110v wiring diagram
 

I am looking for a wiring diagram of the 110v circuits. I went to the Library and looked the owners manuals and they only show the DC circuits. I am trying to find out what the 110v wire goes to that runs up through the wardrobe then into the upper cabinet above the bed on the left side of my 2806C. The 12 gauge wire goes from the cabinet up into the ceiling. There already is a huge wiring harness in the shower area that powers the air conditioner and pretty much everything in the upper part of the trailer. I cannot find anything other than the air conditioner that runs on 110 volts in the upper portion of the trailer. The trailer was built with every available option installed so I don't think it is for a "future" option.

Jeanj
Romex wiring is used through out the trlr.
It looks like wire used for 110v, and can handle 110v.
My tlr has 12v in that wiring also.

you are correct that only thing in the top that is 110v is the A/C. Possibly a tv connection/ antennae???

110v is also in the bottom for the inverter/charger, refer., plug ins

everything else is 12v, ie: lights, fans,

use a multi tester and check for the voltage.

Jean, the "wire bundle" you speak of in the bathroom is probably all the 12V feeds and ground for things like the running/stop lights, interior lights, ventilation fan, etc. The Air Conditioner is probably fed by a heavy black insulated wire that may well run beside the "wire bundle". It would be a 3-conductor wire that looks a lot like a heavy duty extension cord.

There is nothing I can think of in the top other than the Air Conditioner that uses 110 AC power. But, if you have (or had) a solar panel up on top of the trailer, that 12 gauge wire is probably the feed from the panel to the solar controller, unless it was removed too. If it IS for a solar panel, it will probably be 2-conductors and covered in black insulation too. A fairly useless 15 Watt solar panel was an option in my trailer and probably yours too. It would have been mounted on the roof at the front of the trailer.

I say the panel is useless, because 15 Watts is really only able to maintain a battery's charge when the trailer in not in use. It will NOT charge the battery during camping.

I installed 2 - 100 Watt panels on the roof of my trailer and they do a good job of keeping the batteries charged during dry camping. To get the charge down to the batteries, I ran a pair of 10 gauge solar wires from an upper cabinet down behind the couch and then through the floor to the battery compartment. The 15 Watt panel would be happy with the lighter 12 gauge wire.

Jean, I have the same trailer as yours. The wire you refer to is for the air conditioner. If you trace it down to the space between the wardrobe and the wall, you will find that there is a plug. It was designed to be unplugged and stored in the upper cabinet when the unit is down, much like the main power cord for the trailer is stored when towing. There are actually two receptacles in that space on the side of the wardrobe. The one for the air conditioner is on a separate circuit breaker from the other receptacle. It's not the easiest spot to look at, but you can see it by getting on the bed, then looking into the space between the wardrobe and the upper wall.

Maybe this can help:

https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...-20of-202..pdf

I had to remove the cabinet over the sink area because of water damage within the wall. I am in the process of repairing the leaks. my issue is that I cannot remember what the yellow wire hanging out the top of the wall is for. it was hooked up somehow with the lights in the cabinet. it has a black wire attached to the end of it and I think you hook all the black wires to it. after I took down and disconnected the cabinet wires, I now do not have running lights and the back light on that side of the trailer does not work. I had to move the trailer and I only have one light on the right side of the trailer.

Lisa - if you've lost virtually all of the lights in the rear of the trailer, that wire is probably a "common" ground wire. If you have a "bunch" of black wires that are not connected to anything, I'd go ahead and connect them to the black wire you have at the end of the yellow one.

Or, if that black wire at the end of the yellow one is still connected, then it's probably the ground for the light that is still working. You could test this by disconnecting it and see if that light stops working. If so, that would confirm it's a ground line and you could connect all the other black wires to it.

Those wires are not 110V. They are part of the 12V DC system.

- Jack

Good Morning Jack,

Hope all is well with you this morning. The black wire that is on the end of the yellow is not connected to anything, it is just hanging from ceiling. I do remember taking a screw out of the wall but lost the picture and video showing me what I did prior to taking the cabinet down.

You guys have been amazing on this forum.

Bless you

Lisa, what year is your trailer? There MAY be a wiring diagram in the library for it.

- Jack

1992 Funlite

I just love taking phone-photos of something, usually when it is too dark and I dont have a real good angle, before I dismantle something or while I am dismantling something only to find I have no idea what I am looking at when I use the photo to put it back together. :)

Jeanj, I have a 2705T with all the bells and whistles which would be a lot like your 2806, but the power outlet for the A/C is located on the bottom half of the trailer, drivers side, and on the wall dividing the bathroom and bedroom. On the passenger side and on the same dividing wall is a 110 outlet for a television.:eek:

Lisa, it's a puzzle. The wiring diagrams show "white" wires as the ground circuits.

I STILL suspect your black wires are grounds. You would have completely separate, different color wires going to the "hot" side of any of those rear lights, since they have to operate independently. They ALL could, however, share a common ground.

If you could take the cover off one of the lights, you might be able to see what color wires go to it. If there's a black wire, it would tend to confirm my hypothesis.

I had to take one of my tail lights off (needs a screwdriver once the cover is off) to find a wiring fault and it's not hard to do.

- Jack

Thanks Jack,

I will check my lights like you said.

now my battery keeps dying. i need to purchase a new battery. do anyone what type of battery I need to purchase. Automotive or marine?

Marine is preferable to automotive. It does better under "deep cycling" conditions, but NO battery really does well if deeply cycled.

An automotive battery is designed for engine starting.

- Jack

Lisa, that picture you posted of the yellow wire looks more to me like an interior light circuit. Do all your interior lights work?

- Jack

If your 92 Funlite has the curly power cord that connects to the upper half this manual may work for you. It shows the yellow wire to be the power to the the interior lights.

https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...-classic-2016/

I know I have the same problem it's frustrating . the pics just don't look the same.:)

Yes Jack it is for the interior lights.

Good, so now, I have no good guesses on why your outside lights don't work.

I lost my left hand brake and turn signal, because a mouse or rat had chewed through the wire, somewhere behind or under my refrigerator (before I mouse-proofed my trailer). I spliced in a new section of wire to bridge that gap and things are fine now. Do you have mice where you live? (Stupid question I guess, kind of like, "Is the Pope Catholic?").

Anyway, the wires to those outside lights are in the wire bundle that goes from the bottom half to the top half in my bathroom. They are joined in that bundle by wire nuts. You can separate them (one at a time by removing a nut) and then test the lower half end for voltage using a multimeter. If you get no voltage, you know the break is somewhere between that point and the front of the trailer.

You can also check for voltage at the connectors on the side of the battery box with the trailer hooked to your tow vehicle and something like a turn signal activated. If there's voltage there, the break is between it and the wire nut point.

But, if there's no voltage in the front, there might be a problem in your tow vehicle. I've bought (online) a simple plug-in, 7-pin trailer plug tester. It has lights in it to show if each circuit in the trailer plug is good. I think this is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58270-12.../dp/B001EOWQY4

- Jack

Mr. Jack,

I have went on line and purched the 12V tester. Thanking you once again. I was pulling the trailer and low and behold I have one light on the right side only. Think it might be from my truck. I pulled a low bar trailer and only the right side was working. So I went back to the place that installed my 7-way and brake controller. They said it was a ground issue and said they fixed it. But I think when the top fell down on the left hand side it might of pinched a wire. Having an electrian look at it next after this trailride is over.

Use a 12v automotive turn signal flasher unit. This will use the trailer battery for power and turn on all outside lights if lights are working and bulbs not burnt out. This will tell you if the problem is in the trailer or tow vehicle. With the 12v power cord (one that plugs into your truck) hold it with the flat side up at 12 o'clock position. Insert the 2 prong 12v flasher unit into the slots at the 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock position on the plug. This will activate the lights. Happy hunting................

Bob

That sounds a neat trick, Bob. Thanks for posting it.

- Jack

Thanks Jack. It is also a great safety tool. If you ever have to pull over on the side of the road, particularly at night, the trailer shows up better with all lights flashing rather than just the tail lights. Gives other drivers more visibility of your trailer.

Bob

I hadn't thought of that, Bob - Good on you! I'm going to buy a flasher next time I'm in town. I assume you have to use a 2-blade flasher? I notice some of them have 3 blades.

- Jack

Yes, only use the 2 blade flasher unit.

Bob

It was probably a stupid question, but I was thinking maybe one could cut off the center blade.

- Jack

Found one source of the problem. The top bulb where it roiches rhe connector was broke. As soon as I toich rhe buln ro check it, it fell off. It is the one over rhe license plate.

Lisa, that one looks to me like your Brake/Turn/Running light (if it's the one on the right). The other one looks like a single filament bulb and should be the one for the license.

Neither bulb looks like it has good electrical connections to me. You'd have to take the fixture off the back of the trailer to check the wiring I think. I suspect it is held on with 2 or 4 screws.

- Jack

Jack,

It is located on the drivers (left) side. I need to replace it because of corrosion. The new one have five wires but different colors than the one I have. My old one has 2 yellow. 1 white, 1 red and 1 black. The new one have 2 white 1 red, 1 green and 1 black

Oh dear. Is there any installation pamphlet with the new light that says what these wires are for?

The two white wires are almost SURELY ground wires, one for the brake/turn/running light and the other for the license plate light. They should be connected together with a wire nut to the white wire in the trailer.

I suspect the two yellow wires in your old fixture were the "hot" wires for the running and license plate light. If the green and black wires go to different light holders in the new fixture, they are probably the same as the old yellow ones.

And, I think the red wire would be the brake/turn signal input. It should be running to the upper light in the fixture.

These are my best guesses. If you can see which receptacle the old wires go to, find the corresponding connections in the new one.

- Jack

Mr. Jack,

this is what the website installation video states:

Wiring connections

RED wire - Reverse Light Circuit
GREEN wire - Tail Light Circuit
BLACK wire - Blinker and Brake Circuit
White wire - Ground wire to trailer frame.

I downloaded the manual that someone supplied me with a link on this forum. I will print all pages and make me a book to look at. I think it has a wiring diagram on there.

You guys have been a God send for me on this forum. First time Travel Trailer owner and I am learning so so much.

Thanks again

Oh, cool. I don't think you had a backup light on your trailer before, and if that's the case you won't be using the red wire. You could cut it off or just not connect it to anything.

Wire the two white wires to your trailer ground wire (it's also white in my trailer and the wiring diagram in the library says it's white).

The wiring diagram says the left blinker/stop light circuit is a red wire in the trailer. You'd wire your black wire to that one.

The wiring diagram says the running lights in the trailer are fed with a green wire, so you'd wire your green wire to that one if you have it.

Hope this is not too confusing.

IF you have a multimeter, you can find the appropriate wires in your trailer this way if they are different colors. Put the multimeter in the DC volts position in a range that can handle 12V. Connect the ground lead of the multimeter to the white wire of your trailer.

Now you can probe the other trailer wires with the other multimeter lead as you activate each circuit from the tow vehicle. For instance, with the parking lights on, when you find a wire that gives you 12V (approximately), you've found the taillight (running) light circuit.

Edit: I've just studied the first picture you posted and see the wires you show are coming out of the trailer. If you pull gently on them, you might discover they are connected to other wires inside the back with wire nuts. In any case, the white wire is definitely the ground wire. You'd have to trace the other wires "inside" your old fixture to see which bulbs they feed.

- Jack

do anyone know where I might find marker lights that have four wires. All the ones I am finding have one 2 wires (black and white). my upper 2 lights have 4 wires (2 green and 2 white)

lisa, I'll jump in. I suspect one of the green wires supplies power to this assemble and the other green feeds power to the next light in line. Same with the white, which as Jack says is ground.
Tree

does anyone know where I might find the exact same light, I have searched the internet and have came up blank?

HiLo Light parts
 

Call my HiLo dealer and ask for Jay Simon in parts. He has 30yrs experience with HiLo parts. Have him get on the HiLo forum and he will be able to get parts for you. Mantelli Trailer sales,INC. 1-716-625-8877 Fax 716-625-8395 They will ship anywhere. If the part is in stock it will be same day shipout. They carry a large selection of parts. Mantelli RV - Welcome He has gotten us parts that we couldn't get elsewhere many times.

Light help exterior
 

I had DH read jack and tree climbers posts. A PLUS on the advice both of them gave you.Look at the tail lights and see if you have a clear lens inside the big red reflector. If you do these are back up lights. We have this clear section on the lens assembly. Ours is a 1990 25ft. Rear Door Classic. DH says if we lived closer he would be glad to come over and get your lights installed. Keep us posted. I agree we have some good tech guys when it comes to electrical. My trailer is covered up so I can't get you a picture of what I am talking about. The light is mostly red with a small white square..back up light. Keep us posted.

Install of lights
 

DH says to use dialectric grease to help with corrosion. Put this on the end of the wire and then your wire nut. Walmart has this small tube of dialectric grease or any auto parts store. Just FYI you can also buy a wire nut with epoxy with epoxy in it. Once you put it on it is permanent. You would half to snip the wire to get the wirenut/epoxy off. I learned something new. Tell Jay Mr. Marino told you to call. We will be out at our HiLo dealer later this month for our NYS inspection.