The beginning of major remodel
 

Started on the bathroom this weekend. Nearly gutted. Repaired rotten floor. Used part of the cabinet I removed to widen the vanity. Removed the vent pipe and reworked the plumbing and vent. Gonna try and finish it up after work this week and will post more.

It's coming along nicely.

Looking good so far.

Another weekend down. Just about ready for trim work in the bathroom area.

Keep us posted>

Built this upper cabinet for the bathroom area out of pieces I took off of one of the other cabinets.

Lookin good misfit. Continue to keep us posted.

Got the replacement wallboard completed now. Just gotta cut out the window hole and install the window that I took out and tinted. Then ready for paint. Got the kitchen cabinet (upper) rebuilt and ready for install also. Should be a busy day tomorrow. I will post pics of the weekends activities tomorrow night.

Fresh paint. Tinted window installed. Upper cabinet installed with new wiring and new lights. Starting to see improvement now.

Just a suggestion, Misfit - I'd make sure that "in the wall cabinet" has a positive locking latch. If it opens when the top is down, due to "road jostling", it will probably do some damage/be damaged when you raise the top.

You do nice work!

- Jack

Looking at the progress, I don't think your handle "Misfit" is very befitting of your work. :D Things are looking great!

Thanks Jack. If you mean the cabinet door that is open below the upper cabinet in the rear, it does have the original latch that came on the trailer. Kinda like a roller latch where a clip on the door goes over a plastic thing on inside of door frame. All the bathroom cabinets have the same type of latches. Thanks again for the compliments!

That's the cabinet door I was concerned about. My trailer had those kinds of latches on the doors too. After they opened during travel, due to the bouncing around that normally happens along with the weight of items inside the cabinets, I added additional latches to them. I used magnetic latches in addition to the "catch" type latches. In my case, an open door is just a bother, since I have to pick up things that are dumped out. In your case though, I think it could lead to damage.

I've also created a positive latch for the refrigerator, since the original locking latch seems to have lost most of its holding power, and we had to pick up items that fell out of it too.

- Jack

I will definitely keep that in mind Jack. Adding some magnetic latches would be a good idea for sure. I think I will take that advice. I also replaced all those hinges with the self closing type so that should also help.

Yes, the self closing hinges seem to work well. That's what came on my upper cabinet doors, and they've never opened. I had to add the magnetic latches to all the lower doors, and the drawer next to the refrigerator.

- Jack

Most of the demo is complete now. I think I'm going to remove the furnace as it rarely gets cold here in Texas and I don't plan on camping when it is. Still got a little more carpet to remove and I need to remove the sofa and padded wood panels under it. I think I'm going to build drawers for 2 of the sections under the sofa. Will have to put one panel back as that section houses the inverter. But just about ready to go paint happy throughout, then finish wood floor and install a toaster oven and 2 Nuwave cooktops where the stove/oven once were. If I had more time to work on it things would progress a little faster. But all work and no play make Jon something something.....

remodeling
 

Don't be concerned about how long it takes for repairs/remodels. Do it once and do it right. Our repairs took all our spare time for six months.

Started my painting and things are looking good...except for someone's previous modification of the big hole in the wall between the 2 cabinet doors. I can't fix it so I need to cover it. Any suggestions on something to cover it with?

Are you referring to the dark colored round hole? If so, is there any space behind the cut out where you could attach a couple of wooden cleats behind the cut out and then attach a piece of circular material to the cleats, in the same manner dry wall repairs are done? And if so, a diamond shaped repair can be hidden better than a circular repair.

I could do that but I don't know about floating it out. I'm sure joint compound would crack and chip with the movement of the trailer and I've never tried to float with vinyl spackling (and not so sure it wouldn't crack either).