My be buying 97 22L
Are rebuilt kits available or need to piece it out for the cylinder to be rebuilt
No leaks now and want to keep it that way
Thanks

I haven't had to do this repair. Several forum members have removed and sent out to a hydraulic repair place. Maybe you will get lucky and never need this repair.

I had a cylinder on a 26 foot 1997 Classic HiLo, I ultimately had the cylinder rebuilt with no seals. In Fort Lauderdale because of the many uses of hydraulics in the marine, construction, and aviation we have several choices of companies that can rebuilt the cylinder since the ends screw off. At the same time I replaced the hydraulic lines to braided types. In more rural area you will find tractors from the 1920's on up using hydraulic. In my case the cylinder was removed and brought to the shops as well as the hoses for sizing purposes. I have Kubota tractor the bucket cylinders start to leak when the bucket is used as a bull dozer (replace all seals twice from various source other than original Kubota OEM which are rather expensive but still less than $100). If you do the work yourself the costs is minimal if the repair shop does it get a few quotes. The long and short is that there is nothing proprietary to the cylinders or rebuilding. You will notice the fluid leaking slowly unless you damage a hose. Good luck.

typo "with new seals" not no seals.

Hello buddy!
I just got done rebuilding my cylinder.
It was around 25 in parts and 100 in pain in the butt labor getting it off.
I replaced the old weak seals with industrial grade seals. I also upgraded to a good hydraulic fluid. It raises and lowers with great! I even left it mid lift for a week.

This is a SINGLE stage cylinder, rebuilding it is pretty easy if you are HANDY.
1978 Hi-lo 25ft

If you want help! Let me know I have a parts list! I also purchased an extra set!

I should I made a guide on how to do it.

Good Morning Hellbender,

Glad to hear the repair was somewhat easy. Would you be willing to share the part numbers for the seals you used along with any photos? Was your cylinder the single port or dual port?

I am interested in undertaking this repair and any info you have would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Hellbender,

I have a 1988 22ft Funcruiser that I refurbished a year or so ago. Hydrolics continue to function from new without problem to date, but I'm also very interested to see any pics you may have from your rebuild and also the parts list of seals that you used so we can be prepared .........

Thanks,
Peter

Yea! I will post a picture of the parts list tomorrow! . My cylinder has a single port.

Top left, main seal! The most important! 071hu2524008
Top right, wiper seal 07112002mcn
Bottom right. O ring for inside puck. 090113

You can call GPI klinger 806-274-7151 and they can forward you the parts. Like 15 bucks+ shipping

These parts are of way higher quality what most would put in!

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I've "stuck" this thread since it contains information that may be of use to all of us.

- Jack

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Hi Hellbender - I am gathering the parts for this job and wanted to confirm if there were any wear rings or other "serviceable" items inside the cylinder? I ask because in my research it appears there could be wear rings or other items inside that may need replacement.

Also, what tool did you use to remove the cylinder end cap?

Did you have to use anything special to get the piston back in the sleeve with the new, unworn seals?

Thanks in advance!

Yes! It has a few rubber items inside that need to be changed.
To get the cap off, it was pretty much the hardest part for me! You should only need basic tools. I used a flathead to get the like 1/2 of the wire out. Then vise grips to pull the rest. It is just a wire holding the cap on. If you use a vice to hold it, DO NOT EGG the shaft or you are SOL on fixing it.
The piston with slide in and out by hand. Replacing the seal is kind of tough but it can be done!
I did it all with flatheads. You got this!
If you are somewhat handy, you got this no problem.

Hi folks. First post after loads of research and reading. I purchased the lip seal spec'd above. The piston groove mics at 2.125" and the seal above ID is 2.0". I may try to stretch it on after heating anyway. The bore mics at 2.5 so we're okay there.
Some other things I question is the original piston seal. It looks to be a 2 piece. Inside against the piston is a BunaN band .32 height and there was another piece, maybe a PTFE cut seal. Hard to say as it mostly disintegrated when the piston was freed from the bore.
Desperately seeking advice and information. The ID of the piston groove is 2.125. I've looked at hundreds of U-cup seals of various configurations and some cut seals. Nothing looks to be a great solution. Maybe it's just my OCD. All suggestions appreciated.