Lowering trailer

WhiteRiver

New Member
Joined
May 20, 2023
Posts
7
Location
Aurora, CO
I have a question about the lowering process. This set for 20yrs, roughly. I had to buy a hydraulic motor for it. The lift/lower switch was missing. Replaced. I got the trailer to lift however it will not go down.
 
I acquired 2 trailers. The first was a funlite. The second is an 89 fundraiser. Neither had the manual pump handle. Irritating but workable.
 
I don't know if this applies to your model year trailer, but mine has a "safety bar" that activates once the top is up to keep the top from accidentally lowering. However, the top can settle on to it and that binds the whole system. If that happens, the solution is to RAISE the top off the safety bar, release the bar and then lower the top.

- Jack
 
Thx for the response. When the cable release is pulled the safety raises up into a button. I am guessing it is an electric switch, like something found on an oven door, to activate the oven light.
 
As I said, RAISE the top, then pull the safety release, hold it out, then press the lowering switch.

- Jack
 
in respect to not being able to lower the 89 funchaser, the red and yellow wire were tied together. i got that fixed and in proper configuration, the switch stopped working. i have power going to solenoid but no power to switch. finding the fuse box on this trailer is not obvious. i am thinking a blown fuse.
 
I'm having a great deal of trouble understanding your posts. They're all over the place and you don't seem to have tried my suggestions. Good luck.

- Jack
 
well I do not know about yours but on our 2808 classic behind the panel where the switches is at I have a fuse in there and it blew because the pull cable was positioned wrong and shorted out the fuse. for me to get to it I have to remove the panel where storage is in a cabinet . Iwas told to bypass it jump the solenoid post and it will raise ( if the battery is good )
 
well I do not know about yours but on our 2808 classic behind the panel where the switches is at I have a fuse in there and it blew because the pull cable was positioned wrong and shorted out the fuse. for me to get to it I have to remove the panel where storage is in a cabinet . Iwas told to bypass it jump the solenoid post and it will raise ( if the battery is good )
His top is UP - it will not lower.

- Jack
 
yep and when our fuse blew behind that panel it was up a little and would not go up or down. called Joel at Midget RV and he informed me about the fuse and also to jump the 2 wires on the solenoid.
I did the jumper and it all worked and then removed the shelve panel to ccess the fuse. His fuse maybe somewhere else I do not know his model. I never understood why needed power to lower it . I actually installed a jumper wire permanent and is in a place accepable if need to do it again. However I also changed the routing on the cable as whoever installed the switches and the cable it was that the cable went over and above the switches and when the plastic housing that the cable went through wore though the cable fell onto the switches and shorted it out.
 
OK, understand your post now. Electricity is needed to open the lowering valve. It's not a lot of power, but the circuit still needs protection.

- Jack
 

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