Electric Trailer Jack
 

Evidently I Retracted it too far! Now, though it runs with the switch in both directions, it won't budge either up or down? :confused:

What do I do?

Well it shouldn't retract too far on its own. Sounds like a stop/switch came loose internally and allowed the gearing to disconnect.Time to take it apart...

Took the Top Cover off yesterday after it happened, but couldn't see where there was any access to the Jack itself?

This ol' Farm boy is Lost with this new contraption! Hi-Lift or manual trailer jacks are so much simpler even though they take more time and effort.

If the motor runs, but the jack doesn't extend, then the gears are not meshing. So, in your original post when you said you retracted it too far, you were right, and, Knotty was right too in saying the stop switch didn't work properly (or something like that).

The trouble is, even if you get it to come down again, it's probably going to do the same thing next time you retract it unless you can get the stop switch or gear disengagement mechanism fixed. It's possible you could get into it properly if you could take it off the trailer tongue. I can't believe the access to the gear box is sealed.

My only other suggestion would be to bang on the foot (downwards) with something, which MAY cause the gearing to reengage. Still though, something internal is not right and that needs to be fixed or you will continue to have this problem.

If none of this works, you may have to replace the jack. They cost about $150 as I recall, but are available from a number of sources.

- Jack

thanks Jack, that was everything I wanted to say, but was too lazy to try to type it all out on my phone!

I DO tend to be "talkative" don't I? :o :o

- Jack

Thanks guys! I'd thought about just applying downward pressure somehow while attempting to lower it. So, that's probably what I'll try 1st.

The salesman I purchased the Hi-Lo from did say something about NOT over extending it, but I thought he was just talking about having plenty of Blocks to set it on the ground surface. Not in both directions!

What kind is it? Maybe broke a shear pin?

Shear pin! Doh! So obvious!

I have a 3500lb Barker jack and it doesn't have a limit switch to keep from raising to high or low. Ask me how I know :o

X 2 on a shear pin. Look the model up on line and see if you can find an exploded view of it. Did you get any manuals or information sheets when you bought the trailer? Maybe there is one on the jack.

Bob

HiLo problems
 

Hi Bruce; I have the Atwood heavy duty power jack on my HiLo and have the owners manual. In over 45 years of pulling RVs I have never seen a power jack that had limit/stop switches. The Atwood manual shows NO shear pin. When you reach the extended or retracked limit a motor clutch releases and you will hear a clicking noise. If you do not release the raise/lower power switch the jack may bind. To unbind it on the heavy duty jack, the jack came with a manual override jack handle that you put into an alignment tube on the front of the jack motor unit and rotate the handle clockwise to lower the camper or counterclockwise to raise the camper. This should unbind the jack. First figure out if you have the Atwood HEAVY Duty jack. If you do, do you have the jack handel? If you should have the AtWood standard & lighweight jack then the process to unbind it will be different. I would have to give you that in another message. The heavy duty jack has the alignment tube for the jack handle and may also have a builtin light. The lightweight will not. You could also have a worn worm gear, bent inner ram, or clutch fault. Hope this helps.

Go on line for your particular model
 

Wow,our forum members gave you alot of spot on advice. Maybe utube has something that will help you. Exhaust all possibilities before you spend $ on a new one. When we got our HiLo we knew nothing about Power jacks and ours was noisy. Ended up buying a new one when it probably just needed grease.

When I did it.......
:(

Check for an in line fuse.

Wow Bruce - guess when I said "should", I shoulda clarified that with "if the designers had any sense there would be a limit switch". Yeesh, no limit switch on a motor like that. And what they charge for these units! And no shear pin too!

Do they even use metal gears in them, or are they nylon?

Good info

Ultra-jack prior to 2010 has a shear pin. The only one I can find, I think the rest are like Jim L said they have a clutch.

Jim, that was a great post! You clearly know more about these jacks than most of the rest of us. A clutch makes perfect sense.

Knotty, I have to believe they have metal gears inside. I use mine to lift the tongue and rear of my F150 so I can swing the spring bars of my WDH onto the L-brackets. I can't imagine nylon gears would stand up to that kind of abuse.

- Jack

Thanks Jim! I didn't get to it today cause I'm transferring Everything from the Old to the "New", and weighing stuff as I go too. Never bothered on the old Classic!:rolleyes: Now, I have to learn a new way of storing everything. Got an annual two week Music Festival in just over 2 weeks. Hopefully, I'll have my voice back and be able to sing.:)

This jack has been weathered enough that there is NO identification left on it. So, I have NO idea what type it is. And, the "Clicking Noise" is all I hear! However, I do recall that there is a small Jack Handle in the Cabinet just by the door, and I have/had NO idea what it was for. Perhaps tomorrow evening I'll check it out.

Got a "Fasting" Lab at the V.A. in the morning, and hopefully will get a reading on a Brain MRI I had a month ago to see IF the effects of West Nile (Nueroinvasive Disease) put a Lession on my Brain like a friend has. Hope there is one, so then there will be something that can be treated. Getting 'OLD' at a slow steady pace is one thing, But at the Snap of the Fingers, it's not the same. 18 months now, and research says I have to put up with this crud for another 2-1/2 years.

etrailer solution
 

I posted an "Ask" message with etrailer shortly after begining this Thread. Finally got an answer this evening, but it looks to me like they would rather Sell me a "New" one for $322.65 Plus:

expert reply by: Jameson C: "On a lot of powered a-frame jacks if you extend or retract them too far you end up warping the nut and screw that allows the jack to travel up and down. When this happens there isn't a way to fix it as the jack is permanently damaged. It's time for a new jack.

"My favorite powered jack to recommend is the Husky Jack part # HT87641 as it has bearings in the screw which allow it to operate quicker and smoother. It also shuts off automatically before topping or bottoming out. Other jacks will allow you to go too far with the jack but in doing so you damage the threads of the screw."

Think I'll still try the Crank Handle tomorrow evening. For now, although it's a hassle & more Time consuming, Hi-Lift jacks do the trick.

I like the design of the Husky jack too. Amazon has the same one for $199.92 here: https://smile.amazon.com/Husky-HB450...FCX71KWS09CPC8

It's the same model as the one recommended but without the wireless remote control. That model is also for sale at Amazon for $248.78.

- Jack

I went to the Amazon sale listed for the powered jack.
In the specs it lists the time of 57 seconds to move 6" for lift/lower.
That seems very extreme amount of run time. It only takes 10-15 seconds to lift trlr top. Especially while using 25amp.
I don't think it will work for my TV. There were several posts about not being able to lower tailgate on Super Duty trucks.
Visual reference makes me think that would be true. Stated 20" above the A frame mount.
Nice looking unit and price. The ball bearing screw would be excellent.

I think the slow run-time is due to the way the thing is geared. It probably has a higher mechanical advantage than the standard, "gear on gear" models.

But you're right in that it COULD use more battery power. Just depends on how many Amps it pulls while doing the job.

My tailgate hits my OEM jack when open because I shortened the hitch bar when I got my new truck. The original length was way too long. Usually, this is not a huge problem since I have windows that open on both sides of my bed cap and, of course, if my truck is disconnected, it's not a factor.

I think if I were replacing my jack, I'd give it a try.

- Jack

This is the jack that came from the factory on both of our Hi-Lo's:https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-80756-...=p_89%3AAtwood

I believe the crank is sold separately:https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-87891-...=p_89%3AAtwood

You have to make sure the jack fits the tongue mounting holes. The Atwood has three bolts that are space 3" apart and the tube diameter is about 2 1/8".

I never had a problem with either one.

All of you! Success with the Crank! Was a little Solid getting started, but then moved smoothly. And works just like before electrically. Many more $$$ my foot!

That's great, Bruce. I'll have to remember the hand crank trick if mine ever binds up when I retract it. My hand crank is stored in the front of the battery box along with the manual top raising handle.

- Jack

Jack, one thing I do remember from the RV salesman, is that he definitely told me to make sure I had enough blocking for the Jack sit on, because that could Freeze it too? Don't know why I couldn't comprehend that raising it too high would do the same thing. I thought about marking it for less than Full Extension, but now realize I need to mark it for Maximum Retraction as well!

Not that big a deal except here at the Farm.

Bruce, Now that the problem is fixed, you need to prevent it from happening again. Get a black Sharpie marker and put some lines on the tube and mark where you need to stop when retracting the jack. It never happened to me, but I did read a book about it.:D Happy camping................

Bob

Have noted that for the Full Extension, But for the High point, in a discussion with a local friend, I'm going to drill a small hole in the Jack Leg, and place a small screw for a stopping point just before it is retracted too far.:)

Bruce- thats a best and simple solution!

For the higher painted stop line, may I recommend a vertical stripe starting perhaps 2" before full extension, so you get a little visual warning *before* you get to full extension.

Thanks Knotty!