lift system

[mail pouch]

The top won't come down when not connected to shore power. The battery is fully charged and there is power to the solenoid. the top won't go up when using DC power

 

[JackandJanet]

So, you are saying with shore power connected, the top goes up and down? If this is the case, then your solenoid and lift motor are both good. But, the circuitry from the battery to the lift motor is not delivering enough Amperage and you need the help of shore power to add the needed current. This could be caused by defective wiring from the battery to the lift motor, or, a battery that "seems" fully charged but is not able to handle the load put on it from the lift motor. A load test might reveal a failing battery. What is the voltage on the battery terminals when it is "resting" (no load at all) and when you try to raise the top with just the battery?

- Jack

 

[mail pouch]

The voltage is 14.3 in the resting position. I haven't done a load test yet but I will and get back to you.

 

[JackandJanet]

The voltage is 14.3 in the resting position. I haven't done a load test yet but I will and get back to you.

That voltage means you are charging the battery (connected to shore power), and, it's so high that I think your battery is worn out if you've had the trailer plugged in to shore power for a long time before you tested the voltage. A "resting" battery is one that has not been receiving a charge in the last 12 hours and is not delivering current to anything. Essentially, it is disconnected.

A fully charged, new lead-acid battery will have a resting voltage of 12.7V. 12.5V means the battery is about 70-80% charged. At 12.2V, the battery is essentially "flat", at about 50% charge and it really won't do any useful work. The converter in the trailer will reduce the charging voltage when the battery reaches a full charge so that it doesn't "boil" the battery. This is called a "float" charge state, and is usually around 13.3V for a good battery. Your 14.3 volts tells me the converter has not entered the "float" state and the battery is not able to be charged (probably has internal shorts) and that is the reason it will not raise the top.

- Jack

 

[mail pouch]

So, you are saying with shore power connected, the top goes up and down? If this is the case, then your solenoid and lift motor are both good. But, the circuitry from the battery to the lift motor is not delivering enough Amperage and you need the help of shore power to add the needed current. This could be caused by defective wiring from the battery to the lift motor, or, a battery that "seems" fully charged but is not able to handle the load put on it from the lift motor. A load test might reveal a failing battery. What is the voltage on the battery terminals when it is "resting" (no load at all) and when you try to raise the top with just the battery?

- Jack

I was prepared to do a load test but when I turned the master switch on and pushed the up and down switch it worked. Maybe the up and down switch was corroded or going bad. I have a lithium battery fully charged is 14.5.

 

[JackandJanet]

OK, it would have helped to know you have a LiFePO4 battery. Yes, I suspect the wiring in your trailer may not be solid. If the solenoid activates, then the wiring to the Up/down switch is fine and so is the switch. Also, the Master Switch circuit would be fine too. The solenoid connects the battery directly with the lift motor when it has activated, so the positive wire through the solenoid to the motor and the ground from the motor would be my next place to look.

- Jack

 

[Shaihulud2090]

The master switch wiring is accessible under the dining seat area nearest the door. The connections are pretty solid there. Since you're going to open it up and check the connections you might want to replace the switch while you're down there.

 

[mail pouch]

The master switch wiring is accessible under the dining seat area nearest the door. The connections are pretty solid there. Since you're going to open it up and check the connections you might want to replace the switch while you're down there.

my trailer is an 2004 small chance of finding an identical replacement switch.

 

[JackandJanet]

Any single-pole, double-throw switch you can fit in there would work. But, if the solenoid is activating and you have interior lights and the other things like water pump, furnace, etc. that run off 12V DC, then the Master Switch is fine. And, if the solenoid is activating when you push the Up/Down switch to Up, then it's fine too.

- Jack

 

[mail pouch]

I cleaned the ground wire in the battery box everything seems to be working I hope it stays that way when we're out. Thanks for your help and have a great day.