Undercarriage issues.
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Got around to post season maintenance starting underneath.
Noticed that the excess fluid return tube had been chafing on the axle (pic1). Solved by lifting tube to chassis with wire & wrapping leaking area with self-fusing silicone tape. Second issue concerns me though. Although the wires are in excellent condition, the top wires going to the sides from the piston are both chafing on top of the chassis cut-outs. Only time before fraying commences & once started, it'll quickly advance, me thinks. Ideas? -------- 2204T |
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and I would think that checking the status of the adjacent pulleys for this particular cable, would be appropropriate, since something there, may have contributed to the cable getting out of alignment. There was a link from a prior posting of Neal and Bev from the date, 03/03/2010 that might be helpful also. Cable_Replacemnet_And_Adjment_1998_24TD.pdf Have fun, GoCamp |
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Thanks Guys.
One cutout is too close to the piston body to enlarge. I also noticed (2nd pic) additional chafing from wire crossing the piston outlet. I cannot be the only Hi-Lo owner with this issue, this is just shoddy workmanship. My thought is to sheath these wires with HDPE tubing (splitting first, of course). Then secure to piston body with this Amazon.com: Breeze Make-A-Clamp Stainless Steel Hose Clamp System, 1 Kit contains: 8-1/2 ft band, 3 adjustable fasteners, 1 band splice (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific. I'll post pics of results... |
In photo #2 chafing shouldn't be a problem because the cylinder and the cables are stationary with respect to each other all the time. And actually the cables don't move back and forth through the holes during raising or lowering. The only time there would be contact is when the top is down and the cables can bounce when going down the road, encasing them there would not hurt.
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Thank you Rich! A problem shared sometimes becomes no problem at all. I may do nothing unless, one day, I can't resist the urge to modify, err ... mess.:o
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Keep in mind that you should not wrap the cables with anything. This is a very high moisture area and that water will simply seep inside the wrap and it would stay wet. If you feel the need put your protectant on the steel frame instead.
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Excellent point Jim. Thank you :)
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Since the cables don't move longitudinally (and even if they did), couldn't you use neoprene-coated P-clamps to keep them from "bouncing"? Something just slightly larger than the cable itself (so it can move perhaps 1/8")?
I get these from Harbor Freight for a song: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Clamp-1AZL1?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1AYZ2_AS02?$smthumb$ |
By accident, I just stumbled upon your input, KnottyRig. Please excuse my ignorance for I was unaware of it.
RichR assured me of the non-issue & I'm unconcerned about bouncing cables. But, thanks for your input. Happy trails :) |
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