Ruger, could you cut the skirting hiding your wheels to expose them more? That would solve your tire changing difficulties.

- Jack

Great idea, Jack. Then line the cut edge with Chrome door edge or rubber seal. Safer
Tree

You can buy the plastic edging material (it's black and I have it installed OEM around my wheel openings, the battery door and the back bumper hatch). I THINK I found some at Camping World.

Yes, you'd want to have protection from the sharp edges.

- Jack

Garry
Itried the dig out etc but the problem is the wheel is bound by the body. It hits the top of the brake drum and the inside of the body . I had to let all the air out of the tires to get them off and back onThe newer units have a cut out on the body which solves the problem. This is a 1999 and the body crosses right over the wheels. I called J&R in Ohio and they came back with the same thing had to air down and even grease the new tire going on to get it past the body/drum.

Thanks

There is no skirting it is all body but I am looking into being able to do something like a cut out there is wood just inside the outer skin that is the whole length of the body so would have to work that out. Didn't want to have to modify something like this at my age.

Ruger,

We had the same problem with our 1997 21ft Hi-Lo. Had to deflate the tires to get them on and off.

Yuck! What a horrible design!

If it were my trailer, I'd sure study it to see if I couldn't cut some of that side away. I can't believe it's "structural". And, that portion of the side only covers the wheel well, so I don't see how removing it exposes anything that shouldn't be exposed.

You would probably not have to remove much. Just enough to be able to tilt the wheel in at the top and out at the bottom, so it would get up to the lug bolts.

- Jack

I know this is a old thread, although info is good.
My 2000 26' Classic came with 2 large jacks, and the jack points are just behind the wheels with a hole in the frame to steady the jacks.
I just greased the axle bearings, it took both jacks turning each a little at a time to raise it
Although, if your on the road with dual axles, by backing or pulling forward, roll the inflated tire onto blocks, this should allow enough space, although it's best to have jacks.
Do not use the stabilizers, they will break before lifting any weight.

So, what is the proper torque on the tire lugs? I have a 2005 Hi-Lo that now needs new tires (I'm also 72 years old and clueless about vehicle specs).

You're just a baby! I'm 78. *oof*

I've never found the torque specs for my trailer's wheels. As I recall, I torque them to 90 ft-lbs. And, of course I do it in stages, moving crosswise over the spindle each time. I set them to 40, then 60-65, and then lower the tire to the ground. Finally, I set them all to 90. These are "dry torque" values. DO NOT lubricate the lugs.

If anyone has better information, I hope they'll add it here. I'm happy to be educated.

- Jack

Jack, I think your information is spot on. My 2005 27T has always been torqued to 90 when at a dealer.

The Dexter axle owners manual says the torque on 14 and 15 inch wheels should be 90 to 120 ft lbs. 13 inch wheels should be 50 to 75 ft lbs.

There you go - Thanks Jim!

- Jack