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-   -   manually raise hi-lo? (https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f22/manually-raise-hi-lo-438/)

wallace 07-14-2010 06:32 AM

manually raise hi-lo?
 
Hi, I went to look at a hi-lo that is for sale locally. It has been sitting for quite a while. We hooked up house voltage to it and tried to raise it up. The hydraulic pump motor is not turning we have voltage to the motor but it is either seized or the pump is seized. Is there a way to manually raise it? If not any idea on what the cost of a motor or pump would be? Thanks.

JackandJanet 07-14-2010 09:35 AM

I don't know what year that Hi-Lo is, since you didn't say, but I suspect it has a backup manual way to raise it - mine does. You just stick a handle into a sleeve at the pump and pump it back and forth. I had to do mine this way once when the battery went completely dead. It raises very easily this way, although it's a bit slow.

- Jack

mdtandem 07-14-2010 03:47 PM

If there was no battery in the unit, I believe you may need a 12 volt battery connected to operate the lift motor, I don't think the converter , by itself, will operate the motor.

Mark

Sam Shields 07-14-2010 08:19 PM

manually raise hi-lo
 
Some hi-lo's do have a manual pump, very hard to do!!!. you must have a good battery installed to make it work. you can take a screwdriver and cross the post on the lift selonid and by pass the switches. It is located on the top or side of the lift mtr. Also ck the inline braker between the battery and lift switch it may be bad. You may be able to just push the reset buton in the side of the braker.
Sam

campthewestcoast 07-14-2010 11:36 PM

On my 97 towlite, I need battery power to raise the trailer. After dry camping for a number of days, I drained the trailer battery, I used jumper cables from my truck battery to the trailer battery to raise the trailer upper section to unlock the safety bar. This would also work to raise the trailer up.

Since then, I upgraded to 2 - 6volt batteries wired in series to get 12 volts. I went from 55 amp hours to 235 amp hours

gynot 08-01-2010 12:41 AM

I just inherited a 2002 Hi Low Silver and I can't seem to find a manual for it. Does anyone know where I could obtain one? I am relatively new to the camper ownership, so not real sure where everything is suppose to be located. Also, where would the manual lift be on this. I was shown years ago, but I can't seem to find it. Thanks for any help that can be provided!!

campthewestcoast 08-02-2010 12:50 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by gynot (Post 1782)
I just inherited a 2002 Hi Low Silver and I can't seem to find a manual for it. Does anyone know where I could obtain one? I am relatively new to the camper ownership, so not real sure where everything is suppose to be located. Also, where would the manual lift be on this. I was shown years ago, but I can't seem to find it. Thanks for any help that can be provided!!

Gynot,

I would post your request for the 2002 HiLo manual under "Library Request".

I attached a picture of the hydrolic pump of our 1997 TowLite. The red arrow indicates the manual lift mechanism. You just need to insert a rod into the lift mechanism and start pumping.

We were told that we never should use the manual lift unless you are absolutely fit, so we have not used it. We prefer to use battery power, or jumper cables off the truck to the battery if it is dead.

JackandJanet 08-02-2010 09:19 AM

As I posted earlier, I used mine once. It really was not too bad. I thought the effort was fairly minimal, but it did take a lot of "strokes".

I also had to crank up the hitch by hand and again, that was not very hard at all.

(This was all before I learned that my factory installed TV/Radio/CD/DVD player had a lot of "parasitic" draw and I inserted an on/off switch in the power lead to take it off the circuit.)

- Jack

gynot 08-04-2010 12:07 PM

Les, thanks for the help. Looks exactly like what I was looking at on mine. But for some reason I thought my mother had showed me someplace else to do it that was more of a cranking rather than a pump, but it may have been for something else. Like I said, relatively new at this and it's going to take some time to figure out how it all works. Thanks again, it helped out!! Tony

Atlee 03-22-2012 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by campthewestcoast (Post 1557)
...

Since then, I upgraded to 2 - 6volt batteries wired in series to get 12 volts. I went from 55 amp hours to 235 amp hours

Did you have to make the tray where the batteries are stored larger, since the 6V batteries are taller than the 12V's they replaced?

campthewestcoast 03-22-2012 08:24 PM

Atlee,
On my 97 towlite I fabircated a new pump box and taller battery box for the 6volt batteries. As you can see in a couple of threads back is a picture of my new pump box and battery box. The plastic encloser box that came on the hi-lo was falling apart and needed repair. I was just able to raise the hiegth of the battery box because the upper half of the hi-lo cleared the battery area.
On my 06 towlite, it came with newer 12volt batteries so when the time comes to replace them I going to install 2-6volt batteries. With my newer 06, there is not enough hiegth in the battery storage area because the upper half lowers and covers the top of the batteries. I will have to remove the batteries and pump motor, cut out the metal support framing. Then I can weld in new metal support framing 2" lower, fabircate a new deeper encloser box so the 6volt batteries will fit. It will be a little bit more work but the payoff is I'll get more amp hours or run time when boondocking.

cahuey 05-14-2012 07:01 PM

Manually raise the top?
 
Took the trailer out recently and discovered the hard way that my convertor went south. Tried to raise it using the pump but it felt like the pump needed priming or something since it just felt like I was pumping air.

I jumpered the battery and got the top up but I'd sure like to be able to perform a manual lift if needed.

Change of subjects: I sustained some snow damage and need to get the driver's side repaired. Does anyone know a a repair facility in Oregon? Preferably around the Portland area?

Thanks so much!

Chris

JMDoering 05-14-2012 08:36 PM

Hi-Lo repair in the Portland, OR, area...
 
Chris,

Don't know if this will help, but the last Hi-Lo dealer in your area was: Camper Outlet, 9620 SW Tualatin-Sherwood Road, in Tualatin. Their phone number is: 800-213-6799.

I actually visited this place in 2009. Frankly, they were sour on Hi-Lo trailers, something about of Hi-Lo corporate policies on the quantity of inventory they had to maintain and the fact that Hi-Lo wanted them to outright buy the trailers for resale (apparently different from the majority of trailer manufacturers, who will work out dealer loans). All we heard from the owner were complaints.

Never-the-less, they may still have technical experience, and expertise to handle your repair. Or be able to refer you to whoever was doing their warranty work.

Now, having said all this, Hi-Lo trailers for the most part, are much like every other trailer made. The lift system is the biggest unique component. My suggestion is to ask around and find out where your camping friends take their rigs for repair. Referrals are golden when it comes to honest and good trailer repair work. My bet is you'll soon find an outfit who can handle just about all of your Hi-Lo repair and maitenance needs. Went through the same process here in SW Idaho.

Good luck,
Jim

sam 05-14-2012 10:55 PM

Repairing HiLo
 
Chris, what year and make is your HiLo? Is it a towlite or classic? Could you be more specific on what kind of dammage you have,interior and or exterior. Many of our forum members have done structural repairs.

cahuey 05-15-2012 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam (Post 12238)
Chris, what year and make is your HiLo? Is it a towlite or classic? Could you be more specific on what kind of dammage you have,interior and or exterior. Many of our forum members have done structural repairs.

Sam, I have a 1999 21ft (or 22ft?) Hi-Lo Classic. The largest part of the damage is due to the ribs on the driver's side being bowed out, maybe an inch or two. There was some moisture damage as a result - mostly wood rot by the "kitchen" window.

What kinds of tools and supplies are needed to perform this type of repair?

Thanks, Sam!

sam 05-15-2012 06:42 PM

Wall Repair
 
Could you post some pictures of the dammage? If a great deal of the wall is dammaged(water travels very far) then an entire wall repair at a shop could cost $3,500. Our dealer charges $95.00 per hr. If you are handy then I would suggest you do the repair yourself. That price would be only for one side of the trailer. Go to off topic 1990 Classic restoration to see our story of extensive wall repair. I narated step by step what we did. It roughly cost us $1000.00 in materials. You have to decide if you want to put the time and money into the project. I will be here to advise you every step of the way if need be. Leaky windows,leaky escape window,outside AC electrical box and poor caulking were the source of our water dammage.

cahuey 05-18-2012 05:05 PM

Well, I went to take pictures but the camera batteries are dead :( Seems to be some common electrical theme here. I'll get pics posted shortly.

Jim, I contacted Camper Outlet in Tualatin and they no longer work on those. But the really nice guy there (Don) pointed me to Lafayette RV (Lafayette Auto Body & Auto, Truck & RV Repair | 503-864-2344 | Lafayette, Oregon | Serving all of Yamhill County) and they still do work on HiLos. So I'll hook it up and haul it over for an estimate. My insurance has a $100 deductible so we'll see what the total winds up to be.

Thanks again everyone!

cahuey 05-19-2012 01:35 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Okay, here are the pics (attached) that I took this morning. Sad, isn't it?

Chris

sam 05-19-2012 07:26 PM

Classic water dammage
 
Just curious,how long have you owned this trailer? Defenitely extensive water dammage. My guess would be total wall repair? Is the dammage to both sides? I sure hope your ins. co covers this for you!!What is the NADA value of this 13yr.old trailer? Let us know what your estimate is for$.

cahuey 05-20-2012 07:15 PM

I've owned this trailer since it was new (1999). It always had an issue with the top gasket so we'd put blankets around the gap to keep out the draft.

The damage is just to the driver's side. I think the pics make the damage look worse than it is. I think the value is somewhere around $10,000 - if it were not damaged.

I'm going to haul the trailer down to the repair place this week so I'll let you know how it all goes down (pun intended). :)

cahuey 09-06-2012 03:52 PM

Update: I took the trailer down to Lafayette RV Repair (SW of Portland, Oregon) since they've done HiLo repairs in the past. They called back this morning with an estimate to repair the side wall: $4000 plus change. I doubt the insurance will cover this but we'll see.

If they don't cover it, I'll have State Farm pay me and I'll do the repair work myself.

Many thanks to so many on this forum for the helpful hints and pictures and words of encouragement.

cahuey 09-21-2012 06:18 PM

Another update. The insurance company (State Farm) is going to repair the trailer. I'll need to come up with $100 to cover the deductible (ooooohh!!!) but it should be just about like new.

Next I need to find/buy one of those metal carports and park the HiLo under that. The carport would need to be able to carry a maximum 3ft of heavy wet snow. Any suggestions?

sam 09-21-2012 07:53 PM

Getting side wall repaired.
 
Reviewed your previous posts on your dammage. Make sure the dealer is going to use 1 inch of styrofoam then 1/4 of underlay and 1/8 vinyl sheeting. The most important aspect is that all the layers will be laminated together. This is how JR in Ohio does the repairs. Make sure they are going to have the equipment to laminate all the layers together. two part epoxy is to be used. How much of a warranty is given JR gives one year. Really quize the dealer exactly how they are going to do repairs. In other words compare apples to apples. Get the exact materials and steps the HiLo dealer will use in the repair. No laminate then you will have to talk with State farm about transporting the RV to JR in Ohio. The ins. rep may have to talk to JR directly. When you get the trailer repaired then I would highly suggest you purchase a cover suitable for your climate as well as a carport. Protect your investment. Forgot a few things, JR treats the fiberglass with a sealer(interior and he treats all the metal frame with a metal primmer and metal paint. Make sure your dealer will do this. Let us know how you make out with this new information. We did our own restoration on our 1990 Classic HiLo.

cahuey 10-06-2012 02:05 PM

Another update: the repair shop called and said that the repair estimate is going to double because the frame is rusted out and they can't fasten anything to it. That would have to weld in some new framing. Not good. It may be considered totaled at this point :-(

gus 10-06-2012 04:16 PM

Cahuey
looking at the damage pics from the outside, obviously there are serious damage on the inside. On your last post you mention that the repair facility said there is some frame damage !!! and the price is going to be higher (surprise!!)
if they remove the outside skin and the inner layer then they will be right at the frame, which is simple square tubing (nothing easier to repair than square tubing), I have worked with steel tubing and have done a lot of welding, any good metal welder can repair it, its not rocket science...
if it was mine I would take the trailer with the skin removed to a metal repair shop and repair the frame part and then take it to the RV repair facility to complete the rest.

sam 10-06-2012 06:50 PM

Getting trailer repaired.
 
I think our HiLo dealer has one of the workers that does the welding in the shop. It might be possible to get a mobile welding service to come on site for the repairs. After the welding is done it is very important to treat all rusty metal with a primmer and rustoleum paint. This is so the rust won't come through the new paneling. Keep us posted.

cahuey 10-16-2012 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam (Post 15864)
I think our HiLo dealer has one of the workers that does the welding in the shop. It might be possible to get a mobile welding service to come on site for the repairs. After the welding is done it is very important to treat all rusty metal with a primmer and rustoleum paint. This is so the rust won't come through the new paneling. Keep us posted.

Well, we went and removed all of our personal belongings from the trailer this afternoon. Sad to see it in such shape. But State Farm has declared it totaled ($8100 repair estimate) so they're sending me a check for $7300 - their calculated value. If I had more time I'd bring it home and fix it up myself but there's just too much I'm behind on right now. Kinda sad to say goodbye to it. Some nice memories in there.

Thanks so much to everyone with your help and suggestions. I appreciate it more than you know.

Cheers,
Chris

hilltool 10-16-2012 10:42 PM

Sorry to hear it.

gus 10-17-2012 09:22 AM

Sorry to see another one of these wonderful trailer leave. every time I show my trailer to friends, and they see the ease the Hi-Lo lowers and goes up so easily, you should see the amazement in their face, almost like I performed a magic trick in front of them and they ask if any other company has the same concept, and I tell them as far as I know, this is the only one. next thing I know they are thinking of finding one and going into the world of traveling and camping.
with gas prices as high as it has ever been, its the smartest trailer to have, and in my opinion it will be like your favorite collector car in few years.

sam 10-17-2012 11:01 PM

HiLo totaled
 
Cauhey,If you could take posession of your HiLo you could strip it and sell many usable parts. Just a thought.

cahuey 10-21-2012 01:54 AM

I thought about doing that but I just don't have the time nor space to take that on. I can send you the adjuster's number if you want to make an offer for it.

Chris

sam 10-21-2012 11:19 PM

HiLo for parts.
 
I don't need any parts. Thanks for the offer.

ezfreddy 11-07-2012 09:04 PM

97 hilo breeze 21 ft
 
My model has the top that when in the down position extends over the battery box making it hard to access the batterys to jump, I do have the manual jack on the pump but had to make a handle for it as previous owner didnt supply it when i purchased it, i jacked it manually once and it did work just was alot of pumping, after that i installed on the tongue a quick coupler gray 12volt connector with rubber cover that if i ever need i have a 20 ft set of jumper cables i can quick connect to it,

Debby l 03-23-2014 11:23 AM

1990 hi lo
 
We bought bought a 1990 yesterday it went up and down great when we bought it we had to pull it 25 miles home raised it now it says to lower it it's locked . What can we do? Thank you

PopRichie77 03-23-2014 11:31 AM

First you should never tow a Hi-Lo with the top up as damage to the cable system can result. To get it off the safety bar, push the button and raise the top a little, the pump will make noise this is normal, now pull the safety release cable and hold it out, at the same time push the button for the top to go down, after it is a foot or so down ,you can then release the safety cable and continue to lower the top.
If it has a master switch next the up down switch be sure it is in the correct position, or the top will not go up or down.

Debby l 03-23-2014 12:12 PM

No we pulled it down the wind was about 60 miles. Here in amarillo we will try what you said hope it works thanks

JackandJanet 03-23-2014 12:50 PM

Debby, I think we're all confused. Did you tow it with the top raised or not? As PopRichie said, NEVER tow it with the top raised or damage MAY result.

Next, how does the trailer say, "It's locked?" There is no indicator in HiLos that tell you if the top is locked or not. As Pop said, try raising the top a bit more - you should hear the motor running when you do this. If you don't hear the motor, the Master switch (a 3-position switch next to the raise/lower switch) is in the wrong position, try moving that switch and try raising the top again. Once you get the top lifted all the way, pull out on the cable release to move the safety pin and move the raise/lower switch to the down position.

- Jack

RichR 03-23-2014 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Debby l (Post 23235)
We bought bought a 1990 yesterday it went up and down great when we bought it we had to pull it 25 miles home raised it now it says to lower it it's locked . What can we do? Thank you

In their defense. It was towed home, when home they raised it up but it would not go down. They didn't say they towed it home in the up position.

JackandJanet 03-23-2014 02:53 PM

Ah - I see. Some punctuation would have helped. :o I'm just not used to these "stream of consciousness" posts I guess.

- Jack

BGnewber 03-27-2014 04:50 PM

Manually Raise or Lower Hi Low
 
We just got a 1991 Hi Low Voyager. We saw on a informational video online that you could lower and raise manually using a pump thingy by the front hitch..but our trailer does not have anything like that there.....does anyone know about the Voyager and if it has a manual lift/lower component? :confused:


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