Towing, Hitching and Tow Vehicles Discussions about tow vehicles, tow systems, hitching, leveling, jacks and more.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:13 PM   #11
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There are plenty of road tests out there by professional drivers that show things like stopping distances and emergency handling of all vehicles. Even the best 2500 series trucks are worse thend the very worst 1500 series and way worse then the average car.
The Ford may have claimed the highest tow capacity that year but as you pointed out it doesn't jive well with payload. You could get a 1500 Ram those years with over 3000 pounds of payload capacity. So even towing 10,000 pounds with 1500 pounds of hitch weight and gear and passengers still keeps you in specs.

I bought into the 2500 diesel hype and bought a 2004 GMC Duramax. It was fine but a total waste anytime but towing. So it sat months on end unused except to tow. It was so uncomfortable the ride unless loaded. It also never got anywhere near the fuel economy people bragged about, no where near 20mpg not towing (which the Hemi comes close). I got rid of a 2003 1500 Ram to get it with was great. After dropping the 2500 I went back to a 2008 Chrysler Aspen with is even better day to day then both pickups and still tows like a dream.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:29 PM   #12
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OK. To the OP, see what a Ram or GMC (equipped the way you want it actually weighs) and compare that to the GVWR. If you have enough wiggle room, consider one of those vehicles.

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Old 03-08-2016, 05:15 AM   #13
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"A 1500 pickup hasn't been referred to a 1/2 ton for probably 30 years" This coming from a minivan owner.....kind Sir, you are close to having to turn in your man-card. In minivan circles I have no idea how a 1500 might be referred, but in the world of pickups, a 1500 is still a 1/2 ton wherever you go. Yes, I am having a little fun at your expense, but if you go back and read some of your statements you'll see that the long-time,, "in the know" members here are having a hard time unloading on you.
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
"A 1500 pickup hasn't been referred to a 1/2 ton for probably 30 years" This coming from a minivan owner.....kind Sir, you are close to having to turn in your man-card. In minivan circles I have no idea how a 1500 might be referred, but in the world of pickups, a 1500 is still a 1/2 ton wherever you go. Yes, I am having a little fun at your expense, but if you go back and read some of your statements you'll see that the long-time,, "in the know" members here are having a hard time unloading on you.
Don't try and turn this into a presidential hand size argument. If you did read my posts you see I used to drive a 2004 GMC crew cab long bed 4x4 with a Duramax. As far as I can tell I'm the only one on this thread with 2500 vs 1500 experience. Minivans are awesome BTW and anybody who gets their identity from the car they drive has much bigger problems in life.
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Old 03-08-2016, 12:06 PM   #15
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I hesitate to respond. Nobody wants to start a fight. So let me say this- Yes, a "1/2" ton or "1500" size vehicle can likely handle the trailer in question. Actual tongue weight will be a factor as will how much gear you want to haul as will what year the vehicles was manufactured seeing as, as we have all seen, the payload capacity built into most of them have changed over the years. Everyone has now stated their case and the information has been enlightening. Thanks.

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Old 03-08-2016, 06:53 PM   #16
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Gonna toss my hat into this mudfest.

YES, a vehicle with a MAX tow capacity of 5000lbs CAN tow a 5000lb trailer...HOWEVER, would you want to be at your max capacity ALL THE TIME when towing?

Would I recommend a vehicle which can do the job at it's maximum limit? No. Hell, I towed a 6000lb trailer across country using a Honda Ridgeline (5000lb max cap, with only 250HP) - so I know from stupid. (That's the ONLY time that truck will see more than about 2500 lbs on a trailer - between the mountains here and lack of engine, it's just not fun).

I'd recommend a tow vehicle that is at between 60-80% capacity when EVERYTHING is loaded. That includes fuel in the vehicle, gear in trailer, people and food in vehicle, etc, etc.

Towing at capacity is seriously not fun, and frankly dangerous, even more so for anyone who is *asking* about towing (i.e. lacking experience).

Just because a vehicle *can* tow a certain capacity doesn't mean I'd *recommend* that vehicle.

What I'd recommend is to find a vehicle that strikes a balance between the capacity required for towing, but isn't unusable when not towing.

How many miles/how many days you plan on towing? Across town twice a year? Get the minimum vehicle necessary. Thousand miles a month from May through Oct? Get a LOT more vehicle - something where it will be at less than 80% capacity when actually towing.

Why am I saying to keep the loading so low? Ease of driving and safety. More capacity you have (vs what you're towing), the better you can respond to less-than-ideal circumstances (traffic, accidents, sudden stops, avoiding stuff in the road, etc).
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:36 PM   #17
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Hersbird
is your Chrysler Aspen a 4.7 or a 5.7 ?
I tow our 21ft classic Hi-lo with Jeep Grand Cherokee and it has a Dodge 5.2 engine, it has no problem pulling the trailer aside from the fact that suv have shorter wheelbase than trucks so that can be a factor.
I think most newer trucks are built with frames and engines strong enough to pull just about any hi-lo model.
if I had a 2500 diesel truck I will be more into pulling 5th wheel campers.
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Old 03-08-2016, 10:51 PM   #18
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Hersbird
is your Chrysler Aspen a 4.7 or a 5.7 ?
I tow our 21ft classic Hi-lo with Jeep Grand Cherokee and it has a Dodge 5.2 engine, it has no problem pulling the trailer aside from the fact that suv have shorter wheelbase than trucks so that can be a factor.
I think most newer trucks are built with frames and engines strong enough to pull just about any hi-lo model.
if I had a 2500 diesel truck I will be more into pulling 5th wheel campers.
It's a 5.7 and rated for 8750 pounds with the 3.92 rear and trailer tow package. It has a factory electronic trailer anti sway built in to the stability control but I have never had it kick in before. It will alternate applying individual front brakes when it detects heavy trailer sway. It has plenty of power for the 22 I have, normally stays in overdrive and even will go into 4 cylinder mode sometimes on the level ground if you keep it under 65. That gives 14+mpg. I used to have a 93 Dakota with the 5.2 but never had anything to tow back then. I tried towing a 22' pontoon a short distance with my 95 Grand Cherokee but it only had the 4.0 six and 170,000 tired miles that really strained the motor, it could hardly get out of 2nd gear. The same boat we had to move and launch one time with a 2000 Grand Caravan an it actually towed better then the Jeep, it had the 3.8 and a factory tow package with a load leveling rear suspension. We bought the Duramax so we could haul a big Lance slide in camper and tow the pontoon at the same time. The pontoon motor died and outboards are ridiculously expensive so we sold the whole setup. I have had the Aspen and Tow-lite a little over a year now. The Aspen has actually been loaned out 1/2 of that time to 3 different families at church who have had car problems. I get stuck in my old Subaru Forester because nobody ever knows how to drive a stick LOL! Oh and the Forester is a adequate tow rig for our 3 man boat or our Jetski. Love going on a fishing trip with my son-in-law and getting 30 mpg.
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:52 PM   #19
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I am very familiar with the 4.0 GC I had a 99 model, it had relatively strong engine, but around 175k they start having transmission problems if they are not maintained well. I am also familiar with the Subaru cars, strange 4 cylinder (like Porsche) but did timing belt/water pump for a friend of ours and couldn't believe how easy it was, but you are right, you can't beat 30 mpg.
I didn't realize the 5.7 Aspen switches to 4 cylinder mode, is there a switch to enable/disable it ?
most of the time if I am towing the camper below 50 mph I turn off the overdrive switch so it revs a little higher but I think its better for the transmission, I don't know if it is true or not, but a lot of mechanics recommend that.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:01 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnottyRig View Post
Gonna toss my hat into this mudfest.

YES, a vehicle with a MAX tow capacity of 5000lbs CAN tow a 5000lb trailer...HOWEVER, would you want to be at your max capacity ALL THE TIME when towing?

Would I recommend a vehicle which can do the job at it's maximum limit? No. Hell, I towed a 6000lb trailer across country using a Honda Ridgeline (5000lb max cap, with only 250HP) - so I know from stupid. (That's the ONLY time that truck will see more than about 2500 lbs on a trailer - between the mountains here and lack of engine, it's just not fun).

I'd recommend a tow vehicle that is at between 60-80% capacity when EVERYTHING is loaded. That includes fuel in the vehicle, gear in trailer, people and food in vehicle, etc, etc.

Towing at capacity is seriously not fun, and frankly dangerous, even more so for anyone who is *asking* about towing (i.e. lacking experience).

Just because a vehicle *can* tow a certain capacity doesn't mean I'd *recommend* that vehicle.

What I'd recommend is to find a vehicle that strikes a balance between the capacity required for towing, but isn't unusable when not towing.

How many miles/how many days you plan on towing? Across town twice a year? Get the minimum vehicle necessary. Thousand miles a month from May through Oct? Get a LOT more vehicle - something where it will be at less than 80% capacity when actually towing.

Why am I saying to keep the loading so low? Ease of driving and safety. More capacity you have (vs what you're towing), the better you can respond to less-than-ideal circumstances (traffic, accidents, sudden stops, avoiding stuff in the road, etc).
I have to agree with your statements and I have seen similar "rules of thumb" in other forums. That has been one of my guides for quite some time.
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