Leveling your Hi-Lo
 

I am finding that leveling my 2207T can be quite a challenge. As you may know the refrigerator requires that the Hi-Lo be as level as possible for it to work properly, this is less true of newer Hi-Lo's than the older modes as the refrigerators in newer units are more tolerant of being slightly out of level. I never seem to have the exact board or rock to put under the dual axle tires to level my unit, so far I have gotten close enough for everything to function properly buy is truly a drag.

I found a device, the BAL Light Trailer Leveler which is designed for single axle trailers; they claim it eliminates the need for moving trailer onto blocks or ramps to level. It is available from PPL Motor Homes for $76.00, but I would need two of them for $156.00.

Then there is the Model 1862 tandem wheel RV Pillo Leveler. All you have to do is park the low side tires on the non-inflated RV Pillo leveler and place chock between tires on the non-inflated leveler and inflate with your 12-volt air compressor until level. Available from the manufacturer for $315.00.

Does anyone have a better solution in use?

I keep a shovel in my camper, & I place 1 inch thick (4x8 inch) boards to suit the leveling process, however sometimes it is easier to dig the high side down a little especially if you need more than 4 inches, because the trailer has a heck of a time getting up 4 inches that quickly...

What's more, if you have a single axle trailer like we do, putting one wheel way up on leveling blocks makes the whole thing unstable, since you really can't chock the wheel when it's up that high. (I know, having had it roll off the blocks once as soon as I disconnected the hitch.)

Digging out the high side is definitely the safest approach. But, I have and use the BAL Light Trailer Leveler when possible. I got mine at Camping World, and I think it was in the range of $50.

- Jack

I agree with Sting - The simplest is best. I have a slot on the a-frame where I carry 2 heavy 2 inch planks and I always have a shovel.

I have given this a lot of thought and I can not think of a reason why raising the Hi-Lo by the reinforced frame area between the axles would be any more stressful to the frame than raising the Hi-Lo by the axles (wheels). So I am experimenting with a 6 ton bottle jack (which I all ready have) and a couple blocks of 4x6. There seems to be no effect on the ability of the door to open and close, and the bottle jack seals appear to hold the weight without settling down. Any comments?

The only thing I can think of is that the loading on the frame is at a small single point rather than at the two points where your axles attach. It also seems somewhat unstable compared to rolling the tandem wheels up on leveling blocks and then using one of those expanding chocks between the wheels.

Bottom line, I don't think I'd camp with the trailer leveled that way if I had a tandem axle trailer.

- Jack

The only comment that I have is that this won't work on older Hi-Los as they have a box frame and have springs on the axle and the swing piece between the springs is in the middle. Even if you could jack in the middle on them it would effect the bottom door.
I don't see a problem on the I beam frames because for jacking up for tire removal the jack is to be put on the frame and it doesn't matter if you put it infront of front axel or behind the rear axel as the whole side goes up and both tires are off the ground. Stablity might be a problem.

I was thinking about getting those lego blocks for RV leveling... but I wanted a hard rubber kind, not the plastic kind... I don't think the plastic kind will hold up very long.

Anyone use those at all?

I've been using the same yellow ones (camping world) for years under my Class B van. The only problem I've encountered is using them on gravel without something under them. The cross sections got mashed and a few of them will not stack very well now.

DavidC,
Ditto the last entree by Atlee. I've found it's pretty easy to zero in side to side leveling by varying the height of the stack. On our rig one block on under just one tire on one side (we have tandem axles) will raise that side about 1/2". A block under each wheel on one side raises that side by about 1"...and so on. I've found leveling adjustment to be fairly predictable using interlocking stackable blocks.
As Jack he suggests, when using these interlocking blocks, especially using two or more courses, I always install a stabilizer "chock" that expands between the tires, locking them against each other (wow, they really work well!).
Jim

I've been using the "lego blocks" for years with no problems. In fact, I carry two sets with me. They take up less room than a couple of leveling boards. They also come in handy if you have a flat on the road (dual axles). You can make a ramp with them to elevate the good tire so that you can change the flat tire.

Bob

Leveling blocks
 

We also have been using "lego blocks" for years with no problems. Not even a chip or crack in the plastic. One campsite was cut in the side of a mountain and we had to use all ten of the lego blocks. I was so nervous watching hubby drive up on them. Our blocks came with a softside case and instructions for use. $ well spent.

Like Bob, we actually have two sets too. We've found the extra legos come in handy as spacers under the stabilizers on those rare occasions when, after lowering, there still exists a gap between the stabilizer pad and the ground.

Jim

Two sets of blocks are ideal and a board or two with the ends beveled are helpful when you may encounter soft ground. The beveled ends are easier to pull up on.

Glad to hear that people have been using them without issue, but after searching the web a bit, I found a good (what seems to be a good) alternative that is... Those thick rubber floor mats (ergo mats), cut 'em up into squares and use them in the same way.

Going to check out Harbor Frieght and Northern Tool this weekend and see what I can come up with...

Hope to find some made from recycled tires, should last pretty much forever...

I would think the ergo mats would be too soft. I use the lego blocks as well. I even use one under the tongue jack and never have had a problem. I also use these on the stabilizer jacks.

Camco RV - Stabilizer Jack Pads, 4pk - 44595 - Stabilizing Jacks - Camping World

Ruben, I agree. When I get the stabilizers lowered, I like (and expect) minimal trailer rock and wobble. Speculating here, but my gut tells me that rubber mat material under the stabilizer pads just wouldn't give that rock solid feel.

Jim

The "Lego blocks" are designed to interlock with each other giving more stability. Don't know how solid or reliable the mats would be.

Bob

We bought four small cutting boards at Walmart to use under the stabilizers. They cost only a few dollars total, are very tough and work great. Save yourself some money.

I have used the leggos also on my f150 with pop-up truck camper to level rear wheels. Ihave also used them constructed as a ramp which gives me a wider base in front and back of the wheel if the ground is soft. They work well. Glad to know I can switch them to my new hi-lo.

Has any Hi-Lo Forum member used any of the leveling chocks like Anderson Manufacturing's Camp Leveler ($23.95) or Rapid Jack ($49.95 at eTrailer.com); or Blayloc's EZ Jack ($69.95)? I would like to hear about your experience prior to purchasing one of them. I'm leaning toward purchasing the EZ Jack because it is rated higher and it is lighter, but alas it is the most expensive.

John,

Great question! Have to admit that these all are new to me, and now I'm curious to hear how well they work.

Jim

EZ Jack
 

Isn't the EZ Jack for changing trailer tires?

If you are looking for an easy method of changing a flat trailer tire, I would recommend Camco's Trailer Aid Plus. I bought one for our Hi Lo last August and on our first trip to Oklahoma, I used it the first time out. While in transit, I awoke one morning and had a curb side rear tire that was flat. I pulled the RV forward and lifted the rear tire off the ground, changed it out in short order and was on my way. Here is some information on it:

Trailer-Aid Plus Yellow Jack by Camco - RVWholesalers.com RV Parts

Much the same as EZ Jack but less expensive and in my view, a little easier to store. The EZ Jack shape looks irregular and may be difficult to store. We got ours off Amazon for $41 + shipping.

Jerry Curtis
2406 T

I very much recommend that when leveling that the trailer weight be on all the wheels. Taking weight off an axle places stress on the frame and you may see it when opening the door and it doesn't latch properly. All wheels should be down and the front and back axles should be setting close to level with the trailer when all leveling is done. The same goes with the stabilizers, crank them down and snug them to the ground. Do not attempt lifting the weight of the trailer or you can put things in a twist.

Rapid Jack

Andersen Trailer Jack,Wheel Chocks - AM3620
Raise your trailer quickly and effectively with the Rapid Jack from Andersen Manufacturing. Simply drive your trailer onto the jack for a quick 8" boost. Also functions as a leveler for single-axle trailers and as a trailer jack base.
Features:
Raise trailer wheels quickly and easily
Drive good wheel of double-axle trailer onto the jack to raise the other axle and change the bad tire
Level wheels of SINGLE-axle trailers :o
Place small end of jack under wheel and drive up until level
WILL NOT work as leveler for multi-axle trailers because the jack is too large to fit in between tires :(
To level multi-axle trailers, use the Rapid Camper Leveler instead (AM3011)
Use as a trailer jack base by turning the Rapid Jack on its side and resting the shaft of your trailer jack in the molded circle
Includes rubber grip to prevent slipping
Made in the USA
1-Year limited warranty


Specs:
Leveler height: 8"
Leveler length: 24"
Constructed from recycled plastic materials (100 percent)
Weight capacity: 25,000 lbs

I made leveling "pads" out of a cut up barn stall mat, 3/4" thick and made from recycled tires. I installed the levels that show the increments of how much the trailer is out of level.

A 4' x 6' x 3/4" mat was $23 at tractor supply and cut up pretty easily with a utility knife a new blade and I used a dry-wall square as a guide, and a 2x4 under the cut to "open" up the cut. They should last a little while... :D and if I have to level out the RV as much as the "pads" that I have, I should just pick a new spot...

They are rubber, so they "stick" to each other pretty good... and I have enough of them to use 1 for each of the stabilizers...

The Anderson one is for leveling a single axle trailer or changing a tire on a duel axle. Putting only one under a duel axle trailer especially the door side on a Hi-Lo would twist the frame and cause door opening or closing problems. It would be especially bad on the older box frames.

My 2302 TowLite has tandem axles, so I purchased two of the Anderson levelers. I've only been out twice since purchasing the camper in August, but these levelers work as advertised. My first trip didn't require to be leveled side to side, but my second one I needed about 1" on the door side. I just placed the levelers behind each wheel and backed onto them.

At the end, I just pulled forward off of them and pulled them out. They come in two pieces and the smaller section does indeed fit to make a full wheel chock with the larger piece.

Not sure why it is stated that two levelers will not work. They did for me. The leveler that goes in between tires might rest against the rear (or front) tire but once you start backing (or pulling) onto them it will work.

UPDATE!

When cleaning my basement, I found a diagram that must have fell out of the box that states that if they do not fit between the tires of any tandem axle trailer, up to 4 inches can be removed from the narrow end without any adverse effects on the capabilities of the levelers. This should help with those of you that were not sure about these.