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Old 10-06-2014, 01:37 PM   #1
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Default New owner/member & questions about 1994 FunLite

Hi all, new to the forum. We just received our first travel trailer (1994 FunLite). It's had some updates & has been well cared for, so looks really good for being 20 years old. We've been reading lots around here for the last week and found some good answers & great, helpful information.

But still have a couple questions:

1) how do you know the size of the trailer? Is it measured from hitch to bumper? Our title says 19.5 but the layout matches the 21' (on the 1994 brochure pdf found on this forum). The camper measures 21.5 from hitch to bumper, but the camper part is only 18'.

2) the front left upper section of the camper seems to not be on it's track. You can see space between the upper and lower sections when looking through from the inside of the camper. Also you can see where a pin is not in the receiving piece. Is there a good way to get this back on track? Should we lower it first?

ALSO: I've scanned my 1994 Owners Manual for your library, but don't seem to have access to posting in the Library.

Thanks for all of the great information found here!
Betsy & Tyson
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:51 PM   #2
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The length is determined by the entire trailer length and is reflected by the model number. The first 2 digits of the model number is the length and last 2 are the year. Mine is a 2088 so considered a 20 ft trailer although the cabin is only about 16 feet long. Can't really help with your track problem. I know there are things called glide blocks that ride up and down the track and hold the 2 pieces together. You may have a broken one if the gap is really wide. But you may just be missing a piece of the seal. Reach into the gap in the area in question and see if you feel a foam seal there. If the glide block is broken you will have to jack the top up above the bottom half in order to get to it to change it, the as you lower the top down guide the glide block back onto the track.
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Old 10-07-2014, 06:27 AM   #3
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Thank you for your help! We'll try getting it back on track.

The title with our FunLite says 195L as the model, but like I mentioned, it measures 21 and has the layout of a 21' 1994 FunLite.'.

QUESTION: where can we find the VIN on the trailer itself to see if this is the correct title for this trailer?
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Old 10-07-2014, 06:40 AM   #4
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I have an 88 and the data plate on it is a metallic sticker on the front bottom corner of the cabin to the left of the trailer tongue if you are looking at the front of the trailer. I don't remember if it has much more info on it other than the model number.
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:12 AM   #5
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Thank you! That's where it was on this one too. It has the VIN, model #, and date of manufacture.

So our VINs match (good), but the model according to the trailer is 9421ELL, which makes sense. I guess the previous owner had it wrong. He said it was a 195L because that's what the dealers' paperwork says where he bought it. I knew just by looking at it that it wasn't a 19' trailer!


Thank you all for being so helpful. We've learned so much about Hi-Los in a very short time on the forum.

Betsy & Tyson
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:09 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarburstAcres View Post
Hi all, new to the forum. We just received our first travel trailer (1994 FunLite). It's had some updates & has been well cared for, so looks really good for being 20 years old. We've been reading lots around here for the last week and found some good answers & great, helpful information.

But still have a couple questions:

1) how do you know the size of the trailer? Is it measured from hitch to bumper? Our title says 19.5 but the layout matches the 21' (on the 1994 brochure pdf found on this forum). The camper measures 21.5 from hitch to bumper, but the camper part is only 18'.

2) the front left upper section of the camper seems to not be on it's track. You can see space between the upper and lower sections when looking through from the inside of the camper. Also you can see where a pin is not in the receiving piece. Is there a good way to get this back on track? Should we lower it first?

ALSO: I've scanned my 1994 Owners Manual for your library, but don't seem to have access to posting in the Library.

Thanks for all of the great information found here!
Betsy & Tyson
Think you can post a couple of pictures of #2?
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Old 10-07-2014, 09:32 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by StarburstAcres View Post
Thank you for your help! We'll try getting it back on track.

The title with our FunLite says 195L as the model, but like I mentioned, it measures 21 and has the layout of a 21' 1994 FunLite.'.

QUESTION: where can we find the VIN on the trailer itself to see if this is the correct title for this trailer?
The VIN is also stamped on the tongue, kinda hard to find, and sometimes in one of the cabinets.
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Old 10-07-2014, 02:36 PM   #8
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Here's a photo of the side being off track. I sent my son out to take a photo of it.

This is the first I've seen it, sorry about the wrong description in the first post. I was going by second-hand info.

This is taken from the outside looking up under the top section.

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Old 10-07-2014, 02:42 PM   #9
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Yuk! I THINK you'll have to lift the top above the bottom half to get it back onto the track. I've never had to do this, so I don't know how hard it is to do.

I suspect you'll need some very strong neighbors, or, four farm jacks, which you could buy at Harbor Freight. Don't try to lift the top with the cables and lift motor.

Perhaps others here may have a better suggestion for you.

- Jack
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:14 PM   #10
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That is the glide block I was talking about. Not sure if that buildup of grease is covering a damage side or not from the photo. Remove the buildup and it should look the same as the side on the right. If it is damaged that would be why it won't stay on track. Replace the glide block and then reset it on the track. If the track is screwed to the outside of the trailer and you can get to all the screws, you can remove the track, slide it into the glide block, then replace the screws. Would be a lot easier than lifting the top off and guiding it back down onto the track.
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:20 PM   #11
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Okay, thanks! Had no idea what in the world a Guide Block was when you said that the other day. Now I know!

Unscrewing the guide sounds like a much easier task. You all are great!
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Old 10-07-2014, 04:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misfit429 View Post
That is the glide block I was talking about. Not sure if that buildup of grease is covering a damage side or not from the photo. Remove the buildup and it should look the same as the side on the right. If it is damaged that would be why it won't stay on track. Replace the glide block and then reset it on the track. If the track is screwed to the outside of the trailer and you can get to all the screws, you can remove the track, slide it into the glide block, then replace the screws. Would be a lot easier than lifting the top off and guiding it back down onto the track.
Excellent post, misfit! Since I've never had this problem, I don't know if you can get to all the screws in the track. I was under the (very possibly mistaken) impression that the top one would be covered.

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Old 10-07-2014, 04:58 PM   #13
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It may be but I don't think you will have to raise the top completely off in order to get to the top screw. I can't say for sure but taking the top completely off will require aligning all the glide blocks back on the track simultaneously. I would try sliding the track into the block first.
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:17 PM   #14
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I read somewhere on this forum where someone was able to use a 90 degree screwdriver to remove the guide block from the beam , place it over the guide rail and reattach it to the beam. they said it took some time but faster than lifting the top. Harbor freight makes a small ratching screwdriver that might work as well 8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver
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Old 10-09-2014, 07:04 AM   #15
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Thanks! That right-angle ratchet screw driver looks like a great investment. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 10-09-2014, 07:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
I read somewhere on this forum where someone was able to use a 90 degree screwdriver to remove the guide block from the beam , place it over the guide rail and reattach it to the beam. they said it took some time but faster than lifting the top. Harbor freight makes a small ratching screwdriver that might work as well 8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver
I remember that as well. I believe they used one of the simple right angle screwdrivers with phillips on one end and straight on the other. They also had to wedge the top and bottom sections far enough apart to get to the glide block.

Found it: http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f17/...placement-543/
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:42 AM   #17
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Rich, looking at that post makes me think the rails CAN be removed with the top still on the trailer. That would be all that is needed if the guide block is sound.

- Jack
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:41 PM   #18
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Harbor Freight has a small ratcheting wrench that accepts 1/4" bits. Just pop a #2 square head bit into it and you are ready to go. With the top up you can remove all the screws in the guide rail except the top screw. Lower the top a few inches and you can now get the top screw out. Now you can remove the guide rail from the trailer. Put a 2x4 in between the top and bottom of the trailer to give room to access the two screws in the guide block. Slide the guide rail into the guide block. Replace the lower screws first for alignment and get the top screw last. Just hope that the wood is not wet & rotted that the guide block screws into. This is the method we used the other week on a club member's trailer. Hope this helps.

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Old 10-16-2014, 07:30 PM   #19
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Done! It was really easy. Just took out the few screws on the guide rail, slipped it back onto the guide block (it was sound, just excess grease) and screwed the rail back on. No need to move the top of the camper at all (it was up the entire time).

Thanks for all of the suggestions and helpful hints!
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Old 10-16-2014, 11:28 PM   #20
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And, I checked my trailer with the top up and all screws in the guide rail are below the blocks, so no need for right angle screwdrivers on mine. I know this may not apply to ALL HiLos, but I'd bet it applies to many or most of them.

The two topmost screws are closer together than the others, so I think this gives the needed structural strength near the top. And, there should be little stress at the top of the guide rails anyway, since you should never move the trailer with the top up.

- Jack
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