Lift Cable Replacement Prep - Eyebolt Lengths

[JackandJanet]

That was a great fix too, Nick! Good on you! Having the plate there makes for easy access in the future if you need it too. Happy camping - hopefully, places will be open.

- Jack

 

[sam-HILO]

I know you are glad the cable replacement job is done. Had two HILOS and didn't have to do this repair. When J&R replaced my seal they reinforced the cable area with a piece of steel on the interior. That would be the Pbulb seal. Pat your self on the back. You probably saved a bill of $1300.00 at an RV shop.

 

[Red Green]

Nice job!! Looks good and took care of the problem.

 

[gsmith84]

I've been following this repair process and find it very informative. Based on what I'm finding I'm going to have to replace the entire wood support along the bottom on the driver’s side of the trailer. I'm considering added angle iron buried in the treated wood to strengthen the sidewall. One of the black rubber guide blocks is broken down the center and I'm wondering if anyone knows if replacements are available? If replacements are available, I have the means to machine one from a piece of UHMW material. Presently I have most of the Luan removed on the side exposing the tubing frame and Styrofoam. This will allow me to replace the attachment nut for the cables if needed. As I progress with this repair I'll take pictures along the way for future reference.

 

[Red Green]

Welcome to the forum gsmith84! It will be a pleasure to follow your repairs, a lot of great people on here with a lot of knowledge. They helped me tremendously throughout the process of rebuilding my camper.

 

[gsmith84]

As Nick said, the finished cable lengths are all different. They run different distances to the attachment points on the top half.

He gave excellent advice on installing those cables too!

If the storage compartment contained three new cables, I suspect one of the original cables snapped and was replaced. If that is the case. you SHOULD immediately inspect and lubricate all of the cables. Take the inside top trim off the lower half (it's held on by screws) so you can inspect the cable where it goes over the upper pulleys. This is where MOST breaks have happened. If the cable over that pulley is frayed or rusted, replace it. If not, lubricate the cable and the pulley with grease that will run down the cable before it dries. I use garage door lube.

- Jack

Jack, thanks for the advice on inspecting the cables. I pulled the inside trim off right after getting it and they look like they're in good shape. I sprayed the cables and pullies with PB Blaster and then put some lightweight oil them and each side of the pullies. Every few days I apply lightweight oil where it will run down the cables. As soon as it gets a little warmer I'm going to crawl underneath and lube the cables with a white lithium grease along with the lift cylinder rod.