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Old 11-20-2013, 01:26 PM   #1
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Default 1986 electrical/hydraulics

Just received 1986 fun lite for a rebuild. It was up when purchased. Does anyone have or able to draw a wiring diagram for the hyd pump/soleniod etc hookup. Cannot find switch inside door. Found hole w/no switch or wires. Only (1) wire hooked to the solenoid. This can't be right can it? Thanks in advance for any help
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:02 PM   #2
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Default Welcome to the forum

I'm sure some one will post and answer your question. Do a search for pictures of what you are trying to wire up. Welcome to the forum.
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:23 PM   #3
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Here is a manual that may give you at least close information. http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...-classic-2016/ The HiLo manuals were pretty generic, there were some changes over time but for the most part they were the same. Later models had different master and lift switch configurations.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:53 PM   #4
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PapiD
I have a 1985 and I believe the same electrical.
I do NOT have a manual. But will assist you in pic's if that works for you.
That said there is a snow storm going on right now, so tomorrow at the soonest.

No- there should be 3 wires that go to the lift switch. And close by, a wire cable end also, that is the safety release cable. They need to be in close physical proximity.

steve
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Old 11-22-2013, 07:22 AM   #5
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Default Electrical lift

Thanks, Pictures would help a lot. The cable is there and a hole in the divider wall where the switch WAS. Wires not coming out under the body as far as I can see. Also if you can look at the solenoid on the pump and tell me how many wires go on it> Thanks and have a great day
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:04 PM   #6
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If you want you could possibly send pictures of the pump and wiring on the front of trailer too. Papi_d49@yahoo.com
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Old 11-22-2013, 10:58 PM   #7
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Default Lift Switch

Page 18 of the owners manual has a very clear schmatic of the switch connections.

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Old 11-23-2013, 01:26 PM   #8
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here are pics of the switch and the pump/battery box.

The 3 wires that go to the switch in my pics are blk, red, and yellow.

The black wire continues into the trlr body to the converter for power
the red wire connects to the lowering solenoid, which has only one wire coming out of it.
the yellow connects to the motor solenoid on the middle post.

The motor solenoid has 3 posts.
1. cable + from the battery, mine also shows another white wire that is the + for the emergency brake switch/system.
2. the middle post has the yellow wire from the lift switch, only wire to it.
3. the lower post is the ground cable to the motor.

pics are attached.

This should get you started.
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:29 AM   #9
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Renoites; Thanks for the pictures. They helped alot. Previous owner had pump wired directly from the battery completely bypassing the solenoid. The switch inside the trailer was laying under some insulation under the seat.
Next problem. Got pump wired correctly and it needed a little fluid to raise unit up to release safety bar. Unit would not lower. Took cover off the little cap on top of the lowering solenoid to see how the manual lowering was supposed to work. The shaft was frozen so I lubricated it and removed the valve solenoid and tapped the shaft lightly and got it to release. Worked it back and forth some and got it to move freely. The electric solenoid is inoperative. It gets power but the solenoid plunger is frozen up too. Does anyone know who may sell these or who makes them? It works good with the manual down but I'd like to fix the solenoid if possible as you need two people to let it down manually. Any Ideas appeciated.
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Old 12-07-2013, 11:56 PM   #10
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Papid
remove the front cover of the lowering solenoid by removing the large c-clip.
remove the magnet and expose wires.
behind the magnet there is a small plunger needle. That is what moves and actuates the valve for lowering. If your seal isn't leaking it can be slowly pulled out and cleaned and re-inserted.
There is a small screw on the lowering handle that is used to adjust the throw of the needle.
In the non-actuated mode this should NOT touch the needle.
When activated it moves the needle away from the magnet and into the lowering valve. If this doesn't happen it could be that the valve is dirty or non-functional.
I moved my needle in and out many times smoothly to hopefully clean out the valve, and I have not had a problem. Use the lowering of the top to create back pressure in the valve.
This is what I did and it worked.
free advice

hth
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:05 PM   #11
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Smile Lowering valve

Renoites; Thanks you have really been a lot of help. Pulled the solenoid off and was unable to find a new one anywhere. So I tore it apart and had to beat the pin (plunger) out. Everything was severely corroded and dirty. Cleaned up everything with wire brush wheel and got it moving freely, put it back together and luckily the coil was still good. It works like new. Thanks again and have a great day. Duane
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Old 06-26-2020, 03:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renoites View Post
PapiD
I have a 1985 and I believe the same electrical.
I do NOT have a manual. But will assist you in pic's if that works for you.
That said there is a snow storm going on right now, so tomorrow at the soonest.

No- there should be 3 wires that go to the lift switch. And close by, a wire cable end also, that is the safety release cable. They need to be in close physical proximity.

steve
Hello Steve
Just picked up a '85 Funlite myself. No overhead lights & no wiring diagrams... and no lights. Have you found any schematics?
Thanks!
~Rob
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