New Member Intros Say Hello! Tell us a little about yourself and your camper; we're fairly friendly :)
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-06-2014, 01:37 PM   #1
Member
 
StarburstAcres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10
Default New owner/member & questions about 1994 FunLite

Hi all, new to the forum. We just received our first travel trailer (1994 FunLite). It's had some updates & has been well cared for, so looks really good for being 20 years old. We've been reading lots around here for the last week and found some good answers & great, helpful information.

But still have a couple questions:

1) how do you know the size of the trailer? Is it measured from hitch to bumper? Our title says 19.5 but the layout matches the 21' (on the 1994 brochure pdf found on this forum). The camper measures 21.5 from hitch to bumper, but the camper part is only 18'.

2) the front left upper section of the camper seems to not be on it's track. You can see space between the upper and lower sections when looking through from the inside of the camper. Also you can see where a pin is not in the receiving piece. Is there a good way to get this back on track? Should we lower it first?

ALSO: I've scanned my 1994 Owners Manual for your library, but don't seem to have access to posting in the Library.

Thanks for all of the great information found here!
Betsy & Tyson
__________________

__________________
1994 FunLite 21FLL
2005 F150 Lariat SuperCab
StarburstAcres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 04:51 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas City, Texas
Posts: 326
Default

The length is determined by the entire trailer length and is reflected by the model number. The first 2 digits of the model number is the length and last 2 are the year. Mine is a 2088 so considered a 20 ft trailer although the cabin is only about 16 feet long. Can't really help with your track problem. I know there are things called glide blocks that ride up and down the track and hold the 2 pieces together. You may have a broken one if the gap is really wide. But you may just be missing a piece of the seal. Reach into the gap in the area in question and see if you feel a foam seal there. If the glide block is broken you will have to jack the top up above the bottom half in order to get to it to change it, the as you lower the top down guide the glide block back onto the track.
__________________

misfit429 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 06:27 AM   #3
Member
 
StarburstAcres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10
Default

Thank you for your help! We'll try getting it back on track.

The title with our FunLite says 195L as the model, but like I mentioned, it measures 21 and has the layout of a 21' 1994 FunLite.'.

QUESTION: where can we find the VIN on the trailer itself to see if this is the correct title for this trailer?
__________________
1994 FunLite 21FLL
2005 F150 Lariat SuperCab
StarburstAcres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 06:40 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas City, Texas
Posts: 326
Default

I have an 88 and the data plate on it is a metallic sticker on the front bottom corner of the cabin to the left of the trailer tongue if you are looking at the front of the trailer. I don't remember if it has much more info on it other than the model number.
misfit429 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 07:12 AM   #5
Member
 
StarburstAcres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10
Default

Thank you! That's where it was on this one too. It has the VIN, model #, and date of manufacture.

So our VINs match (good), but the model according to the trailer is 9421ELL, which makes sense. I guess the previous owner had it wrong. He said it was a 195L because that's what the dealers' paperwork says where he bought it. I knew just by looking at it that it wasn't a 19' trailer!


Thank you all for being so helpful. We've learned so much about Hi-Los in a very short time on the forum.

Betsy & Tyson
__________________
1994 FunLite 21FLL
2005 F150 Lariat SuperCab
StarburstAcres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 09:09 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
RCREYES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,247
Send a message via Yahoo to RCREYES
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by StarburstAcres View Post
Hi all, new to the forum. We just received our first travel trailer (1994 FunLite). It's had some updates & has been well cared for, so looks really good for being 20 years old. We've been reading lots around here for the last week and found some good answers & great, helpful information.

But still have a couple questions:

1) how do you know the size of the trailer? Is it measured from hitch to bumper? Our title says 19.5 but the layout matches the 21' (on the 1994 brochure pdf found on this forum). The camper measures 21.5 from hitch to bumper, but the camper part is only 18'.

2) the front left upper section of the camper seems to not be on it's track. You can see space between the upper and lower sections when looking through from the inside of the camper. Also you can see where a pin is not in the receiving piece. Is there a good way to get this back on track? Should we lower it first?

ALSO: I've scanned my 1994 Owners Manual for your library, but don't seem to have access to posting in the Library.

Thanks for all of the great information found here!
Betsy & Tyson
Think you can post a couple of pictures of #2?
__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
RCREYES is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 09:32 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
RCREYES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Far West Texas
Posts: 1,247
Send a message via Yahoo to RCREYES
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by StarburstAcres View Post
Thank you for your help! We'll try getting it back on track.

The title with our FunLite says 195L as the model, but like I mentioned, it measures 21 and has the layout of a 21' 1994 FunLite.'.

QUESTION: where can we find the VIN on the trailer itself to see if this is the correct title for this trailer?
The VIN is also stamped on the tongue, kinda hard to find, and sometimes in one of the cabinets.
__________________
"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas
RCREYES is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 02:36 PM   #8
Member
 
StarburstAcres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10
Default

Here's a photo of the side being off track. I sent my son out to take a photo of it.

This is the first I've seen it, sorry about the wrong description in the first post. I was going by second-hand info.

This is taken from the outside looking up under the top section.

__________________
1994 FunLite 21FLL
2005 F150 Lariat SuperCab
StarburstAcres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 02:42 PM   #9
Site Team
 
JackandJanet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 3,462
Default

Yuk! I THINK you'll have to lift the top above the bottom half to get it back onto the track. I've never had to do this, so I don't know how hard it is to do.

I suspect you'll need some very strong neighbors, or, four farm jacks, which you could buy at Harbor Freight. Don't try to lift the top with the cables and lift motor.

Perhaps others here may have a better suggestion for you.

- Jack
__________________
Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew
JackandJanet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 03:14 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas City, Texas
Posts: 326
Default

That is the glide block I was talking about. Not sure if that buildup of grease is covering a damage side or not from the photo. Remove the buildup and it should look the same as the side on the right. If it is damaged that would be why it won't stay on track. Replace the glide block and then reset it on the track. If the track is screwed to the outside of the trailer and you can get to all the screws, you can remove the track, slide it into the glide block, then replace the screws. Would be a lot easier than lifting the top off and guiding it back down onto the track.
misfit429 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 03:20 PM   #11
Member
 
StarburstAcres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10
Default

Okay, thanks! Had no idea what in the world a Guide Block was when you said that the other day. Now I know!

Unscrewing the guide sounds like a much easier task. You all are great!
__________________
1994 FunLite 21FLL
2005 F150 Lariat SuperCab
StarburstAcres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 04:44 PM   #12
Site Team
 
JackandJanet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 3,462
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by misfit429 View Post
That is the glide block I was talking about. Not sure if that buildup of grease is covering a damage side or not from the photo. Remove the buildup and it should look the same as the side on the right. If it is damaged that would be why it won't stay on track. Replace the glide block and then reset it on the track. If the track is screwed to the outside of the trailer and you can get to all the screws, you can remove the track, slide it into the glide block, then replace the screws. Would be a lot easier than lifting the top off and guiding it back down onto the track.
Excellent post, misfit! Since I've never had this problem, I don't know if you can get to all the screws in the track. I was under the (very possibly mistaken) impression that the top one would be covered.

- Jack
JackandJanet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2014, 04:58 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Texas City, Texas
Posts: 326
Default

It may be but I don't think you will have to raise the top completely off in order to get to the top screw. I can't say for sure but taking the top completely off will require aligning all the glide blocks back on the track simultaneously. I would try sliding the track into the block first.
misfit429 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2014, 09:17 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
charlie b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: southeast Ohio on the PA border
Posts: 132
Default

I read somewhere on this forum where someone was able to use a 90 degree screwdriver to remove the guide block from the beam , place it over the guide rail and reattach it to the beam. they said it took some time but faster than lifting the top. Harbor freight makes a small ratching screwdriver that might work as well 8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver
__________________
Charlie B
1994 245 TD
charlie b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 07:04 AM   #15
Member
 
StarburstAcres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10
Default

Thanks! That right-angle ratchet screw driver looks like a great investment. I'll let you know how it goes.
__________________
1994 FunLite 21FLL
2005 F150 Lariat SuperCab
StarburstAcres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 07:20 AM   #16
Moderator
 
RichR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NW PA
Posts: 3,346
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
I read somewhere on this forum where someone was able to use a 90 degree screwdriver to remove the guide block from the beam , place it over the guide rail and reattach it to the beam. they said it took some time but faster than lifting the top. Harbor freight makes a small ratching screwdriver that might work as well 8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver
I remember that as well. I believe they used one of the simple right angle screwdrivers with phillips on one end and straight on the other. They also had to wedge the top and bottom sections far enough apart to get to the glide block.

Found it: http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f17/...placement-543/
__________________
My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU
RichR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 10:42 AM   #17
Site Team
 
JackandJanet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 3,462
Default

Rich, looking at that post makes me think the rails CAN be removed with the top still on the trailer. That would be all that is needed if the guide block is sound.

- Jack
JackandJanet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 11:41 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ohio North Coast
Posts: 838
Default

Harbor Freight has a small ratcheting wrench that accepts 1/4" bits. Just pop a #2 square head bit into it and you are ready to go. With the top up you can remove all the screws in the guide rail except the top screw. Lower the top a few inches and you can now get the top screw out. Now you can remove the guide rail from the trailer. Put a 2x4 in between the top and bottom of the trailer to give room to access the two screws in the guide block. Slide the guide rail into the guide block. Replace the lower screws first for alignment and get the top screw last. Just hope that the wood is not wet & rotted that the guide block screws into. This is the method we used the other week on a club member's trailer. Hope this helps.

Bob
__________________
2014 FR Heritage Glen 282RK
2013 F250 HD 6.7L Diesel
Formerly Owned: 1995 22D Fun Chaser & 2901L Classic
retiredcamper47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2014, 07:30 PM   #19
Member
 
StarburstAcres's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10
Default

Done! It was really easy. Just took out the few screws on the guide rail, slipped it back onto the guide block (it was sound, just excess grease) and screwed the rail back on. No need to move the top of the camper at all (it was up the entire time).

Thanks for all of the suggestions and helpful hints!
__________________
1994 FunLite 21FLL
2005 F150 Lariat SuperCab
StarburstAcres is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2014, 11:28 PM   #20
Site Team
 
JackandJanet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pine, AZ
Posts: 3,462
Default

And, I checked my trailer with the top up and all screws in the guide rail are below the blocks, so no need for right angle screwdrivers on mine. I know this may not apply to ALL HiLos, but I'd bet it applies to many or most of them.

The two topmost screws are closer together than the others, so I think this gives the needed structural strength near the top. And, there should be little stress at the top of the guide rails anyway, since you should never move the trailer with the top up.

- Jack
__________________

JackandJanet is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Hi-Lo Trailers Worldwide or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
HiLoTrailerForum.com Copyright 2010
×