How to measure for size?
 

I ran across a 1985 Fun Chaser listed as a 25 but it does not look that size. The owner says the tag says 25 but does not appear to be that box size either.
If I measure the box, will I get a length close to the actual model such as a 22 should be about 22" long excluding tongue?
The mod.# on the tag is; 1H0ACAM2XFB011464, can I chase the size that way?

What is the difference between a Fun Chaser and Classic?

Thanks for your help-Jerry

25 is the overall length, measured tongue to rear bumper/ not cabin size.
Interesting thought, the Upper box is about 2' bigger than the bottom box. But of course!

Some guesstimates, when the box is closed, On front you'll have a 3' overhang for the tongue and on the rear about 1' for the bumper.
Leaving about 21' for the upper box. Raise the top and the remaining lower box is about 19'.
All just guesses.

Final thought, that far north you may have to consider shrinkage.

Shrinkage; good selling point for my wife Wrascal. I can tell her she will have more cooking space when we get to the Gulf? Wait, I do all the cooking when vacationing........... Think I will approach this from another angle. :)

Thanks for the reply.-J :)

What is the difference between a Fun Chaser and Classic?

I thought by now other - more informed sources, would have answered this question. In a nutshell the difference is in the amenities and build quality. The Classic is the more refined version.

I think it's important to note that neither one comes with maidens to take care of even the most basic chores - for that you will need a wife. Come on down and enjoy our Southern hospitality.

As Wrascal will tell you, you actually WILL have more cooking room when you get to the gulf because you will be cooking in the great outdoors!:D

Great outdoors?
 

I need a blast furnace to cook outdoors here at this time of year.
Mi. is a great place to be from in the winter.

Thanks guys. I'll ask the wife if I can keep an eye open for one with a "maiden". If wife is feeling generous afterward, I will still have one open for looking too! ;)

size
 

OK, the box measures about 15 1/2' and the upper measures 18 1/2'.

I'm guess a 19' or 20'? Overall bumper to hitch is about 25'.

Something in the papers inside says it weighs <3K# (2947#?).

Tow vehicle, 2006 Liberty is rated at 5K# for towing. Any concerns or things to watch for?

Thanks Guys-Jerry

You also must not overload the Libertys hitch itself, whatever that amount is, While simultaneously you need (10% minimum, ideal 15%) of the trailer weight (for stable safe towing) on that same hitch.

Some made up numbers for demonstration ...

I'll assume that 2947 pounds is unloaded weight (and doesn't account for onboard water, propane, etc). You should have another number for maximum loaded weight (on board water, propane, food stuff, clothes, computers, etc). Lets assume that number is 4000#:

IDEAL CONDITION: 15% of 4000# load (if you're maxed out) would be 600 pounds. If your total weight was only 3000# then 15% of that would be 450#;
MINIMUMS using same weights at 10%: 400#/300#.

So ... can your tow hitch support those numbers?

On mine, I used a weight distributing hitch (with sway bars) simple because it came with my camper. Other than shifting weight around (onto the tow vehicles front axle) I don't understand how they maintain the hitch weight and proper percentage to offer guidance there; maybe someone can explain them better.

I'm now off the Southern Camping Grill, barber and bait shop, looking for a couple of cold ones. You're welcome to join me there. More welcome if you buy the rounds!

The size of Hi-Lo trailers has always been, or most always, rear bumper to hitch. It can be an inch or two one way or another but it is usually to the nearest foot.

The Funchaser was a lower priced unit that lacked some of the qualities of the Classic and some of the standard items. It was the predecessor of the Funlite and the later built Towlite models. The Classics, Funchasers, and Funlights were all built in the original Hi-Lo factory in Butler, Ohio. Later the Towlite was built in the new factory down the road in Bellville, Ohio. Eventually the Classic line moved into the new factory also.

The old factory became the repair facility for warranty work, etc. That became JR Repair after the company went out of business.

Some intersting reading: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f52/50-years-hilo-1663/

History lesson.

hitch
 

Thanks Wrascal- I calculate as you, about 4K# of Gross trailer weight if this is indeed what I think it is. The dealer will weigh it for me prior to me driving over to look at it so I know for certain.

I figure a tongue weight of 400# plus maybe 200# behind the axle which includes anything in the vehicle and the WDH. So, maybe 600# of tongue weight.

Yes, tomorrow I will lay cardboard down on the garage floor (too cold to lay there w/o it: 2* at daylight this morning) and crawl under to see if I can find a tag on the hitch. I'm not certain if I have a 3500# or 5K#.

Best not to wait for me to arrive, you'll most likely be pretty thirsty when I get there.-J

Excuse me for not waiting as I'm now on my second Special -coke and rum (the beer was warm/ bar maiden getting finer); Shhhh, I told my bride I was taking the dog for a late walk.
I don't know the Liberty specs but this may help you:

Class 1 (Class I) trailer hitch with capacity of up to 2,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight.

Class 2 (Class II) trailer hitch with weight-carrying rating of up to 3,500 lbs gross trailer weight and 300/350 lbs tongue weight.

Class 3 (Class III) trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 5,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. Also sometimes used to refer to a hitch with any 2" receiver, regardless of rating. *PROVIDED THIS IS A FACTORY HITCH* I SUSPECT THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE.

Class 4 (Class IV) trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 10,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 1,000 - 1,200 lbs tongue weight. Although many times any hitch with a capacity greater than 5,000 lbs gross weight is referred to as a Class 4.

Do note, the marketing lawyers have used minimal (safe) numbers, only loaded at 10%.

I guess in fairness I should point out ... many, many, many people ignore their actual numbers and pull over-loaded everyday. In your case you need not worry about busting any remaining warranty (Jeep), but legally you could be held accountable if something went wrong - and that includes your insurance company denying to honor any claims.

This might help....

Travel Trailer Weight Calculator

size?
 

The trailer was weighed today by the dealer @3400#; much more than I suspected so maybe it is a 25' as it measures from ball to bumper.

My hitch is a class 3 as I ordered it and installed it. I checked the order I placed to verify this and it is 500#/5000#.

So, we are driving to see it Friday, taking the Jeep Liberty to tow the unit as a trial before buying. I suspect we will find the Jeep underpowered!

If I am satisfied with the condition and price I will store it there and shop for a larger tow vehicle. Then we can start this all over again................ but, maybe buying the RV first is a good way to go in order to assure a good fit between RV and vehicle.

The dealer said I should have a 8K# WDH which seems a bit high. I figure I will be fully loaded at 4500# or less. In the past with RV's I've never traveled with full water, gray or black tanks. I usually carry enough water to get thru' the day and for an emergency. Then dump/load before I leave in the morning if traveling. We rarely dry camped.

Would you purchase an 8K# WDH? Or go with a 6K# WDH? The 6 will provide 600# TW and 6K# trailer weight which exceeds the expected weights. I'm concerned an 8 may bounce the trailer to death.(?)

Liability- yes, I've thought about that and the prospect of being sued. A good lawyer will find multiple avenues for a law suit should someone be injured.

Thanks again for all the help and sorry I was too slow on the libations.-J

If the HiLo is 3400# and your hitch is 500# then your Jeep is capable of bringing it home with you - no need to make two trips. Just don't preload the Jeep with unnecessary weight robbing items (like the mother in law).

This trip would also tell you if you need another tow vehicle (larger engine and/or more payload) - or not.

I'd postpone the WDH until later on; if purchasing another tow vehicle it may not be necessary.

Additional personal info, as I lived it. I had an 06 Ford E350 van (one ton) that I intended to use for pulling, but I was unable to find any campers that I liked and could afford; after several years I eventually sold it for a loss.

Within two months I found/purchased my HiLo. I pulled it home with my Honda RidgeLine. The Honda was more than capable, but listening to the higher engine revs (while pulling) eventually got to me - and so I again went shopping.

So, I found/purchased an older F250/V10. Talk about excess capability, no WDH hitch required; but like those laws of physics, we must expand to use that vessel.

With dogs and grandkids, things were tight in the HiLo, then we stumbled into a nice affordable fifth wheel. Yup, we purchased it and sold the HiLo.

Believe it or not, I'm again looking for another tow vehicle. I'm wanting more amenities, a larger cab for the dogs, and if shopping - greater payload, for just in case another deal comes along.

To summarize, get your final tow vehicle up front, don't do like I did.

size?
 

Today I picked the brain of the local U-Haul owner and he pretty much agreed; 8K# WDH was excessive. He said in the perfect day; no wind/little traffic and dry roads and wired brakes, my vehicle would be OK w/o the WDH but I think I want a WDH anyway, especially with this vehicle.

So, off Sat. to take a look. Thanks Again-J

The Hi-Lo owners manual recommends a WDH.

Real men don't need a manual telling them what to do (that's the wifes' job).

My interest in postponing a WDH was simple due to your possible replacing the tow vehicle AND your HiLo purchase is still "iffy". While I find it easy to spends others money - I'm a tight-wad.

Don't forget the pics, otherwise it never happened.

wdh
 

Our 25ft. HiLo Classic swayed while driving on dry roads. We got a WDH and never have been sorry.

size
 

OK, so we woke early Fri. and drove to the Greater Chicago area to buy and retrieve our new home on wheels. The back of the jeep was loaded with warm clothes and several sheets of thick cardboard so I could lay on the ground and inspect the underbody. (Not required in certain parts of La. I'm told) I had wood blocks, jack tools and my wife. MIL stayed home so as not to overload the vehicles or my butt.(Thanks for the tip Wrascal) Up at 4AM eastern and with numerous stops to offload coffee and onload more we arrived about 10AM Central. We find old bones and joints require more frequent stops and we ain't gona' talk prostrate's.

Obviously, the man who wrote, "How to lie with statistics", had not yet held a digital camera with an editing program. A quick look had us on our way with a heavy sense of relief that we had not bought "sight unseen". The sale of this unit may require a man well versed in selling horses.
So, back to square one, or maybe square ten armed with the knowledge and education I'm getting here for free.

I will be back..............:D..................Jerry

Regarding a WDH- I suspect any company would want to sell the WDH and not want to go on record saying one is not required. I spoke to a trailer company owner and Reese rep who said the purpose of the WDH is for load leveling. If the tow vehicle is rated for the total load and the bumper does not drop more than 2" when you hook up, the WDH is not required altho', it would be a benefit in towing.-J

There are safety considerations that go along with a WDH. With the WDH you maintain a level tow vehicle which means the weight distribution keeps weight on the front wheels and that insures proper steering and stopping traction. Also, your low beam headlights won't act like high beams, which translates into not getting the high beams flashed at you from approaching traffic.

Just to add one more detail to Rich's excellent points -

Without a WDH you increase the loading on the rear axle of the tow vehicle, a LOT! If you were to measure the resulting loading on that axle at a CAT scale, you might find that the axle and rear tires are overloaded (you can find the axle weight limits on the tow vehicle's driver door sticker).

Bottom line, use a WDH - but it should be "matched" to the tongue weight and the weight of the trailer.

- Jack

Now that you're not under the gun you can simultaneously shop for both a camper and tow vehicle. My advice is to buy much more tow vehicle than you'll need, then you're not limited on which camper because of weight concerns. Then, further down the road you can upgrade to a bigger, heavier camper (if you feel the need).

Enjoy the experience.

Speaking of weight, Queens Fat Bottomed Girls is blasting out of my FM dial. Hope my fat neighbors don't take offense.

size?
 

OK, so I have a deposit on a 22' and we have agreed on cost based on the conditions as they have been described. The trailer is 1400 miles away and I've been assured the description is accurate and they are a well established, nationally known company; but I'm still uneasy as I should be.

BTW: This is the same company who readily refunded my deposit last week when I rejected that trailer based on condition.

So, I intend to drive down and if all is satisfactory, bring it home towing with my Buick Enclave; 5K# towing capacity and hitch. So, first, some questions;
The trailer is a 2006, 22' HI lo. I have been told the dry weight is 3400# and a max loaded weight of 5100#.

1. Electric brake control unit? What do I need? Is the most expensive always the best? I assume the trailer will be wired properly to the 7 way, so I should be able to wire at home and then check the trailer when I get there before connecting.

2.What about a WDH? Yes, despite my earlier statements I did and do intend to tow with a WDH and sway control. Based on the trailer weight, a 500# or 600# rated tongue weight should do the job fine. I have no intent of changing trailers at any point and if I did, I'd buy one to suit the new trailer.
I have been told the trunion type is easier to connect. I see some WDH's are described as being for electric and/or surge brakes? Some have chains and some have a type of bushing the bar slides into. I even see an aluminum (?) for livestock trailer use.

So, any preference?

Thanks all, I appreciate your help and experience and having that, will make my decisions easier.-Jerry

Either of the WDH's you describe will do the job. The chain type is more commonly seen, but it requires an additional sway control device. The combination, however is somewhat cheaper than what I have, which is the Equal-I-Zer hitch. This uses heavy bars that are placed on L-brackets on the trailer tongue and it controls sway through friction at those points.

Reese is a manufacturer of popular chain type hitches.

I personally recommend the Tekonsha P3 brake controller. It is only about $20 more than the P2, which is also a popular choice, but it is much easier to set up properly and, because it uses electronic controls, it is not likely to be accidentally turned off (like my P2 once was when someone at the car dealership must have bumped a switch). For $30 less than the P2, you can buy the Tekonsha Primus, and it will work too.

If you don't mind spending installation fees, the trailer dealership will probably mount the WDH and sway control for you as well as the brake controller. Either one is fairly easy to set up, once you've done it, but the first time is a bit like cub scouts setting up a pup tent.

Edit: Your tow vehicle will be running very close to its limits with that trailer. I'd get the 600# tongue weight hitch and you're going to have to watch the weight you put into the trailer with that one. Ideal tongue weight should be between 12-15% of the trailer weight, so if you were to load the trailer to 5000#, the tongue weight could be as high as 750. That would require an 800# hitch. But, that loading would likely overload your tow vehicle. I think you should plan for a tow vehicle upgrade in the future.

- Jack

I concur with one minor change. I chose the P2 controller simple because I knew that I'd be constantly playing with the display ... instead of driving. And my first controller was a cheap Hayes brand that honestly was not a lessor controller. You really need a bigger towing machine.

Sent from the backwoods of a state park with only a slow weak cell signal.

cware, you need to get your Buick Enclave manual out of the glove compartment and go over all the details of its towing capabilities. You might even take the Buick over to a Buick dealership, give them the specifications of your Hi-Lo, and let them advise you as to whether or not the Buick already has at least a basic towing package on it and, if needed, should you have installed a heavy duty tow package. I think you said you were towing the Hi-Lo at least 1400 miles. My dealership for my Buick Lucerne does not recommend towing at all, primarily due to the front wheel drive.

Dee
Summerville, SC

size?
 

OK, per the great info here, I'm thinking I will head to the dealer. My manual says 2K# w/o the trailer package, 4500# with. Despite the hitch, I've determined I do not have the T-package with "trailer tow mode", that changes the shift points on the tranny.

My 2006 Jeep Liberty manual indicates 5K# capacity, with 3.7L and 3.73 gears. So I will talk to the Jeep dealer as well.

Any opinions on the Jeep?- Thanks for all the help-Jerry

I think the Jeep can do it - barely, but it will be better than the Buick. I still think a new tow vehicle is in your future, sorry!

Fortunately, you can use the same WDH with any tow vehicle and the brake controller is fairly easy to transfer to a new vehicle too (it may need a new wiring harness if you do so).

There are a lot of "extra" costs to owning a trailer, aren't there? I started with a Nissan Frontier (6 cyl) tow vehicle and after the first trip determined I needed something bigger. But, it pulled our (smaller) trailer over 11,000 ft passes in Colorado!

- Jack

I vote the jeep, also, though I agree that "barely" applies. I agonized for a year or so and finally upgraded my 97
' f150 to a newer half-ton that is more within the limits. AGain, remember, it isn't "just" the towing capacity you need to be conscious of but, also, the total weight capacity of the vehicle which will include the vehicle itself and everything in it and the weight of the trailer tongue. You'd be surprised how many trucks at first glance look like they would be plenty big enough but end up being very borderline once gear and everything else is included.

Rick

Jack, the problem with the Jeep Liberty is the short wheel base. Before we purchased the Hi-Lo, we towed a fairly heavy Jayco popup with a 2000 Ford Explorer (V-8 and 3.73 rear axle), and it was a little "squirrelly," particularly when towed on roads with a lot of uneven pavement. I know that the Jeep Liberty has a shorter wheel base than the Explorer. People forget that the sway control feature does not prevent sway 100 percent; it just assists in dampening sway. If a decision is made to get a new tow vehicle, a lot of the costs involved in rigging out the current vehicles is absorbed into the new vehicle purchase. For example, the new Ford F-150 with Eco-Boost engine (for gas economy) comes with a heavy duty tow package, built in brake controller, an anti-sway sensor generated by an onboard computer which (once sensed) assists in bringing the camper under control, dashboard warnings for low tire pressure, improper hitching, etc. We wanted the F-150, but ended up getting the F-250 because down the road we thought we might see a heavy Airstream in our future. However, for a daily driver and a tow vehicle, the F-150 would have been great.

Dee

Size
 

Update;
The Buick will not do the job and the era of("big vehicle, big tow capacity") is long gone.

The Buick Enclave w/o the trailer package is rated for only 2K# and with the package is rated for 4500#. The package includes a "trailer tow" switch to change the shift points while towing.

My Liberty should tow 5K#. It has the trans cooler and 5K# hitch but lacks the (6) speed auto transmission.

Either vehicle has too little extra capacity to allow safe towing.

I agree, the Liberty wheel base is prohibitive for towing on anything but "blue bird days" and conditions.

We intend to use this trailer only during the winter as a means of escaping the cold and dark evenings of MI. It has taken one year to get the trailer but hopefully, we will get the tow vehicle late summer and be visiting "Ya'll" in 2016.-J

You can bet I will be back asking questions. Thanks for the help!

Just getting back from several camping days. Cold, brrrr (high 50's but with brisk winds, nights at/near freezing); more brrrr.

Now back to the story: While I understand the HiLo attraction, it appears that you are wed to this one brand; don't limit yourself. Another alternative to purchasing a more capable tow vehicle ... is to purchase a lighter/smaller camper. Consider it a starter camper while you evaluate what you may eventually want (and need).

Also, as I previously mentioned about our experiences, you may outgrow the HiLo (we did - but not due to any faults, we simple outgrew it); you may just eventually decide to upgrade it - just like we did - and once again find yourself shopping for a larger tow buggy.

Regardless, while TV shopping, consider the possilbe long term needs and purchase more vehicle than you can imagine ever needing.

Tonights receipe is Georgia Moon Shine. Not my flavor, but it was a gift. I'm not looking in its mouth.

Dee - I'm a little late responding, but my internet service was down most of the day.

I agree with you on all points. I thought the Jeep was too small a vehicle for a long term tow solution too. I simply felt it would work to get the trailer home.

Regardless of the tow vehicle decided on, a WDH is mandatory in my opinion. Adding a sway control is as small additional expense if the WDH does not come with integrated sway control.

And, I somehow got the feeling that cware was not going to be in the market for a new model year tow vehicle. I know I wasn't and bought my truck when it was two years old in a private sale at about half the original sticker price. It's never had ANY mechanical problems and has served me well - 10 years old now with 92,000 miles).

Thinking that he might buy an older tow vehicle, I thought he might need a brake controller and sway control anyway. If ultimately they are not needed, the cost of each is not astronomical (and additional sway control should not be a problem, so maybe only the brake controller would be superfluous).

Anyway, those were my thoughts. As I said in my post, I think most of us find the true cost of trailer ownership to be a lot more than the trailer itself!

- Jack

the true cost of trailer ownership

When I purchased my HiLo I found I only needed to add a brake controller and convert the 4 pin wire harness to 7 pin, maybe $250, I forget. The HiLo came with a WDH; soon after, even though spec wise it was capable, I decided I wanted more truck.

Which played out well as we eventually upgraded to a fifth wheel. This camper upgrade/conversion wasn't quite so cheap. First thing was a FW hitch ($820?) and larger towing mirrors ($250).

Then the new to me camper needed batteries ($220?) and five tires ($750?). And losing the truck bed space meant no where to put the propane fireplace, so a bumper mounted cargo rack was added, $200.

Plus a few other now forgotten things. The point is - YES, there will be other expenses.

size?
 

No, not tied to the Hi Lo and I only have a deposit on it so, if I do not want it after seeing it, I get my money back. My major attraction is the low profile.

I honestly, at 68 yrs. do not see myself wanting anything bigger than the 22's I've seen, but you never know. We do not like traveling and staying in motels with our English Setter and I do like to chase birds so some primitive camping will be done.

I've owned motor homes and a couple tent campers. MH's, in my opinion and for my limited retirement income are too costly fuel wise at 6MPG and $4/gal, tent campers are cold in the fall/winter/spring.

So, today I'm checking Craigslist for Yukon's. Too cold here now to get out much and kick tires.

Any opinion on Yukon's? Is the 4 wheel steering worth paying extra?-J

Each year, edition, etc will vary but this is listed somewhere on the net.
Yukon Weights and Capacities 2015 GMC Yukon SUV Pricing, Features & Specs | Edmunds.com

MAXIMUM TOWING CAPACITY
8100 lbs.

MAXIMUM PAYLOAD
1554 lbs.

GROSS WEIGHT
7300 lbs.

CURB WEIGHT
5746 lbs.

Can you keep your total vehicle cargo weight (pax, fuels, water, tongue weight etc) under that 1554 pounds? It doesn't specify the bumper hitch spec, but based on its claimed pulling weight of 8100 pounds I assume its a class 4 hitch and would share its same restrictions.

By alternatives to HiLo I was referring to the TrailManor line of similar campers. While not quite as "quality" they are lightweight and still being made - so likely more available.

One example: 2720 Series | TrailManor Website

size
 

I considered the Trail Manor but did not like the roof seal system.

I'm moving to the towing forum for some more questions. Thanks-J

I'm not familiar with TrailManors, simple aware of them. Don't be a stranger here on the HiLo.