing directly from the spigot via a hose. Thus, a pretty cool idea.

Rick
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:15 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilltool View Post
The city fill doesn't go into the tank. It just pressurizes the plumbing directly from the spigot via a hose. Thus, a pretty cool idea.

Rick
Of course, my bad! Note to self: do not post before coffee!
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Old 03-09-2016, 01:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treeclimber View Post
A few months ago, Sprocket mentioned lower the top and impacting the hose connection. This got me thinking it could happen to me, but other things where a bit more important. Now that things have calmed down, I reevaluated this tidbit of info as it relates to the new "Treehouse". I relocated the city inlet to the skirt, just below the original connect point. Cost was zero cause my plumber friend has plenty of scrap pex. I needed about 14", a little Lexel and a Fosner drill bit. Total time: 24 min.
An adjustable hole saw allows me to make an exact fit block to seal and fill the old hole and cover it with white plastic. Worked for me. No broke hose fitting. Thanks for the idea sprocket!
Tree
Clever idea Tree! I would do the same but I would probably forget the connection (sorta out of sight, outa mind)and end up driving off with a spigot trailing a hose.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilltool View Post
The city fill doesn't go into the tank. It just pressurizes the plumbing directly from the spigot via a hose. Thus, a pretty cool idea.

Rick
But, Rick - I think the city water supply DOES fill the hot water tank. I imagine there's no problem with that however.

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Old 03-09-2016, 05:49 PM   #8
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Right you are, I believe, on both counts. BTW what's that little door covering. Is that the fresh water tank fill? Mines on the front f the trailer.

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Old 03-09-2016, 08:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Right you are, I believe, on both counts. BTW what's that little door covering. Is that the fresh water tank fill? Mines on the front f the trailer.

Rick
I believe the door is the outside shower. It looks like ours.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:23 AM   #10
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Okay, the system works as before. I had thought of adding a tank fill valve from the city water connection, but I seldom use the tank, so... I'm thinking of a possible senior moment, but if I'm breaking camp and being the power is so close, I'd hope I'd disconnect BOTH at the same time. If not, before too much damage is done I'd probably hear something! I keep repair parts at hand so I can fix those dumb mistakes. Just the thought of pulling away with the H2O still running and hooked up and the damage it COULD DO, (internal flooding, fiberglass damage, etc,), made me change the location. This way it will just pull the connection out and separate a pex joint. (I HOPE!)
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:31 AM   #11
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Also note, I also did the renoites mod of adding pex tubing for the non-existent rubber bumpers as shown in the photos. They work great!
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