Is this normal? Front raises just higher than the rear
Looking at a local Hi Lo; a 1994 Funlite.
Front looks to raise just a bit higher than the rear - not completely parallel. Is this normal? Is this simply a cable adjustment procedure? Trying to upload pics now... Also - ck out the rear of the roof. Are these waves and bubbles ok? It supposedly has a rubber roof (maybe even covering the original metal roof). What do you guys think? Here's a few pics: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...f7c187d86f.jpg https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...03a90350e0.jpg https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...e1346ee48a.jpg |
I can't comment on the "bubbles", but the top should probably be leveled (and it IS a cable adjustment.
The trick is though, to figure out if the front is too high or the rear is too low. You need to try to check the seal, probably near the door to see if it is meeting the frame on the lower half. My guess is, the rear needs to be raised. The owner's manual tells you how to do this. Basically, you lower the top onto 4 2x4s of equal length, which takes the load off the cables and levels the top. Then, you adjust the proper cables to either lower a high end or raise a low end, then check by raising the top and repeating if necessary. One thing though, DO NOT try to raise an end or a corner higher than the point at which the seal makes good contact! If you do, it will put very heavy strain on the cable, which in my case "dented" (deformed) the bottom edge of the upper half where the cable attaches. I had to repair that area with a piece of angled aluminum. - Jack |
I have a 1992 Funlite with same problem.
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CP,
You should E-mail that photo of the "bubbled," roof to J & R Repair for their opinion. My two cents worth is to recommend you do this prior to considering a purchase. Jim |
I have the same year and model and mine has a metal roof so if it is rubber it is probably over the original metal. I agree on the roof it should be level.
Harry |
Concerns with 94Funlite roof/purchase.
Good idea to E-Mail a picture toJR repair of the bubled roof. Looks like a well cared for unit. No rust at wheels or any where in the pictures. Make sure you push on all the walls to check for delamination/soft spots. Both inside and outside. The only deal breaker would be a bad roof or delamination. Ask the owner what roof was on the unit when he got it. Did he make any changes/repairs to the roof. You are so lucky to have the members of this forum to help you. I hope this Rv works out for you.
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CPTMoney,
This looks like a well cared for Hi-Lo. I agree with the rest of the posters in regards to sending pics to J&R and getting their opinion in regards to the roof. Check the walls & ceiling inside for soft spots/delamination and also the outside walls. Hope this all works out for you. Keep us posted........ |
We're going to buy it, I'm 99.9% sure.
Looks very well kept, has detailed documentation of new roof (over original due to hail damage, was professionally installed), documented maintenance, relatively new tires, and the layout we want. The gentleman says it has Model 21 on the paperwork and trailer, but he says it's much longer than 21'. Does that make any sense? Doesn't it look like a 21' to you guys? He says it won't even fit in his 25' garage. Weird. I'd bet good money that it's a 21', based on the size/layout, etc. |
It looks like a 21 foot model, measure the bottom living area on the outside if it is17 to 17 and 1/2 feet it is a 21 foot, or measure from the tip of the hitch to the back of the rear bumper, that's how Hi-Lo measured their trailers, don't include the spare.
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Yes, the lifting cables stretch over time, especially since I notice too many OWNERS leave these up all summer, some all year long in storage, which I believe is a TERRIBLE mistake, without supporting the top externally. And the cables are not equal lenghts, so the stretching on one end or the other will be noticeably more than the other (causing roof to not lift as far on one end or the other).
About the roof, I would not bee to scared, but seriously concerned though... you will find that the bubbling is that air (or water) is infiltrating the roof rubber, My brother had this happen on an RV with a rubber roof, after a tree limb punctured the rubber membrane, the roof then would bubble up like a baloon driving down the highway, and of course if air gets in, water would too. What was bad is, when at rest you couldnt tell. but climb up too see, because his roof problem was in middle of camper, unlike what I see in your pics. when he found out and walked up there, yep it looked funny. Same thing could happen to current owners, as my brother, hadn't noticed it on his own, it was when a friend was following that he called via cell, to tell him the roof was balooning. Plus, we knew the incident that poked the hole in roof, had happened many moons earlier. Fix wasnt that bad, and fortunately RV was always stored inside... We got up there, cut a huge slit, big big enough to reglue the roof back down with the same glue they use to put it on, to hold it back down, and then when that cured, we sealed the cut we made with super calking stuff (probably same stuff you guys all use around the vents on rubber roof campers) and hoped for the best. of course now it is SEP (someone elses problem). Just my $.02 for you. |
Getting a HiLo
I would also tell you to measure the trailer. My gut feeling tells me you need to put the HiLo in the down position and climb on the roof on a dry day. Look at the roof and feel for any problems. How long ago was the roof redone? I truly hope it works out for you. These trailers are very sturdy. Classic models are a bit heavier and hold up. Their is nothing on a HiLo that can't be fixed!! A great trailer!!Hope you are handy. Sam
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Thanks Sam, PopRichie77, Sting32 - and everyone else for your input.
We're super excited about this one, and hope that it works out. My biggest concerns at this point are the roof and the unlevel lifting of the top. I'll work to get those two things addressed first. On the interior, things look pretty decent, save some peeling wallpaper. I'm hoping to get the Mrs. on that once we have it back at our place. Here are a few more pics for your approval/perusal. Would welcome any comments/thoughts. https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...72ec7bff07.jpg https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...bac5e06846.jpg https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...be47a0f257.jpg https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...e47358036c.jpg |
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And a final round - a lot of pics, but I'm really revved up on this one! Can't help myself!
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...ecb8cd2cfc.jpg https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...1dd2c42e86.jpg |
CPT,
Sounds like you bought! Congrats and welcome to the Hi-Lo world! :) Jim |
I'm definitely within striking distance - for the first time yet.
I think I can close it all up (the deal, that is) within just a day or two. Cannot WAIT! |
I don't see the cast iron grates for the top of the stove, but some take them off for travel.
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He's got the stove covers; just took them off for travel/cleaning.
Hey Sting32 - tell me more about the cables stretching. How much do they stretch? When do they need replaced? How much of a chore is it to replace them? I"m sure it's not easy...I'm hoping that it's simply an adjustment, not replacement. How can I tell? I don't even want to imagine breaking one of the cables, esp with one of my kids inside - that would kill a person. Yikes. Anyone ever have the cables break on them? I know that as long as it's fully lifted, the safety latch theoretically takes that possibility out of the picture - but has it ever happened? Definitely do NOT want to be addressing that side of the story... |
Almost a HiLo owner
Looks real good on the inside. Like you mentioned just a little wall paper paste . You will have fun detailing the inside to make it your own. I would suggest that you get a strip of bound carpet for the main floor. It is so plushy to step on when you have to use thr Br in the middle of the night. Throw rugs at the doorway help so you don't get small rocks off your shoes toscratch the floor. Shampoo all the upholstery and scotch guard,probably won't have to do this again for many years. Call camping world and get a free Master catalog. 1.800.626.5944. That way you can see all the "toys "you may want/need. Is this the first camping trailer that you have owned?We had quite a discussion on this forum about how to make our couches /dinettes more comfortable for sleeping. Foam topper at walmart/costoco. Brings back alot of memories detailing the HiLo when we first got ours 10 yrs. ago. The stove grates will lock into place for travel. Keep the questions coming. Sam
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If the cables show signs of damage (broken strands or rusted areas), then they should be replaced. If not, adjustment is a simple matter of blocking the top to a level position with the strain off the cables (lowering onto 4 equal length 2x4s is the "textbook" way) and then adjusting nuts at the ends of the cables (near a wheel probably) to either lengthen or shorten as needed. It is not a difficult process.
You can really see most of the cables underneath the trailer. The hardest parts to inspect are where they loop over the pulleys at the top (of the bottom half). The easiest way to examine that area is to remove a wood strip inside (unscrew it) and then you can see the pulleys and the cable too. This is the easiest way to lubricate the pulleys there too. I think with the wood trim strips (at the top of the lower half) removed, it will be easy to see which end needs to be raised/lowered, because I think you'll be able to see the position of the seal better? I can't recall anyone having a cable break once the top was fully raised. I have heard of them breaking while the top was being lifted. Again though, the cables were worn to begin with. - Jack |
The safety catch only blocks the hydraulic cylinder from retracting, the cables are still holding the top up. I have had a cable break on 2 different trips. The first one that broke the top was half way up and the broken cable jammed and the top wouldn't go down either, top was tilted. I knew the cables were rusty and didn't replace them.
The point is if they are rusty or have broken strands, it won't take very many times up and down and one will break and they always seem to break on a camping trip. So replace them or a trip may turn into a disaster. |
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Nobody hurt, though? Can I replace the upper/lower seal while I have the wooden trim off on the inside? Just wondering about that. I know the seal could stand to be replaced. Just not sure if it's worth tackling - the current owner says he just seals the gap with some foam pipe insulation right now, because it's so cheap and effective. But if that's a good time to jump in on the seal, might as well go for it, yeah? I haven't seen the cables on this trailer yet. Kinda anxious to check them out. Hopefully that's a "someday in the future" project, and not one that will need to be addressed on day one. But if it is....it is. |
what happens when a cable breaks
I just had it happen to me first time i lifted the top after i brought it home. I have a 88 22L , it was raising up and before it was in the raised position. i heard a loud pop and the whole door side came down. I wasn't experianced enough with what to look for when buying one. look at all the cables underneath, all the atachment points and about 3 inches up from where they attach to the top. mine were rusted through and i did not know it. also your wallpaper issue, if it is in more than just the shower, you might have a bad top to bottom seal, the new ones are thick black color, the old ones are grey
also if just the top is peeling, then it is probably a bad seal. I don't know how much j & r sells the seals for , but I just had mine changed and hac 60mph winds and couldn't make a piece of tissue paper move at any seam. it was a worthwhile investment. best of luck with your new project, robod |
Hey robobd -
Who did you seal replacement? J & R is a long-shot for me; I'm a few days drive from there, so that's not much of a possibility for me. Did you replace it yourself? Replace the cables yourself? Now I'm getting nervous about walking into this landmine... |
You can buy the cables from JR Repair, 4 cables are about 225.00, I replaced mine and so have many others, it's not all that hard, there is a Thread in this forum that explains how to do.
Crawl under and take a look they may be just fine. |
cables and seals
I went to j&r because they are about a days drive for me, but if you call them, ask for rob , they can help you just with info or help you out to find the nearest used to be hi-lo dealers close to you. If you try to do it yourself, they can get you the parts (j&r) and guide you through the repairs yourself. also the forums will also guide you through all phases of your repairs , and so will all of the forum members. Hi-lo campers are great, and even though i had problems with mine, i would still do it all over again , because they are that good and the forum and members are even better!
Remember, we are a big family and friend network that always help out and look out for one another! robod |
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Jim |
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Thanks for all the support to this point, all. Hoping to meet up with you and shake your hands one of the days.:) |
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I agree with you, Jim. We discovered that one of our stove grates was damaging the light above it as our trailer bounced along. We always remove the stove grates prior to lowering the top. |
Mine don't lock down either. Found one of them on the floor after a trip once. Wish they did lock.
- Jack |
Stove burners inplace during travel
The burners must be different on the towlight models. Mine have little holes on the porcelin and the grate sits snugly in place during travel. I have a 90 Classic 25ft. Good thing you realized the burners were doing damage during travel. My drawers and ref. never come open duringt travel. However ,when I open the Br cabinents after travel all the toothpaste ect.come flying out. I tried little spring tension rods to hold the contentd in,didn't work. Maybe a small cardboard piece in the front would work. I would take them out while camping.
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We've used two methods to prevent cupboard avalanches. First, in our 1969, I take the hand-towels, washcloths, bath-towels, and oven mittens, clean clothing... you name it... and push them into the front of the cabinets to stabilize the contents while underway. Nothing shifts, therefore there are no avalanches upon opening. Second, in our 2904T, the front cupboards are WAY too deep for the towel technique. I went to our local wholesale restaurant supply store (they'll also sell retail with a price mark-up) and found some big bus-boy dish pans that just fit into the cupboards. This store has a wide variety of shapes of plastic pans and other containers, so it was kind of a measure and try until we got the right ones. We put all of our cans, food boxes, etc. in these pans and slide them into the cupboard, similar to a drawer. Keeps everything stable during travel and gives easy access to contents way in the back when we're parked. In the shallow side cupboards we again do the towel thing when moving. BTW, my apologies if you already know this, but I've found many travelers don't... if your vertical-lifting cupboard doors don't like to stay open when your groping around for the peanut can (or anything else), remount the spring loaded hinges so the outsides slope down a smidgen. That will give the door a little bit of resistance to opening, and CLOSING, giving the hinge springs the little bit of help they need to keep the door open. Jim |
I bought a thin sheet of plexiglass at "big orange" and cut it to size to fit inside some of my cabinets. I used silicone to hold them in place. Now when I open those cabinets, nothing falls off and out.
Bob |
Like Jim, Janet and I use the "basket technique". (Actually, it was her idea). It also makes getting things out of the upper cabinets pretty easy since you can pull the whole mess down in one step, where things are easy to see.
The trick is to find pans or baskets that almost exactly fit the openings so you don't end up wasting space. I think Janet found ours at Bed, Bath and Beyond. - Jack |
Wahoo!
I'm racking up all sorts of good ideas here! Keep 'em coming - I've already got a healthy list of "to do" things... |
Baskets from the dollar stores work well and the price is right. Small ones work great in the overhead cabinets and they make it easier getting things in and out.
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CptMoney
You may be interested in this forum thread from last year. https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f17/...age-ideas-398/ |
Instead of baskets, we use "plastic shoe boxes" for our items. They come with a snap on plastic lid making it easy to pull them out without spilling anything. In one of our cabinets, we can stack them. They are clear so you can see the contents and know if you're grabbing the right one. We use larger ones for storage under the couch. I also use them in my outside storage compartments. Keeps those items dry and clean.
Bob |
I like the shoe box with lid for use in the pods as every thing always gets wet and dirty. even though they have foam weather striping, water goes thru the hinge. Can't believe I never thought of a plastic box with a lid. I will be getting some plastic boxes as I have a lot of things that I would like to put in there and take out of inside the trailer.
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