Why is it $350? Can't go buy steel cable same size online or at hardware store?

Yes, you can. And, you can actually increase the diameter a small amount if you want for more strength, I think. Ideally, you want aircraft spec cables, which have better quality control in the manufacturing process.

You have to swag loops in the ends of the cables with compression swags and a swagging tool, or, you can use the bolt on swags which don't need the special tool. This is a DIY job and you can save serious bucks doing it yourself.

You did a GREAT job cleaning the outside! I was ready to write it off when I saw the first "before" picture! A little paint, and it will be pretty again.

Looks like some pretty serious wall damage above the window and possibly in the ceiling. The cabinets in that area look pretty damaged too. It's fixable, but it will take some time.

Sounds like the heater is not lighting, but the fan is running? Mine has an electronic ignition, but I suspect the older ones may have had a propane pilot light? It's possibly just not lit.

The refrigerator makes no noise, so it's hard to tell if it's running. It will take a day to get cold if you are running it on shore power or on propane. DC operation is only for when you are towing and underway. It's possible the ammonia coolant has leaked out and I have no idea how to check it. Mine has a small inline fuse that is accessible from the outside and it is located at the bottom of the compartment. Look for a vent on the lower half of the trailer that can be removed. You could feel "carefully" for heat at the evaporator through this vent access. You might also be able to feel the fins in there, which should be warm if the thing is working. Other than testing for electrical power, and/or the gas flame, these are the only ways I know to check for operation. I'm sure other members have better ideas.

- Jack

The loop end of the cable which attaches to the top isn't hard to accomplish. The opposite end runs to a threaded shaft that goes through the frame and is how the top heigth is adjusted. I don't know how you would attach that end to the bolt other than cut a bit of cable off and use cable clamps to hold the cable together. Sounds a little bit scary to me. But it could be done.

Yea I will start getting the top jacked all the way up so I can work on the cables and 2x4. I just leveled the back after it broke so it wasn't sitting sideways last night. It's a project but it's in good shape so I hated to scrap it. I wanted to make a nice trailer out of the frame. But I thought it was in worse shape after sitting long as it did.

Pressure washers aren't recommended but I reckon you couldn't do much more damage. With pressure washers, you could be forcing water into pin holes, etc., causing more water damage. You did a great job on cleaning it up.

Yea I figured it wouldn't hurt since I'm going to fix water damage anyway. I didn't spend much time cleaning. Just took pressure washer to it. I will scrub outside later on to get it looking better.

Thanks for posting the link I need all help I can get.

Ruben found the pdf where making new cables is described and, you can see it's pretty simple. In my opinion, the hardest part is getting the length right. I think if I were doing it, I'd use the old cables to set the length - possibly shorten the new ones a bit to compensate for any stretch in the old ones.

The only way to apply enough force to stretch the new cables would be to use something like a chain link fence stretcher. There's no way you could do it by hand, like it was described in the pdf.

That was a good find, Ruben. I know I'd seen it before at some point, but I wasn't energetic enough to look for it again.

Edit: Just had a thought - you MIGHT be able to get enough pull by stretching the cable with a ratcheting cargo strap. I have four of these in my truck and find them useful for all sorts of tasks.

- Jack

I repaired my cables and I don't believe they were any where near $350. I think you will find that the cables from JR are about $30 each.
I was going to do the cables myself and the price difference amazed me. Not worth the hassle.
Plus you will get the correct lengths.
DO NOT PULL ALL OF THE CABLES AT ONCE. Do one cable at a time. There are more 2 different lengths.
When you do this remove and clean and re-grease ALL of the pulleys. There are many!!!!
Purge and refill hydraulic pump. This is accomplished by loosening the fitting on the end of the ram mechanism, and running the pump BRIEFLY until no more fluid.
Transmission fluid absorbs water from the air and will damage your pump. Leads to freezing.

The cost was right. Now the man hours need to be put in.

It is all do-able by a DYI guy.

The $350 price is off the Midget RV website. As JR's website is still under construction and they haven't returned my email inquiry I don't know what they charge. As I need to replace my cables over the winter I hope they are that much cheaper. That would be great! The article posted above about replacing the cables doesn't go into how to attach the bolt end to the cable which was my concern about building your own cables. He bought his cables and just had to make the loop end where it attaches to the top. Anyone know how to attach the bolts to the opposite end?

Couldn't you replace the OEM adjustment bolts with eye-bolts? Then, you could create the loop in that end through the eye. This is the approach I'd try first.

Another option would be to use the OEM bolts with a length of the original cable, which you would form into a swagged loop at its end. Then, you could create the loop in the new cable through this loop in the retained portion of the old cable.

- Jack

Misfit,

I see that you live in Texas City. There should be a few marine rigging places close to you. Look for those that specialize in sailboats. They can make cables with the proper threaded fittings swaged on one end.

Moreover, you can purchase swageless fittings that you can assemble yourself: do a web search for swageless stud. If you use these make sure that you also use the correct type of cable. Don't combine plated steel with stainless.

The eyebolt idea is a good one as long as you could find a good hardened steel eyebolt. The stuff you buy at HD or Lowes is made of a grade that I have a feeling would slowly be sawed by the cable and would eventually be cut through. I'm sure there are some marine rigging places around here and I may have to check into that. If the cables from JR are as cheap as someone else posted here, I don't know if you could have them custom made for that price or less. I wish JR would get their site up so I could get their pricing. It's been a couple of months since I sent them an email inquiry about their cable price and never heard anything back. I would like to replace the entire kit with pulleys and all but Midget RV wants over $500 for the entire kit of cables and pulleys.

Looks like JR has gotten a bit further along with their site but no pricing. They do have a number for parts pricing so I may give them a call and check it out.

Got an answering machine. Left a message for a price on cables and the entire cable/pulley kit. If they return my call I will update this thread with their prices.

I had a great dialog with Rob. He responded to my emails ASAP. Try giving them a call. He had my items packed and ready to ship even before I had paid for them and this was just about a month ago.

J and R TRAILER REPAIR
13230 Wooster Road Mount Vernon OH 43050
Phone 1 : 419-883-3001
Phone 2 : 740-392-1600
FaxLine : 740-392-1333

Email: jrrepair@centurylink.net

Website: https://www.jrrepair.embarqspace.com/

There would be next to NO relative movement between the cable and the eyebolt while the cable is in tension. You only have severe tension when the top is up, and, there is no relative movement there during raising or lowering either. I agree, hardened steel is best, but I doubt it is necessary.

And, the bolt itself does not need to twist when adjusting length. It just moves in and out.

- Jack

A couple of comments...

You need an eye bolt made for lifting, not a regular eye bolt. You can get load-rated lifting eye bolts at an industrial or fastener supply house.

The small diameter of the eye bolt material will put too much strain on the cable. To prevent a failure from bending/overload or fatigue you should use a thimble: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...nd_ferrule.jpg. Thimbles sometimes need to be carefully opened up to get them around an eye bolt.

I could have done it myself and used a "wire rope" outfitter here in town for the swagging of the tension bolt.
But the length is the issue for fitment.
And after all of the sourcing of materials is was still way cheaper to get from J&R.
There are many pulleys for each wire, appox5- 6.
Remove and clean /regrease. I wouldn't buy new unless you have an issue. Do check them as they get deeper in the groove when under load. the cost was about $15 /per for the ones I needed. I didn't buy them.
But I am cheap!
They may not have for all models in stock but I believe they make the wire rope in house as needed.
They are busy and would love your message for their business to succeed. New building, etc
I have found them to be helpful, however hard to get a hold of. Call them back.
A typical eye nut tensioner from any store is a disaster in the making. Use the correct parts!!!!!

I agree Ren. There are some places you just shouldn't scrimp on. That's what holds the whole thing up. That would be like framing your house with particleboard to save some money.