I’ve been doing lots of work on the camper lately, the last time I was in it I had the furnace on. It came up to temp and turned off. It didn’t dawn on me it was still on. Temps warmed up and I cut the grass, dropped the roof down, and pulled the camper forward to mow the grass that was under it. I moved the camper back and left it down for the night. At some point though, I flipped the main switch and the furnace started with the top lowered!

I only figured this out because I now have one cracked pane of glass directly above the furnace. Took a second to figure it out when the heat kicked on today while I was in it. So I made two mistakes…Left the thermostat on and had the master switch on.

Glad the blinds were up or I could’ve woken to a camper fire.

I think a cutout switch would be appropriate, like my pop up has. Roof is down and electricity is cut off. Raise the roof and put the kitchen sink in its upright position, and the switch closes.

Or maybe a warning light of some sort. Boy do I feel dumb!

To lower it, you must have had the Master Switch to the position that disables the furnace. But, you almost had to have flipped that switch back to the Camping Position after lowering it. This would allow the furnace to relight. (And, I guess in re-reading your post you said that's what you did - but called it by a different name).

I'm not saying this to imply that you are stupid. I've made my share of mistakes too and have certainly left appliances on when leaving a camping site. I was lucky though, the Master Switch saved me. I've lowered the top onto things though, which caused damage I had to repair. I think we learn valuable lessons from our mistakes, as long as they don't kill us.

Thanks for having the courage to relate this incident to all of us. Don't beat yourself up about it either. Maybe your saga will help one of us avoid something similar.

I've got to learn to be more careful about putting the Master Switch to "Neutral" when I'm traveling or it's in storage. I tend to leave it in the Top Up/Down position when I'm not camping and that's not particularly smart either. I think it might allow the top to raise when underway if some other electrical fault happens.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew

Thanks Jack.

I figured it might help out a new owner like myself. I think I left the switch on after lowering the top and remembering I had left a light on over the dinette. I flipped the switch to check, and crawled in to turn it off. I think that’s when I left it on.

I’ll need to find out if the side pane can be replaced separately. It appears the outer gasket can be pulled out easily, but after that I’m not sure.

I’d also have to find someplace to cut a new piece of glass that has the two radius corners.

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We broke a window on our HiLo. Got DH too tight to the fence and crunch. Go into the HI Lo and take the screws out of the trim ring around the window. Have some outside of the ladder. On the outside gently pry around the window until it releases. A good time to see if any problems with your wall layers. Scrape old butyl tape off. Doesn;t have to be perfect. Rebutyl tape. insert window from the outside. Lexel caulk on the outside.

Thanks! I know the windows will be coming out at some point, but I also know when that happens I’ll be doing some more extensive work.

For now, I removed the cracked pane and made a template.

The glass measure 20-9/16” tall, 10-9/16” wide, and is a thickness of 1/8”. The corners have a 2-1/2” radius. The glass is tinted. On my unit it is not tempered and has no markings. It was adhered to the frame with clear silicone. Hope this helps someone else down the road! These measurements are for the 60x23 window units (mine are white) with 3 crank out lites at the center and stationary glass at each side.

-Nick

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I have ordered the glass online from OneDayGlass.com. I have used them before for a tempered refrigerator shelf that had cracked in transit and was super happy.

Their online tool is fantastic and takes into account almost every possible situation, including the basic curved edges I have.

$65 shipped for the glass. Tempered glass (same price as annealed) with etched tempered logo and light grey tint which should match my glass pretty well. I don’t think that’s bad at all.

I’ll let everyone know how it goes when it comes in next week.

-Nick