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Old 11-17-2020, 04:18 PM   #1
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Central MD
Posts: 3
Default 1994 TowLite Re-wiring

Hi all! I'm in the process of going over some of the wiring on my 1994 18TL since I found out my converter is only putting out 11.1v and I want the wiring to be solid before replacing it. When removing the chassis ground nut I noticed a yellow wire that was broken. It looks like it can reach the chassis ground point but the wire goes to my hitch connector harness/plug and when reading about the colors online yellow is either 'AUX' or 'Left Turn/Stop'. Oddly my left, right, stop lights all work fine already so I'm thinking of just leaving it cut (see pictures) and ignoring it.

I also have a 30-amp breaker that I'm guessing is for the brake-away switch and something else. The power wire on this breaker was incredibly loose. The nut was only half on so there was no way any of that stuff was working before. I'm going to order a new 30 amp automotive breaker and replace it because I broke something internally when trying to tighten the nut. I'm attaching some pics and a wiring diagram I found on here for a 1997 that looks mostly accurate. Towards the lower-left on the diagram one of the items going to the 30A breaker says "Ref" but i have no idea what that is.

Lastly, is the plastic base for these trailers something that can be purchased to replace? Mine is curled up and cracked in numerous places. I am guessing it is specific to hi-lo trailers so if that is the case I might build some kind of plywood replacement for it that is sturdier.
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Old 11-18-2020, 09:13 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 3,730

The 30A breaker is NOT something for the breakaway switch! It is one of the breakers that protects the DC circuitry in the trailer. The reference to "Ref" in the diagram is the line to the refrigerator that is hot when you are operating the refrigerator on 12V DC power when you are traveling.

The yellow line is normally the hot supply to the interior lights, not the exterior lights.

The "plastic base" you mention is the battery box under the tongue, correct? I would think you could get a replacement from J&R Repair in Ohio.

Did you buy this trailer used? It's possible a former owner did some rewiring and has mixed things up.

Where did you measure the converter output? If it was at the battery terminals, you were measuring battery voltage and your battery was discharged. You would have to disconnect the battery to see what the converter was actually delivering, and I think you might find the output was zero (0v). If so, it's likely one or two of the "hidden" inline 30A fuses inside the converter has blown. They can be easily replaced. I have a thread on this process here:

- Jack
Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew
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