Update: I took the trailer down to Lafayette RV Repair (SW of Portland, Oregon) since they've done HiLo repairs in the past. They called back this morning with an estimate to repair the side wall: $4000 plus change. I doubt the insurance will cover this but we'll see.

If they don't cover it, I'll have State Farm pay me and I'll do the repair work myself.

Many thanks to so many on this forum for the helpful hints and pictures and words of encouragement.

Another update. The insurance company (State Farm) is going to repair the trailer. I'll need to come up with $100 to cover the deductible (ooooohh!!!) but it should be just about like new.

Next I need to find/buy one of those metal carports and park the HiLo under that. The carport would need to be able to carry a maximum 3ft of heavy wet snow. Any suggestions?

Getting side wall repaired.
 

Reviewed your previous posts on your dammage. Make sure the dealer is going to use 1 inch of styrofoam then 1/4 of underlay and 1/8 vinyl sheeting. The most important aspect is that all the layers will be laminated together. This is how JR in Ohio does the repairs. Make sure they are going to have the equipment to laminate all the layers together. two part epoxy is to be used. How much of a warranty is given JR gives one year. Really quize the dealer exactly how they are going to do repairs. In other words compare apples to apples. Get the exact materials and steps the HiLo dealer will use in the repair. No laminate then you will have to talk with State farm about transporting the RV to JR in Ohio. The ins. rep may have to talk to JR directly. When you get the trailer repaired then I would highly suggest you purchase a cover suitable for your climate as well as a carport. Protect your investment. Forgot a few things, JR treats the fiberglass with a sealer(interior and he treats all the metal frame with a metal primmer and metal paint. Make sure your dealer will do this. Let us know how you make out with this new information. We did our own restoration on our 1990 Classic HiLo.

Another update: the repair shop called and said that the repair estimate is going to double because the frame is rusted out and they can't fasten anything to it. That would have to weld in some new framing. Not good. It may be considered totaled at this point :-(

Cahuey
looking at the damage pics from the outside, obviously there are serious damage on the inside. On your last post you mention that the repair facility said there is some frame damage !!! and the price is going to be higher (surprise!!)
if they remove the outside skin and the inner layer then they will be right at the frame, which is simple square tubing (nothing easier to repair than square tubing), I have worked with steel tubing and have done a lot of welding, any good metal welder can repair it, its not rocket science...
if it was mine I would take the trailer with the skin removed to a metal repair shop and repair the frame part and then take it to the RV repair facility to complete the rest.

Getting trailer repaired.
 

I think our HiLo dealer has one of the workers that does the welding in the shop. It might be possible to get a mobile welding service to come on site for the repairs. After the welding is done it is very important to treat all rusty metal with a primmer and rustoleum paint. This is so the rust won't come through the new paneling. Keep us posted.

Well, we went and removed all of our personal belongings from the trailer this afternoon. Sad to see it in such shape. But State Farm has declared it totaled ($8100 repair estimate) so they're sending me a check for $7300 - their calculated value. If I had more time I'd bring it home and fix it up myself but there's just too much I'm behind on right now. Kinda sad to say goodbye to it. Some nice memories in there.

Thanks so much to everyone with your help and suggestions. I appreciate it more than you know.

Cheers,
Chris

Sorry to hear it.

Sorry to see another one of these wonderful trailer leave. every time I show my trailer to friends, and they see the ease the Hi-Lo lowers and goes up so easily, you should see the amazement in their face, almost like I performed a magic trick in front of them and they ask if any other company has the same concept, and I tell them as far as I know, this is the only one. next thing I know they are thinking of finding one and going into the world of traveling and camping.
with gas prices as high as it has ever been, its the smartest trailer to have, and in my opinion it will be like your favorite collector car in few years.

HiLo totaled
 

Cauhey,If you could take posession of your HiLo you could strip it and sell many usable parts. Just a thought.

I thought about doing that but I just don't have the time nor space to take that on. I can send you the adjuster's number if you want to make an offer for it.

Chris

HiLo for parts.
 

I don't need any parts. Thanks for the offer.

97 hilo breeze 21 ft
 

My model has the top that when in the down position extends over the battery box making it hard to access the batterys to jump, I do have the manual jack on the pump but had to make a handle for it as previous owner didnt supply it when i purchased it, i jacked it manually once and it did work just was alot of pumping, after that i installed on the tongue a quick coupler gray 12volt connector with rubber cover that if i ever need i have a 20 ft set of jumper cables i can quick connect to it,

1990 hi lo
 

We bought bought a 1990 yesterday it went up and down great when we bought it we had to pull it 25 miles home raised it now it says to lower it it's locked . What can we do? Thank you

First you should never tow a Hi-Lo with the top up as damage to the cable system can result. To get it off the safety bar, push the button and raise the top a little, the pump will make noise this is normal, now pull the safety release cable and hold it out, at the same time push the button for the top to go down, after it is a foot or so down ,you can then release the safety cable and continue to lower the top.
If it has a master switch next the up down switch be sure it is in the correct position, or the top will not go up or down.

No we pulled it down the wind was about 60 miles. Here in amarillo we will try what you said hope it works thanks

Debby, I think we're all confused. Did you tow it with the top raised or not? As PopRichie said, NEVER tow it with the top raised or damage MAY result.

Next, how does the trailer say, "It's locked?" There is no indicator in HiLos that tell you if the top is locked or not. As Pop said, try raising the top a bit more - you should hear the motor running when you do this. If you don't hear the motor, the Master switch (a 3-position switch next to the raise/lower switch) is in the wrong position, try moving that switch and try raising the top again. Once you get the top lifted all the way, pull out on the cable release to move the safety pin and move the raise/lower switch to the down position.

- Jack

In their defense. It was towed home, when home they raised it up but it would not go down. They didn't say they towed it home in the up position.

Ah - I see. Some punctuation would have helped. :o I'm just not used to these "stream of consciousness" posts I guess.

- Jack

Manually Raise or Lower Hi Low
 

We just got a 1991 Hi Low Voyager. We saw on a informational video online that you could lower and raise manually using a pump thingy by the front hitch..but our trailer does not have anything like that there.....does anyone know about the Voyager and if it has a manual lift/lower component? :confused: