Left Front Cable Snapped
 

My left front cable just snapped about two inches from where it attaches to the underside of the top. What now? I don't know if you spice a piece on or buy a cable. But where? Any suggestions. I was planning on going camping tomorrow.

Very sorry to hear that. Unless your going camping with several strong friends, you may have to put that off. Three or four friends to lift that section while you push the "up" button, then place a proper length of 2 x 4 or two under the top is a bit chancy. You can order a cable set/kit from J & R. The top must be separated from the bottom, etc. The operation is in "search" section. If you DO order the cable set/kit, double check your seal and the guide blocks in case you need any of that stuff. Better to do it all at once. Best of luck though.

Thanks for the tips. I religiously lubricated the cables under the trailer but it didn't break under the trailer it broke a few inches above the attachment point on the top. I don't even know how you could lubricate where it broke. Do you need 2x4's or 4x4's to hold up the top?

Johnnie, Sounds like your taking care of the cables, except the highest stress area. With the top in the up position (kinda mute now), there is a CAP BOARD. Inside, you'll see it by looking at the top of the lower wall. If you visually locate the cables outside, then remove that respective cap board, you'll see the upper pulley and cable. Several times a year (between outings) I put about 6 good drops of sewing machine oil on the outboard side of the pulley and about 20 drops to the inboard side. Then I lube any cables I can see/reach, lower the top and do any cables I can see/reach again. Hope this makes sense. In order to oil that high stress area you must remove those cap boards. Hope this helps now and in the future.
Tree

Johnnie, you have to unscrew the trim piece over the top of the lower half from the inside (with the top up). There are several screws along that piece, once they are out you can lift the trim off and you have access to the upper length of cable and the pulleys that are there.

I've used 2x4s to support the top when I've adjusted the cables. I DON'T think you actually have to "separate" the two halves to insert a new cable. I think you could do it with the trim rail off to feed it down on both sides of the pulley.

Rather than several strong friends, you could also buy a farm jack to raise the unsupported corner.

I would actually make my own cable if I had to replace one, rather than buying a set that are pre-made. You can find appropriate cable and the needed fittings at places like Home Depot or ACE Hardware.

Edit: I see Treeclimber beat me to the post again. He's saying the same thing as me about access to the cable ends.

- Jack

Again thanks for all the tips. I found the trim cap. I found the 3/16 dia galvanized cable on line. But I don't know how I am going to put the fittings on the end of the cable that go through the frame behind the wheel well. Is there a modification like an eye bolt? The cable looks like it has threaded bolt attached to it(welded?). I also don't know how long the cables are. I plan on researching the proper swage tool and get some 2x4's. I have written a email to J&R but I don't even know if they sell parts. Their web site doesn't have much.

Midget Trailer in Belleville, Ohio sells cables.
https://hilotrailerparts.webs.com/apps/webstore/

I just got back from Lowes looking at cable. They have 3/16 galvanized steel cable for $0.50 per foot and 3/16 stainless steel for $0.58 per foot. I am curious, for $0.08 per foot more and given the corrosion issue, why wouldn't you use stainless steel for the lift cables? If I had a way to put the adjustment bolt on the end I would be using stainless steel. I imagine you could use a stainless steel eye bolt for adjustment but you would have to put another loop in the cable which could possibly create a weak point. The marine industry uses stainless steel everywhere. Has anyone used stainless? What's the issue besides cost?

Johnnie - you ask a very good question!

I see nothing wrong with stainless steel cable as long as it has the same tensile strength as the other cable. I believe, that the original cables in a HiLo are "aircraft grade", (used to move control surfaces) so they are of a certifiable strength and resistance to fraying.

I think, as long as you use an eyelet at the cable end to go into the eye bolt (as in this picture): [https://image.shutterstock.com/displa...le-1018971.jpg there should not be any weakening of the cable.

- Jack

cable replacement
 

This is the document on cable replacement. It is fifteen pages with some color pictures. Cable replacement in my 1998 HiLo 24TD. 3-3-2010. A member of my HiLo club had to replace his cables on two different RVS. He only had to spend about $18.00 for parts. You can do this repair!!

Johnnie - I believe this is the document sam is talking about. It's the .pdf file in the first post of this thread: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f61/...1998-24td-125/ It shows how you can use 2x4s and an ordinary floor jack to raise the corner too.

Elsewhere, I ran across some comments about using stainless cable, and it looks to me that it should work. DO check the tensile strength though.

And, if a slightly heavier cable would fit in the pulleys properly, I don't see why that would not work either.

I would also leave the old cable in place to use as a guide, removing it as you thread the new one in.

- Jack

I wonder if using 2x4's when in the up position would make the cables last basically forever. They would only have pressure on them when lifting or lowering. I do it because I don't trust the cables or their attaching points anymore and I don't want to be in there when they give up.

I thought about installing jacks like on a truck camper, would it work?

I don't know that there is added stress put on the cables when the top is up, but doesn't the safety bar prevent a catastrophic "fall" of the upper half?

Using 2x4s would certainly be an added safety measure, but they'd have to be cut so that they'd just barely squeeze in with the top fully up. And, unless you then lowered the top onto them to take all the strain off the cables, the cables would still be supporting the top unless there was "top creep". In either case, the bulb seal would no longer be meeting the "lip" at top of the bottom half.

I personally think an annual inspection and lube of the cables is a better solution. If any are frayed or rusty, they should be replaced.

And yes, I suppose jacks (something like farm jacks) at each outrigger to the top could work as well. You could possibly use four of the expandable "bars" that are sold to partition pickup truck beds that way too. You could screw them out to lengthen them enough to take most of the strain off the cables. Either of these would keep the seal between the two halves intact.

In either case, it seems an awful lot of extra junk to haul around.

- Jack

The saftey bar is only to prevent loss of hydraulic fluid from causing the top to lower, if the cable breaks or becomes disconnected the top is coming down at 9.8 m/sec squared. I raise the top, put in 4 2x4s and then lower the top onto the 2x4s taking all weight off the cables.
Truck camper lifts are really slow, and the electric ones expensive.

Up date. I ordered cables from J&R and they have been very helpful on the phone. I purchase a Farm Jack and have the top up with 2x4's supporting the top. Everything is level top and bottom. Ready to install the cables when they come. Thanks to everyone on the forum. I'll let everyone know when I am successful. The pdf on this forum has be a great tool.

CAN SOMEONE TELL ME sorry how to wrap cable around the spring on the crankshaft? wrap it in between the spring towards the end or what? top up right now. i'm lost.

I'm sorry, maestro - I must be really stupid. I can't think of what you are asking about. There are no "springs" or "crankshafts" anywhere along the cable runs in my trailer as far as I know, and I've traced their path from one end to the other during periodic maintenance.

If you could post a picture of the parts you are talking about, I'm sure it would help someone to give you an answer to your question.

- Jack

I've installed the cables and the top is going up and down. The top is level when it is up. The cables are just snug when the top is down. But when the top is up in the locked mode I hit the down switch believing that I am taking tension off the cables and would suspect that they would just be snug like when the top is down. That's not the case. The cables feel like they have a load on them even though I hit the down switch after I am in the locked mode. Is this normal?

Johnnie, the owner's manual says to hit the "down" switch when the top is up to test that the safety bar has engaged. It DOES NOT say to leave the top ON the safety bar to take tension off the cables.

You should always leave the top in the uppermost position once you have performed the "safety test". This WILL leave tension on the cables. Personally, I don't think this tension is harmful, but if you wanted, you could put jacks, 2x4s or the pickup truck bed bars at each corner to relieve some of that tension if you needed to.

Good on ya for replacing the broken cable and replacing the others!

Be prepared to make some adjustments to correct cable stretch on the new cables.

- Jack

I thought I read somewhere that it is good to take the tension off the cables when the top is up by hitting down after you hear the click. I'll be sure the raise the top after I test the safety latch. By the way, I don't want to ever do this job again. I have had to do some nasty jobs in my life and this one is up there with the best.

I would say that you keep the top in the full up position without letting it down on the safety lock. It is not designed to hold the weight of the the top full time, it's only to prevent the dropping of the top if the hydraulics leak and the top creeps down. That would come in important if you are laying in bed and the top decides to go down on you in the middle of the night. I don't believe any manual says to rest the top on the safety lock.

My manual says to lower the top to make sure the safety lock is engaged then raise the top until it stops to pressurize the hydraulic system.

As I pointed out before, when the top is up there is tension on the cables. The saftey bar is only to prevent the top from lowering if you lose hydraulic fluid, either slowly or quuckly. This is why I use the 2x4s all the time while up, you can actually take all the tension off the cables.

We are presently camping longterm in SC and wondering if we should use 2x4s on the corners to reduced tension on our cables. Once these boards are cut would you lower the unit to rest on boards? Suggestions much appreciated!

Yes, you would lower the top onto the 2x4s. I'd place the 2x4s between the "outriggers" and the top and would cut the 2x4s so that they JUST fit in with very little clearance when the top is full up. That way, when you "lower" the top, it will not move away from the seal much.

- Jack

Thanks!! We’ll copy the ones in the pictures!

I'd like to see pics.
When the cable broke, was it where the cable turns the bend under the upper half?
I ask bc I am worried that this bend could be a high stress point. I work with bicycles and on brake and shifter cables anytime there is a tight bend over something then the result is always a broken cable down the line.

Others have said it, I say again:
When the top is not resting in the down position, anywhere between slightly raised and fully raised, then there is tension on the cables. Always! Lowering the top so pressure is on the safety bar does NOTHING and involves IN NO WAY the cables. All that does is take tension off the hydraulic system, not the cable system.
The hydraulic system moves the cables. Resting the hydraulic system has zero effect on the cables, the cables are always attached to and always holding up the top unless you have fully lowered the top to the down and closed position.
The hydraulic system is 100% capable of supporting the weight of the top. Unless a pipe or valve burst it is fine to let the hydraulic system support.
All the safety bar does is ensure that if something does burst that the hydraulic ram remains in the up position, so camper does not crash down.
There is always tension on the cables.
That said, the cables can support way more weight that that roof, 5 roofs even.
Think of bridges made of cables, they are under tension for over 100 years.

2nd on removing the trim to oil the cable.
Also, do not remove the top, or lift if higher when replacing a cable, totally unnecessary. Remove the trim as stated before.

If you make a cable, bolt the loop end to the upper, then run the cable towards the other end, threading it through the pulleys.
Loop it at the frame end where it ends and is adjusted, and make sure it is the right length before making the final cut.
You will have probably used an i-bolt at the frame, and maybe a big one and had to drill out the frame hold bigger.
Show pics if you did

what about if wood support block is rotted on the right front ... how can I lift whole side

kakic63, If that's the case, you can use a piece of 2 x 4 to span the rotted area and use a farm jack to raise the right front. Of course a 4 x 4 might make you feel safer.
Tree

One snapped one wacked
 

I have one rear cable that snapped on right rear and the front one same side is bowing out and when try to lift the top even with the aid of a jack and wood on the rear one the entire piece of support wood is bowing up and the wire track piece is pushing through side of camper in front . Tried the span area with angle iron etc just to get top up ..

As to farm jack assisted lift i saw a few posts that said corners and or support beam for rear center . Why would I not put the jack in the area where the cable is . Isn’t that where it needs support ?

So to do one side I would need two farm jacks and 2x4 on corner and center of side wall and rear and front center ?

Or will the corners be enough ?


I read the pdf of cable replacement looked at pictures etc . Of course it makes sense to support the top but if 2 cables on one side are working and one cable on opposite side is wacked out and the other broken will I do damage manually jacking up the bad side one cable area at a time or is it best 2 jacks ?