I am wanting to put a rear reviewing camera on my 1987 fun chaser. I thought a good spot would be where the middle running light is at the back. I was going to remove the light and use the wiring to power the camera. When I removed the light it has two green and two white wires each ran to their prospective connection points. Why two each? Can I just remove one green(power?) and the white(ground?) and wire in my camera? Would it matter which of the two I use?

Thank in advance for any insight, it is appreciated.

Wurmz, I think the two pairs of wires you are seeing is because the running light is hooked in parallel with all the other running lights in the back end, or, it's possible one of the green/white pair is powering one side of the light bar and the other pair is powering the other side. I have not investigated my middle running light wiring, but I know the lower running lights are wired this way, with the input going first to the left light and from there to the right light, which requires the paired wires you see.

The green is the +12V input and the white is the -12V return to ground.

You should be able to connect your camera the way you are thinking. It will also be a parallel connection if you do it that way.

- Jack

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Thank you very much for the helpful explanation of the wiring. I do appreciate this and will let you know how I make out. Once again, thank you!

You'll need to "splice" into one of the wire pairs, or somehow keep the current path active through to the other side of the trailer. Note that your camera will not be active unless your running lights are on.

As an alternative, you could run a wire from the reverse light circuit pin in your trailer tow plug back under the trailer and up to the camera. Then, you could splice into any of the white ground wires for the return current path. This would activate the camera anytime you were backing up.

- Jack

Thanks again!! I ordered a new set of red and amber marker lights. Seems a though they will come on or off with light giggling. I believe the issues is due to the fixture/sockets. Lots of corrosion and rusted screws. I think I will cut back the wire to expose better less corroding, I have gone over it with my multimeter and the camper wiring seems solid. I’m going to tap/splice into the running lights so I can use it as a rear facing camera. Too many people on the road without consideration for others. Having the camera will give me peace of mind.

I’m also going to work on the water heater. It will light, heat then shut off. The pilot will go out. I’m going to replace the thermocouple and possibly the gas line. Might be able to clean it up too. The gas vale just says “ultitrol, might replace that’s a well, if I can source the right has valve. Thanks again for you assistance.

Wurmz, I can't help you with your water heater, but some other members might be able to. Several have had to fix problems with theirs, so they will have some good suggestions.

About the only thing I can say is, "Don't throw parts at it!" That's an expensive way to fix anything. You need to determine what is causing the problem and then repair/replace just that part.

- Jack

For water heater, furnace, and refrigerator help go to Youtube.com and search for My Rv Works, Inc. Dave, the man on there knows his stuff. He covers different makes and models.

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Just a thought - may be mistaken here, but I'd suspect that if you use the running light circuit for power and ground sources for a rear camera, you'll likely only have the camera active when the running lights are on (obviously not an issue if you always tow with your lights on). You may also want to check the electrical specs for the camera to make sure it doesn't draw more amps than that circuit is designed for (not likely to be the case, but...)

On the water heater, before buying a bunch of parts, check all the burner orifices for debris. Many years ago, when I was a repair tech for swimming pool heater companies the single biggest "failure to light" issue we had every year with gas heaters was spider webs in the burner orifices. The spiders would spend all winter spinning webs and cocoons inside the burners - the first time the heater was fired up, the flame would turn it all to fine charcoal and block the ports. I've found spider webs inside the water heater on our 2307C two of the last three years .

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Thanks for the information, I did as jack suggested and worked on the specific issue other than replacing a bunch of parts. I bought a new thermocouple and did as you suggested. Removed and cleaned along with some light sanding. Ran some air through the gas tube to clean it out. Put it all back together and the pilot lights and cycles. Then bigger issues set in, I cannot get hot water even though the hot water line out of the tank is hot. I read about the by pass valve. When I place the bypass valve in the off position I have not water. When I leave it open and turn the water line from the tank to open I get not water. The only way have water is to have the bypass on and the tank lines off. Makes no sense, ever line warred or gas has always been if the valve is parallel it open, perpendicular and it’s off. Then I noticed the tank was getting hot and water seeping from the coming from the drain petcock. It was hot water but not in my camper.

Wurmz, FYI - I replaced all on my turn signal and running lights on my 1988 22 foot Fun Chaser earlier this year with LED lights since the old lights had corroded connectors and also the stripped wires were dirty and not connecting cleanly. In my case, the replacement LED lights came with external wires vs the old connections. I ended up stripping the wires back a little and soldering to the new light fixture wiring with heat shrink tubing as insulation. Then after screwing the new fixtures back into place, I used Lexel to seal them up to protect against water penetration.

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Peter