2007 27' TOWLITE FRAME

[brit622]

NEED TO REPAIR A TEAR/CRACK ABOVE REAR WINDOW....FROM WINDOW TOP TO ROOF. CAN'T FIND A FRAMING DIAGRAM. IS THERE AN ACTUAL FRAME [VERTICALS] FROM WINDOW TOP TO ROOF FOR FIXINGS, IF SO DIMENSIONS/PLACEMENTS.
THANKS
KEITH

 

[JackandJanet]

I don't think you want to mess with the frame underneath. This is just a molded plastic cap that can be mended in place. But, you need to stop drill the crack at the lower end so that it does not continue to propagate further down. A 1/16 or 3/32" hole should do it of you drill right at the end of the crack so that the stress is spread out. I'm guessing the crack already reaches the upper edge of the cap, so there's nothing you need to do there.

Then, I'd simply fill the crack with Lexel caulk (which you can buy at ACE or online. It comes in white which will match the plastic pretty well. Don't use "silicon" caulk. it will not work as well.

If you're really ambitious, you could take the cap off by unscrewing all the screws that hold it in place, then, you could patch it in back, possibly with fiberglass. However, you still need to stop drill the bottom end of the crack or it will continue to grow.

These cracks develop in ALL the end caps on our trailers. They are fixed the way I described, ideally, before they grow as big as yours did.

- Jack

 

[brit622]

Tks for the note. Sadly its not a cap, fully molded piece runs from roof and incorporates rear window
Had a few look at it [appears a known fault] Commercial repairers not interested, ''its old material and will tear again'' Also there is no substrate [backer board] just the frp. From what I see its ceiling down to free the wall behind where the bed sits, then matting on backside. Reason I asked re framing/support is attachments if any, pressing on it feels like there isn't any

 

[JackandJanet]

Nope, there are NO attachments. And yes, it holds the rear window, just like mine. If you look at the edge of this part, where it joins the sides and top of the rest of the trailer, you'll see screws, lots of them. The cracks usually propagate from these screw attachment points.

Fix it the way I described. We call it a "cap" ( one of two end caps). You can call it "shoes", if that makes more sense. It's made either of ABS or HDPE. It's not particularly structural, except for holding the rear window and the rear lights.

- Jack

 

[brit622]

Fortunately I have a 2'' thick folder of paperwork..all from new. There's one for the panels, says it's Filon by Crane Kemlite ''Filoplated Gel Coat frp sidewall''
Been in storage since last January [out of country a lot] Went down other day to replace batteries with a view to conceiving a plan of action.
With comments made by the ''Professionals' locally re age of material, that once fixed stress would move elsewhere, I figured not moving it home but attempt repair in place [chance of exacerbating the problem a real possibility]
As an aside I have a friend [Georgia way] who had similar problem..twice. Locally there is a specialist metal fabricator. He used checker-plate aluminum formed to roof, sides and window, left original in place. Not sure how it was fixed nor the cost [actually wouldnt tell when asked]
Thanks for the replies/advice....weekend is bite the bullet time

 

[JackandJanet]

Thanks, I had not considered "Filon" as the composition of those things, but it certainly sounds like what it is. There are SO many kinds of plastics now, that it's hard to keep up. The fiberglass in it doesn't seem to stop the cracking though. However, I suspect this is why some have had success with fiberglass/bondo repairs on the reverse side.

- Jack

 

[brit622]

Kinda new it was.
My decals were shot, decided to go white and leave it. Pig to get off, elbow grease and solvents. Ran out of time so employed a detail guy. To my horror I came back and saw him using a hot gun on the gel coat. Needless to say he gave me orange peel effect [sent him down the road after strong word or two.]
Have read horror stories of Filon breaking in transit [quite cheap on Amazon] That little piece on mine [triangle shape] is so flimsy, just blows in the wind sat there..especially so as there's no Luann on backside.
I know there was a callback on that, but what possessed them thinking it was the way to go in the first place. Beggars belief

 

[sam-HILO]

I have a small crack in my fiberglass enc cap. My body shop repair person told me to drill at the top and bottom of the crack. Then he says my RV place will have the proper putty to fil the crack. I realize you are talking about a plastic cap on a Towlite vs a Classic.

 

[sam-HILO]

I read somewhere that you can use a hair dryer and a plastic scraper to remove decals. The hair dryer would be of a lower temperature.

 

[brit622]

Yeah..still leaves the adhesive tho...Tried everything, good mix of elbow grease and acetone, literally sq inch by sq inch.
On the Filon crack. Crane [maker] have a repair/maintenance section. Layer fiber matting on the back then v cut front, fill with gel-coat.
Filon offers nothing but low maintenance, good looks and a wipe to keep it so.

 

[Shaihulud2090]

Here's a thread elsewhere about repairing it Repairing Cracks in Fiberglass Filon Siding - iRV2 Forums

Some in that thread suggest epoxy gel and repair.

I queried chatgpt. Here's what it said:

Got it — you’re asking:
"What's the best way to repair a crack in Filon?"
(That’s fiberglass reinforced plastic — flexible and thin.)


Here’s the clear, real-world best method:

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How to Repair a Crack in Filon​

1. Assess the Crack​

• Small hairline crack ➔ Surface patch is usually fine.
• Large split/crack (through the material) ➔ Needs fiberglass reinforcement.

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2. Basic Supplies You'll Need:​

Item​	Purpose​
Sandpaper (80–120 grit)​	Roughen surface for bonding​
Acetone or alcohol​	Clean oil and dirt​
Fiberglass repair kit (mat + resin + hardener)​	Structural repair​
Plastic squeegee or brush​	Apply resin​
Optional: Matching gelcoat​	For nice cosmetic finish​

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3. Step-by-Step Process​

Prep:​

• Sand the area at least 2 inches around the crack — rough it up so resin sticks.
• Clean thoroughly with acetone or alcohol (no oils or dust).

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If it's a small surface crack:​

• Mix small amount of fiberglass resin + hardener.
• Paint resin over the crack generously.
• Let it cure.
• Lightly sand smooth.
• (Optional) Apply matching gelcoat to make it invisible.

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If it's a large or open crack:​

• Cut a piece of fiberglass mat a little bigger than the crack.
• Mix resin + hardener.
• Brush resin on surface.
• Press fiberglass mat over crack.
• Soak mat fully with more resin.
• Squeegee out bubbles carefully.
• Let it fully cure (may take hours).
• Sand smooth.
• (Optional) Top with gelcoat for final finish.

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4. Finishing​

• If you want it to match perfectly:
  • Spray or brush a white gelcoat over the repair after sanding smooth.
  • Buff it lightly after curing.

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Pro Tips:​

• Always overbuild slightly — go 1–2 inches wider than the crack with the mat.
• Work warm — fiberglass resin sets faster at 70–85°F.
• If cosmetic perfection matters (RV siding), practice on a scrap first.

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Summary Table:​

Crack Size​	Repair​
Hairline​	Resin coating, sand smooth​
Open Crack​	Fiberglass mat + resin reinforcement​
Cosmetic Finish​	Optional gelcoat over top​

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Products That Work Well:​

• 3M Fiberglass Repair Kit (good quality, easy for beginners)
• Evercoat Gelcoat Repair Kit (if you want a pro-level surface finish)
• Acetone wipes for fast cleanup

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Bottom Line:​

Small cracks = resin fill and sand. Big cracks = fiberglass mat patch + resin. Top with gelcoat if you want it to look like new.

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