My New 200 Watt Solar Installation (Now 300 Watts)
 

OK! Took me longer than I expected (everything seems to take longer now that I'm 74) but I've successfully installed two 100 Watt panels on the roof of my 1707T trailer and completed the wiring.

The installation is complicated by the fact that our trailers "telescope". If they didn't, you could mount the charge controller on any handy vertical surface and run wiring down any suitable path to the "basement". But, since I wanted the controller and charging monitor near eye level, I was limited in my options.

I ultimately decided on mounting the controller on the side of the left side cabinet with the charging monitor on the cabinet's front. The reason I chose this location is because there is already a hole in the roof above it where the TV antenna coax enters. I thought I could bring the panel wires in through the same hole.

This picture shows the silicone I had to remove to gain access to the entry point. I've got it a bit more than half removed in the picture and you can see the hole it was covering.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...8490d0366c.jpg

Here's the entry point with all silicone removed.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...76978e47ac.jpg

I pulled the antenna wire out of the hole and enlarged it slightly so that the two 1/4" PV 10 gauge wires would fit in along with the antenna wire once it was reinstalled.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...e72c05f0d5.jpg

I added a plastic "grommet" like thing into the hole to keep the metal roof from cutting the wires but I didn't take a picture of that sorry!

The left side of the cabinet had the outlet for the TV antenna and a "cigarette lighter socket" on a plate that I've removed here. You can see the two solar cables inside the cabinet. I'll run them under the floor of the cabinet, which you can see slightly raised. It was stapled in.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...05e615ffb0.jpg

I'm limited to four pictures per post, so this will be "continued".

- Jack

Solar Panel Installation - Part 2
 

This next picture shows the backside of the power monitor meter that I'm going to mount on the right side of the cabinet. It comes with a mounting plate, but it will fit exactly inside the two vertical frames, so I'll mount it there and I had to cut out a hole for the backside of the meter. The electrical cable to the meter will run underneath the cabinet floor too.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...061a3c7923.jpg

The meter fits nicely. You can see the two input wires from the solar panels extending out holes in the bottom right side of the cabinet here too.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...81e6190075.jpg

Here's the MPPT charge controller mounted on the right side of the cabinet.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...32d82b9414.jpg

It does not interfere with the bunk, and you can see the LEDs and the small status window on its front when you put your head under the bunk. The size of the controller kept it from being mounted on the wall of the upper half. It would not clear the lower half when the top is lowered and it could not be mounted at the ceiling because of needed ventilation clearances. I color-coded the PV wiring with shrink tubing so that I wouldn't hook up anything wrong.

Before attaching the solar panels, I decided on their placement. As you see, they fit between the seams near the front of the trailer, and, there is actually room for two more of them if wanted. I wanted to place them in the front to minimize interference from other things on the roof.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...e7b997ef6f.jpg

Continued in the next post.

- Jack

Solar Panel Installation - Part 3
 

Here's what the meter looks like when "powered up". The display you see is the battery voltage and charging current. The current is zero, because the panels are not connected yet. The voltage is above 12.7 because I just disconnected the Battery Minder I keep plugged in at home.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...bbf63baee1.jpg

The meter can also be set to show input voltage and current from the solar panels, Current and voltage to a "load" like an inverter if connected and some other things.

The next picture shows the only part of the installation that is less than optimum. I have to run the battery charging wires down from the cabinet to the "basement" and they can't be concealed.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...8d9f5efea2.jpg

I removed the couch cushions and the plywood under the seat to run the wires down to the floor under the couch.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...bc0e28315d.jpg

Then, I ran the wires next to the wall along the floor and under the hot water tank. Having the area exposed made this easy.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...c33bb6debf.jpg

One more post and we're done!

- Jack

Solar Panel Installation - Part 4
 

I drilled two holes in the floor in front of the hot water tank next to the fresh water tank inlet so that I could run the battery charging wires out to the battery box.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...719fbdd48d.jpg

I sealed those holes with Lexel, but I didn't take a picture of that.

The wires to the batteries are also color-coded, red for "+" and white for "-". You can see an open fuse holder in the red line over the left hand battery. I installed a 15 Amp fuse there, which should be about right. The max current I should get is about 10 Amps. The controller is rated for 20 Amps.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...1a9599a412.jpg

I secured the panels to the top of the trailer with Eternabond tape. The panels also have six grommet holes each for screw mounting, but I don't think they will be needed. The Eternabond is really sticky stuff! I also anchored the electrical lines down to the roof with the same tape. I sealed the hole in the roof with Lexel, and you can see the "mound" of it at the end of the PV wires, to the right of the air conditioner.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...93aa62121c.jpg

With the couch floor back in place and the cushions back on, the installation looks pretty good to me.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...a093f5a795.jpg

The wire from the cabinet simply flexes down onto the back of the couch when the top is lowered. It works much like the wire bundle from the top to the bottom half of the trailer that's in the bathroom.

So, that's it!. I've got the trailer under a metal shelter, so the panels are shaded. Even so, the meter shows the batteries receiving 0.3 Amps. Since the batteries are already fully charged, it's possible the potential current is even higher. The controller prevents overcharging by going into "float" mode when the batteries are charged.

Hope this has been instructional. Looking forward to seeing how things work during an actual camping trip.

- Jack

nice writeup, I'm thinking about going this direction for the season as well. I don't do a lot of camping at campgrounds with hookups

Thanks, guitarman. I'm hoping it will reduce our reliance on the generator we have.

Just as an aside, I connected the two panels in series. This, of course doubles the voltage to the charge controller but it keeps the Amperage lower over those wires. I used 10 gauge PV wire throughout and there is a total run of about 25 feet from the panels to the batteries. Series connections are also simpler than parallel at the panels themselves.

Additionally, I was concerned that a parallel hookup of the panels might put reverse voltage on one of them if one was in shade and the other was in sunlight. A series hookup keeps the current flow moving in the right direction through them.

The series hookup is possible with an MPPT charge controller, but I don't think it would be with a cheaper PWM controller. The MPPT controller provides more efficient and controlled battery charging too.

The panels, controller, PV wire, connectors and meter are all products that can be bought from Renogy.com, but I found them at considerable savings through Amazon and NewEgg (for the meter).

- Jack

Thanks for the photos and detailed description, Jack- looks nice!!! Please give us a performance report after you've used it a few times! :D

Thanks, Greg - I WILL be back with user feedback. Just don't expect it any time soon.

RichR asked me a question in a PM that made me aware that I should have told you all exactly what components I used in this project. So, here they are:

1. The panels are Renogy 100W Bendable Panels: Amazon.com : Renogy® 100W Monocrystalline Bendable Solar Panel : Patio, Lawn & Garden. I paid $197 each for them when I ordered them from Amazon.
2. The charge controller is Renogy's 20W MPPT model: Amazon.com : RENOGY® Tracer 20Amp Negative grounded MPPT Charge Controller 100VDC Input 2210RN : Renewable Energy Charge Controllers : Patio, Lawn & Garden. This was the cheapest source I could find. I also bought the kit of 5 pairs of MC4 connectors you see on this page too.
3. I found the meter at the lowest price here: Remote LCD Meter MT-5 Meter for Tracer MPPT solar charge controller Meter-5 - Newegg.com. But, I see there are even cheaper sources now. It was shipped (free) from China.
4. The PV cable and Eternabond tape were also bought from Amazon: Amazon.com: 50' solar cable Bulk Black #10 AWG 1000 volt PV Wire with XLPE insulation: Industrial & Scientific and Amazon.com: EternaBond RSW-4-50 White Roof Seal: Automotive

All the other small stuff was purchased locally.

The panels are really nice. They are lightweight, easy to work with and apparently very efficient and durable. I found a reference online for a similar product that said you could walk on them and a video showing two people DANCING on ones like these! I don't plan to do any of that.

Anyway, I think that gives you all you need to know about this project and I'll be back in the summer with a report on how it all works.

- Jack

Great write up, Jack. I'm not sure I understand the trade offs between parrelel and series, as I would think the parrelel would provide the additional amps to re-fill the batterey quicker. But, I trust your engineering.

Excellent question, sir! Here's how it goes:

The solar panels put out a "given" Wattage, depending on the amount of sunlight they receive. Under optimum conditions, they produce 100 Watts each. Now, Watts is a derived value, computed by multiplying Volts times Amps. The panels can generate 5.7 Amps at 17.7 Volts under optimum conditions which translates to 100.89 Watts.

If you hook the panels in series, the Voltage is doubled while the Amperage stays at 5.7. If you hook them in parallel, the Amperage doubles and the Voltage stays at 17.7 (I'm just using optimum condition figures here, under less than optimum conditions, the Voltage drops, but the Amperage stays relatively constant.)

So, in EITHER case, the same Wattage (about 200 under optimum conditions) gets to the charger controller. But, having the panels in series reduces the electrical loss from resistance in the wires between the panels and the controller since the Amperage is cut in half.

The lower the Voltage, the higher the current has to be to carry a given Wattage and that needs larger wires. Military vehicles are generally 24 Volt systems which allows them to use smaller gauge wiring.

Now the MPPT controller exercises its magic and it reduces the incoming Voltage to a safe level for battery charging - about 13.5-14.5 depending on the state of battery charge. But, it has 200 Watts to "play" with, so, at 14.5 V, it could theoretically send about 13.8 Amps to the battery! It probably never will come close to that level under actual conditions, but the higher Amperage you spoke of into the battery is still there, while reducing line losses over some of the distance between the panels and the battery. In other words, I've made more power (Watts) available to the controller by having the panels in series.

I used this calculator: Wire sizing calculator for Solar Panel Arrays to satisfy myself that the 10 gauge wire I used from the controller to the batteries was adequate. That run is 16-17 feet, and, I assumed a 12V system at 10 Amps there. The run into the controller is 8-9 feet and is calculated using 24V and 5A. I used 10 gauge wire there too. If the Amperage over the entire 25 ft run was 10 A, I would have needed 9 gauge wire at 12 V to keep the losses under 3%.

The only two other considerations were simpler (less) wiring at the panels to connect them in series and I wanted to avoid a potential reverse current/Voltage issue on a shaded panel, which could happen if they were in parallel. I don't really know if the reverse current situation is an actual problem, but it won't happen with them in series.

Finally, I deliberately mounted the panels some distance apart to minimize the possibility of them BOTH being shaded. It could still happen, of course.

These considerations are why you need heavy gauge wire in your tow vehicle from the alternator to the trailer charging tap at the trailer plug too. The Voltage is only about 14V but you're trying to push a high Amperage through to charge the batteries and run the refrigerator. That circuit is normally fused at 30 A.

- Jack

Got it. I forgot about the MPPT controller kicking the amperage, which I had read about when I looked up that controller. Otherwise, my way of thinking is if I have a panel that puts out 5.7 amps under optimal conditions then I am able to put 5.7 amps back into my battery (less-actually) per hour of optimal conditions. With two, Wired in parallel, I would get closer to the neighborhood of ten amps going in per hour of optimal sunlight. But, with THAT controller, I can have the best of both worlds, including the higher voltage for optimal charging (as someone once reminded me in a book- it is VOLTAGE that recharges the battery). Thanks- I learned something.

I am still interested in a more portable system that allows me to place the panels out of shade, as many of the places I park have a lot of it. That requires longer cable runs and this approach would certainly help solve the problem of losing voltage because of it. THEFT, is, of course, another issue but there are ways of discouraging that- at least to a degree.

By the way- I just got back from Phoenix area with a side trip to Sedona----a lot of sun out there . I liked it! And Sedona was gorgeous. I'd never been there. 7deg back here in Wisconsin today. Im trying to plan my first ever "just hitch up the trailer and go" trip in Winter and head to Florida at the beginning of March…..but it looks like the campground situation is already filling up down there. I may have to throw my obsessive planning strategies to the wind and make an adventure out of it!

Good camping.

Rick

Just to clarify something - I DID NOT attach the wires from the controller to the batteries to the top half of the trailer in any way. I don't see how that would be possible and it's one of the things that make installation of solar panels on a telescoping trailer more difficult.

I simply extended them from the cabinet down to the lower half and anchored them there. I also wrapped them with spiral wrap to make the installation a bit neater. When the top is lowered, the wires buckle and form a loop that extends out into the trailer space. Here's a picture with the top about halfway down so you can see how it works:
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/atta...31aef10725.jpg

- Jack

Jack,

Thanks for posting a good tutorial. I just picked up an 80 watt panel with controller for keeping the batteries topped up during storage, and to help out a little while camping. I have been looking at 2 to 3 panels for a hard install on the roof. 300 watts could be possible. That would certainly be enough to camp off grid. That is a future project. Now to get camping.

Jack

Does that power meter have a shunt? If you wanted to measure charge and discharge simultaneously would you have to install a second meter??

Rick, you've asked a question that I can't answer with certainty and I don't know if it has a shunt. It did not come with an internal circuit diagram. In fact, the device and its instruction manual are from China, so you can guess how informative the manual is.

I'm pretty sure the "load current and voltage" that the meter can measure is taken from the load taps on the MPPT controller, which are there mostly to connect something like an inverter directly to the controller. I don't ever intend to use an inverter this way, so, I have not hooked it up to see. I know it's the third function in the meter though, so you simply push one of the arrow buttons till it shows up.

I don't see how you could hook a second meter to the controller. It has only one RJ45 meter outlet tap and I don't know if a "splitter device" would work at all.

I really just got the meter so I could monitor the charging voltage and current. Though, I DO know it will also show me battery capacity in AH, battery capacity percentage and discharging accumulation, which would be an indirect measure of discharge. Again, these readings are available by simply pushing an arrow button. I guess, the first time I take it camping, I'll check these out.

- Jack

Thanks, Jack

I've always wanted a meter system set up for monitoring amp hours used/ amp hours put back but most of what is out there is pretty expensive and use complicated shunt set-ups, at least from my limited diy abilities. That little meter I posted about last year was handy for monitoring what I was getting from my panel to the batterey as long as I had it wired between the controller and batterey. However- I would have needed at least three more to monitor what I was getting from my tow vehicle and what I was getting from charging from shore power and, then, what I using in a day. I know larger rigs and boats tend to have all this wired in and incorporated in one or two meters but they usually involved "shunt boards" with a different wiring system for each function. Anyway- you are correct in stating the obvious that its pretty simple to guesstimate useage by monitoring batterey voltage.....so my guess is your meter is functions and is wired much the same as the little after market "Watts up" one I got------ though it likely works better. :)

A battery monitor works from the negative battery cable. It will get the power to operate itself from the positive battery terminal. The shunt is mounted between the negative battery cable and the ground connection bus. It will measure all current flowing into and out of the batteries. They will usually show state of charge in percentage. Any appliance such as a propane detector that is connected directly to the battery will not be reflected in power consumed.

Balmar has just come out with the smart gauge battery monitor that uses no shunt. It is an easier install. It came out after I installed my battery monitors.

https://www.balmar.net/PDF/SMARTGAUGE%20MANUAL.pdf

I have the same meter. There is no shunt. The meter is actually just a remote display. It is connected to the charge controller using an ethernet cable. It will not tell you how much power you are using unless you use the "Load" connection on the controller.

Using that load connection is not feasible since it is limited to 10 amps for my 10 amp controller, maybe 20 amps for Jacks 20 amp charger. So since the trailer's 12V system is connected directly to the battery, the controller has no way of knowing how much power is being drawn from it. You can however infer the power draw by watching the power going into the battery. Once the battery is fully charged the current going into it drops to zero - even though the panels are ready to supply 200W. Turn something on so that power is drawn from the battery and the controller will start putting some energy into the battery. Watching this was my first indication that the 12V setting in my fridge quit working. There was absolutely no change in current when the fridge was on vs off. But turn on the bathroom fan and you can see it pulling almost three amps.

One last comment. I purchased my 10 amp MPPT controller when I had only one panel. Then I decided two panels would be better - which is very true - but in mid-day sun the most energy I can put into the batteries is 10 amps. 14V x 10 amps is only 140W. I'm losing 60W due to the limit of the charge controller*.

The cool thing is that even after the sun went down (behind the mountain) I had just shy of 2 amps going into the battery.

*actually not quite that much. Since my panels are flat, not angled towards the Sun, they are always in a sub optimal position. Considering that I am at 48 degrees latitude, my panels were about 45 degrees from the Sun. That means that they "see" about 70% as much as they would if they were perfectly oriented. 200W x 70% is 140W. Pretty much exactly was I was getting from them. So I guess my 10 amp controller is okay if I never point my panels at the Sun. As we approach the summer solstice the Sun will be getting higher in the sky, if I wanted to get every last bit of power from my setup a larger controller would be required.

Update on My Solar Power Installation
 

We just got back from the first camping trip we've been able to take this year, and my first test of the 200W solar panel installation on our trailer.

I'm happy to report it has been an unqualified success! We left on a Wednesday and returned on Wednesday the following week, so we were out eight days. We were traveling about five hours each of four days and I used DC power to the refrigerator during our travels. Each travel day included a stop for lunch that lasted maybe 45 minutes.

We traveled through northern Arizona to Moab, Utah, where we visited Arches National Park and Canyonlands. Our midway stops to and from Moab were at Navaho National Monument. Camping was all "dry" (boondock) camping with no hookups, in fact, we had to get our water from the Arches Visitor Center which we passed during each visit there. We used the furnace the first night and the next morning because it was cold. The refrigerator fan was always on and the FanTastic Fan I installed on our trailer was operating automatically anytime we were camped. Many of you know that I've replaced all lighting with LEDs, so our nighttime useage is fairly low. However, we DID watch a DVD movie two nights using the trailer's video player. Other electrical loads included raising the top at each campsite and use of the tongue jack to hookup and unhook.

I did NOT use the generator at all during this trip. When the sun was at a peak, I recorded 8.2 Amps of charging current to the batteries, but there was always SOME input as long as the sky was light. I'd see about 0.1A shortly after the sun came up and it would increase steadily as the sun got higher. To be fair, our camping sites were fairly exposed, and, except for the first travel day, the sky was almost completely clear.

But, the solar panels were delivering power to the batteries while we were on the road, reducing the dependence on my truck's alternator.

The system was completely independent. My only interface was to look at the charging meter now and then (with a big smile on my face).

While 8.2A may seem low for a 200W system, it was almost exactly what I expected. I've learned that solar panels seem to generally deliver about 1/2 their rated output in actual use. And, as W9GFO posted above, the panels are not really oriented optimally with respect to the sun. In addition, the controller actually reduces the charging current as the batteries approach full charge, to prevent overcharging.

To sum up: The installed system costed less than my generator, required no attention on my part, and actually kept the batteries at an overall higher state of charge than a morning and evening generator run did.

I recommend this setup to anyone wanting to be off the grid while camping!

- Jack

Thanks for the follow-up report, Jack, and glad you were finally able to get some camping in!

So if you're interested in selling your generator now . . . :D

NOOO - I'll still take it as a backup, and, I need it if I want to inflate my tires with my 110V tire pump or if Janet decides she just has to use her hair dryer. I DO have a low power inverter, but it's not up to the draw of the hair dryer.

However, I appreciate the offer - even though I know you were not expecting me to say "yes". ;)

It was really pleasant not having to mess with the generator every day.

- Jack

Thanks for the report, Jack. Extremely useful information. Please post a trip report with pictures.:)

I will, Don, and thanks. I took 170 pictures, so I need to go through them (the problem with digital).

It was an extremely happy trip, no problems encountered whatsoever. My new EcoBoost F150 towed the trailer like a dream and we had some good conversations with fellow campers and hikers.

- Jack

That's what I figured. :) I do want to get a small, quiet generator at some point but haven't figured out the logistics of hauling it and several gallons of gasoline. I don't like the idea of having them inside the Tahoe, or the trailer. A pickup would make things so much easier! I also want to explore adding solar, so your posts are always interesting to read. Thanks!

Greg, you could put the gas cans on a cargo carrier, possibly on your Tahoe's back bumper or, maybe secure them to the rear bumper of the camper. I only take two, one gallon plastic gas containers with me when we go camping. My 1000W generator uses so little gas that this usually lasts, and if it doesn't, I just refill one or both when I add gas to my truck.

The modern gas containers seem to have non-venting caps, and I've not worried too much about gas vapors.

I DO put the generator in the bed of my pickup when on the road, but when camping, I usually lock it in the trailer when we're away. The generator seems to be well sealed, and I've never smelled gasoline fumes in the trailer upon our return. This trip though, I never moved the gas containers or the generator out of the bed of my truck.

- Jack

Thank you Jack, for posting so much useful information on your solar panel project.

I put in an independent solar bank for my home several years back,
and it's been a few years since I researched controllers.

I've always gone back and forth in my mind, what form of panel would be most ideal for a trailer,
mono or polycrystalline, vs Thin Film.
You obviously do your research, and the surface mount panels you used
certainly create no air drag and are far more aesthetic than many of the bolt on,
accessory and after-market installations I see being done by many trailer manufacturers.

I will be curious to know in time, if the EternaBond tape lives up to it's reputation.

For another DIY project I've wondered if anyone has ever seen
a person using rollable solar panels, such as one made by PowerFilmSolar
Rollable Solar Panels | Power Film - PowerFilm Solar

- as a modification and/or replacement for their trailer awning.
I know the military has used them as a part of temporary shade screens.

Thank you again,
GoCamp

GoCamp,

I'm not sure if this is what you mean by "rollable" solar panels but you may want to check out this blog post on the "Gone With The Wynns" site. Lots of good info on their site regarding solar and other RV info:

Flexible RV Solar Issues Revealed - Our One Year Review

Greg:
I was thinking more of the concept of incorporating something
like this "off the shelf" product:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...technical-data

into an appropriate form of an existing,
or after-market, roll up awning.

GoCamp

GoCamp, I'm sure the rollable panels will work, but I'm not at all impressed with the specs. The one you posted from Amazon produces only 28 Watts and, has more surface area than the ones I used. Plus it is EXPENSIVE! Mounting on the awning would set it at an even less optimum angle than flat on the roof in most cases. As I said in earlier posts, I doubt you will ever see more than about 50% of the "rated" output from a solar panel, so I'd expect about 1 Amp from these under full sun. I get a little over 4 Amps from each of mine, they're smaller, costed less, and, produce power when I'm traveling. Mounting them on an awning would mean you could only see power when camped. I also think mounting on the awning would be a trickier job than putting them on the roof.

My EternaBond tape shows NO degradation so far. I think it will truly be "eternal", but if not, I can always replace it easily.

Greg, that was a good link to the Wynns site. I had read their initial blog and watched their video before I ordered my panels. His "issues" don't seem a deal breaker to me. As long as the panels continue to produce power, I don't really care if they accumulate scratches or gouges. But, since our trailers "TowLow", I suspect that will be minimized. I have not checked to see if mine are "cupping" yet, but I will. I will be wiping the dust off mine after I get the trailer cleaned up inside. And, I think I can do it without adding too much damage. I DO know that dirt buildup is a major source of loss of power in solar panels though.

Personally, since we very rarely camp at a place with hookups, I think my panels have more than earned their place on my trailer.

- Jack

perfect
 

Just wanted to say thanks for this post! (even if it is 6 years later)
I'm about to instal a 100watt panel on my 2005 17' Towlite and this is just what I needed. Will post photos once complete.

Hi and welcome, montana. It wasn't 6 years, but my panels have been on a year now and are doing fine.

I'd recommend you give serious thought to adding an additional 100 Watt panel to your project. It's not that much more difficult to install two rather than one and you'll be much happier with the outcome, in my opinion.

I doubt you will ever see much over 4 Amps with a single 100 Watt panel. That CAN maintain your battery(s) if you are very careful with their use and have good sunlight during the day, but you will have no leeway if you are in the shade or otherwise solar limited. The "100 Watt" rating is just not an output that you see in actual use. I think it is closer to 50 Watts, real world, no matter what quality panels you buy. I've learned this from personal experience in previous experiments and in talking with people who have installed solar on their homes.

Regardless, have fun with your project and look forward to seeing your pictures.

- Jack

In Progress
 

We're sticking with the 100W for now, assuming we could add a second panel without much effort in future. Anyways, here's the update!

The panel is mounted and I'll share photos of that next.

Mounting was not as straightforward as anticipated. I removed the TV antenna and placed the panel to cover the filled screw holes from the antenna mount. I also ran the wires through an enlarged coax hole.

Not knowing the support structure, and basing my assumption on the overall feeling solid nature of the roof, I wrongly assumed I could attached the panel anywhere. Luckelly 1 of my 8 mounting screws found a solid attachment... The rest, I learned, went through the aluminum/wood laminate and spun in the styrofoam insulation.

I put a bed of Lexel under each mount before attaching with screws. Rather than moving the panel. I'm going to use pop rivets to attach the mounts to the roof top more securely. (I'm curious what others think of this idea)

In the meantime I ran the wires and hooked everything up.

Here's an album showing where I ran the wires and mounted the charge controller. I took several cues from you, but opted to run the wire through the top cabinets instead the bottom. I'm not sure why I did this.
https://imgur.com/a/89lxi

Everything is mostly hooked up and I'm making energy (this feels pretty cool). I didn't measure amps, but will report back with that and the res of my photos.

Using a Komaes 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline panel, by the way.

Jack, have you had the trailer out this year, and if so, are the panels still performing as expected? I would like to add flexible panels to our unit but Renogy no longer has the panels available.:confused:

Hi Garry - We just got back from a trip to Rocky Mountain National Park, and yes, the panels are still working beautifully. At our last overnight stop, back in Northern Arizona, I recorded 13.1V and 11.4 Amps in the afternoon sun. And, the panels had a fairly good layer of dirt on them too!

The EternaBond tape is holding up perfectly and the panels are still solidly attached to the roof.

I noticed that Renogy had stopped offering the flexible panels, but have seen the same ones available from other sources. I think I just Googled "flexible solar panels". It is SO much easier attaching these lightweight panels with tape rather than having to use the screws that are necessary with the tempered glass, aluminum framed panels.

Montana, I don't have a good feeling about blind rivets for attaching your kind of panel. I don't think they're strong enough and I would not trust the strength of the aluminum sheeting on the roof either. If you could put a bolt through the aluminum and plywood, then secure it with a fender washer and bolt, I think it would be much better. Unfortunately, you would have to make fairly large holes in your ceiling to do this. Possibly, a Molly Toggle Bolt would work too.

Montana, the pictures of the interior look good. The only reason I went under the bottom of the cabinet was so that I could hide the wires under the cabinet floor.

Glad to hear the panels are still working out great. My son questioned the idea of EternBond tape and heat build up under the panels, but I noticed Go Power supports taped down panels. When the time comes that I do install panels (cooler weather) I would like to bounce my ideas on installation off of you. With a 27T and tip out there are limited places to mount the charge controller and meter.:D

Jack, when we purchased our 2009 Hi-Lo Classic, it came with a very small solar panel on the roof (probably only about 20 watts) and controller installed back of the refrigerator. Tom at the Hi-Lo factory told us it was installed to keep our battery trickle-charged (or topped off) during storage. Since we live in somewhat milder temperatures, we store the Hi-Lo outside in a carport comprising a white canopy raised and framed on poles. The canopy does not inhibit the sun from reaching the solar panel. My question is can the same controller behind the refrigerator be used if we decide to significantly increase the size (or watts) of the solar panel(s)? As you can tell, I know very little about this technology.

Dee
Summerville, SC

Dee, I doubt it. The panel you are talking about is a 15 Watt panel and yes, it CAN trickle charge the battery, but that's about all. I think it is mostly "cosmetic". It is a "poly-crystalline" type panel and the controller you have has a very low Amp rating and marginal capability.

If you want to upgrade like I did, you need mono-crystalline panels and would recommend no less than 200 Watts like I installed. With that output, a 20 Amp controller would also be sufficient (I've only seen a max of 11.4 Amps with my panels). But, I would recommend you only consider a MPPT controller, rather than the PWM controllers that cost about half as much.

The two panels and the controller should cost in the neighborhood of $500. You would have to upgrade the wiring too though, but that is a minor expense.

- Jack

Jack, thanks for the information. We are tossing the solar panel idea around for trips to the mountains since there are more dry camping campgrounds up there in great locations than campgrounds with services.

Dee

Yup! That's exactly why I put panels on my trailer. We almost NEVER camp in places with hookups - we actually try to avoid them. My generator works and is very quiet, but it has to be run during "generator hours". I haven't used it at all in the last two years.

My total panel installation actually cost less than my 1000 Watt Honda generator, it works all day with NO input or attention from me and, it doesn't use any gas!

- Jack

Up north we still have lots of trees and a much steeper angle to grab the sun. So- i still need to come up with a removable panel that I can detach and place where I need to. I'll figure it out, eventually. But, for where you are at most the year- I agree it is the best solution.

Rick