End cap has a stress crack on top where screws attach cap to the roof. I've used calk with little success. The crack extends out about 3 or 4 inches. Would fiberglass patch work?

You can repair with a fiberglass kit. Make sure to stop drill the crack first to keep it from walking any further.

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas

I have same issues and am thinking of removing the caps and doing a fiberglass repair from the inside. It will look better if you can do that then caulk and paint on the outside. But a lot more work.

Rick

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2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

I have removed, repaired and reinstalled both end caps using fine mesh fiberglass tape and Marine Tex (white). Almost undetectable. No additional cracking so far.

Mark

2406T

2015 Silverado 4x4 Crew

sojourner64, Mark:

Which Marine Tex product did you use? On Amazon, I see:

1. Marine Tex Epoxy Putty, White 2 oz
2. Marine Tex Mighty Repair Kit, White 14 oz
3. Marine Tex Rapid Set, 2 oz

And, could you describe the process you used? Did you apply the Marine Tex and then press the fiberglass tape into it?

Asking because I need to do something with a hairline crack in my front end cap.

Thanks

Jim, DO stop drill the crack at the end so that it won't spread further. I'd use a 3/32" or 1/8" drill bit. You can do that right now, before even removing the cap.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew

Hello Jim,

White Marine Tex, not the quick set. I used (2) 14oz kits for each end. After removing the eternabond tape over the top screws, I cleaned down to the plastic-then set the tape into the cap with acetone(be careful it softens the plastic) and applied the Marine Tex in 2 layers. I also drilled stop holes in all cracks(50) in the rear cap and used the thinnest finest mesh fiberglass tape(2") that I could find.

If you need more tips I learned along the way, just ask.

Good luck!

Thanks Mark, I understand the steps you followed and think I can do it without much problem. I only have 1 small crack, so don't think I'll need much. I recently repaired the screw holes above the cap, where the hinges attach to the trailer. I used some JB Weld because the original holes had worn our and were not holding the screws.

Thanks,
jim

Great Jim,

Not sure what you mean by "above the hinges"? When referring to the end caps - I mean the entire plastic upper sections of both ends of the trailer.

For everyone-After reading many posts of cracking issues, I think it is only a matter of time before the thin plastic fails. I reinforced the entire upper portion of the cap, all cracks, and the lower corners with mesh tape and Marine Tex - inside and out. I first used this product to repair my kayak. It is a very flexible, waterproof "bondo" that can be sanded and shaped. It's not cheap, but it beats $1500/ea. for replacement caps!

Mark:

HiLo crack.jpg

Sorry, I should have attached this photo. This is a close up of the rock guard (in the lower 2/3 of the photo) which is attached to the front cap (upper 1/3 of photo) on my Hi-Lo. The rock guard is attached to the front cap by two hinges. Both the front cap and rock guard are fiberglass on my 2008 Hi-Lo.

The hinge has vibrated over the years and miles (maybe due the instability from the visible hairline crack) so that it has worn out the screw holes in the front cap. I have repaired those screw holes with JB Weld and the hinge now seems to be tightly attached to the front cap.

However, I haven't dealt with the hairline crack, yet. I think the fiberglass patch technique that you used could be just the trick to stabilize the crack and prevent it from spreading. Of course, I'd put the fiberglass patch on the back side of the crack. On the front, I see some hairline crack fillers on Amazon that might be good. Or, maybe some clear epoxy. I also need to drill a small hole at the end of the crack to keep it from running, as Jack suggested in post #6.

So, any ideas you have would be welcomed!!

Thanks,
jim