While plugged in to 30 amp, is my new batt getting charged?
 

Basic, I know. Sorry, but when I am plugged into campsite 30 amp, is my new battery getting charged or not?

If not, do I need triccle charge to keep batt charged?

Thanks

jerry

Assuming the trailer has a converter/charger the battery is getting charged. The best way to tell if it charging is to test the battery voltage when not plugged into shore power, then plug it in and check the voltage. You should see a noticeable voltage increase. The charge voltage could reach 13.6 volts.
If you don't have a multi-meter you should get one.

Converter/charger?
 

Rich, not sure whether mine has one or not, so we attached motorcycle trickle charger to batt while plugged into 30 amp. This way, she will charge up fully, then sit at idle with batt fully charged to max. BTW we ran 110 power to charger from an outside trlr 110 outlet.

This will be sure fire. Nice slow charge. Batt should love it and cannot receive over charge

Jerry

Jerry

If you DO have a charger and you are running the trickle as well you might cause issues. Get a multi meter and set the dial for 20 volts and do what Rich says. I can't remember what year you have but I would be surprised if it does not have a charger.

Guys, where would my charger be located (if in fact mine has one)?

Prior owner had plug-in charger stored in batt compartment, just in front of resevour.

What does charger look like?

Unfortunately, I see nothing that resembles a charger.....but I'm in the dark here

HELP please

Jerry

As was mentioned to you in your other thread, look to see where the the shore power cord enters the trailer. Usually the power panel and the converter/charger are somewhere near there. The converter may be mounted in an area behind the breakers.

Your Funlite came with the standard 30 amp converter. I can't imagine that anyone would remove it.

I can't imagine anyone would remove the factory installed converter either, unless it failed. But RichR told you EXACTLY how to test if you are receiving a charge on the battery when plugged into shore power (or, when plugged into your tow vehicle with its ignition on, for that matter). You need to use a multimeter and check the voltage at the battery terminals. If you don't have one, borrow one from a friend or let the friend test this for you.

If the trailer is unplugged from a tow vehicle, your battery trickle charger, and shore power and everything in it is turned off, the battery voltage will probably be no higher than 12.7 V if everything has been that way for at least 24 hours. This is known as "resting voltage" and is what you see on a battery that is in good shape. If the voltage is significantly lower, say 12.3 V, the battery is probably weak and could need to be replaced. If it is higher than 12.7 V, it may not have been unplugged from a charging source long enough.

Now, plug your trailer into shore power so that the converter is getting power. Test the voltage at the battery terminals again. If it's higher, in the 13.5+ V range, your battery is being charged. You should see the same thing when plugged into your tow vehicle WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING! If not, your tow vehicle is not charging your trailer. And, of course, if you put your trickle charger on your battery, it should raise the voltage the same way.

A multimeter is a "must-have" troubleshooting device for electrical problems! You can find inexpensive ones (about $30) that are reliable at Home Depot or Ace Hardware. Stay away from the "super cheap" (less than $10) ones at Harbor Freight.

- Jack

A multi-meter is useful for so many things like the above, checking bulbs and fuses, and wires for breaks, etc. As Jack said, get a good one. It doesn't have to be the most expensive one either.

Nothing near or behind breakers, so I don't think I have one......Unfortunately

Did you try tracing where the wires go?


Try this, disconnect the battery by taking the positive wire off. Plug the trailer into shore power. If the inside lights light up you have a converter. Still the easiest thing to do is use a multi-meter as was explained earlier. You could also have a non-functioning converter.

Converter or not? Working converter?
 

Rich, thanks. I did trace incoming line into storage bin in left lower front and walla, there's a large black box with lots of wires.

So, just maybe I do have that converter

I will disconnect pos batt lead, connect to shore 30 amp power and see whether or not house lights come on

Thanks. I LOVE simple tests and HATE multimeters.

I f house lights come on, does this mean my converter is WORKING?

Jerry

I'm sorry Jerry, what is it that you hate about multimeters? The test Rich, hilltool and I told you about using a multimeter is MUCH simpler than disconnecting the battery.

Learn how to use a multimeter if you don't already know how. It is your very best friend when trying to resolve electrical issues. And, it will save you BIG bucks compared to having your electrical problems "fixed" by some repairman that you pay to do the job.

- Jack

Jack, my fault about not being able to use multimeter. Seems like a lot of settings. Confusing to me but prob something I NEED to get comfortable with.

I have close friend (retired VW mechanic) who uses my dusty multimeter to help on old motorcycles, cars, F250 and Hi-Lo. He's very good with electrical stuff, unlike me, but,you're right, I gotta get comfortable using multimeter.

Thanks

It should look similar to this. This is a "converter-charger" which converts AC power to DC and also charges your battery.

Jerry, thank you for putting up with me. I can come on strong at times and I apologize for that.

It's helpful to compare electrical circuits to plumbing (and this works pretty well for DC circuits like the ones in your trailer that are powered by the battery). Voltage is like pressure, it "forces" the electricity through the pipes (the wires). Current is like water volume or flow rate. And finally, resistance is what resists the flow of electricity, just as a small diameter pipe cuts down on the amount of water that gets through, a small diameter (large gauge number) wire cuts down on the amount of current that gets through.

Your multimeter allows you to measure these things. Voltage is probably the easiest one to measure too. Have your friend show you how to measure the battery voltage with the trailer plugged into shore power and with it unplugged. You'll see how easy it is.

Again, thank you for not being offended, and, I've given myself a head-slap for my earlier post.

- Jack

Found it
 

Thanks Greg. I found mine under left front bench seat......finally. Will be testing shore hooked output and disconnected output with help from multimeter. BTW I just installed new group 24 batt, as old one was over 4 years old and not putting out under load.

Thanks for posting a pic, Greg

Jack, thank you for putting up with ME. Takes lots of patience. Just ask my good wife Patti. I am simply dense in some areas. Trying to learn this old Hi-Lo is all new to me.

Hang in there with me, Jack. I do appreciate all your help and advice, as well as all I've received from many other good members. No offence taken

After not believing my unit had a converter, I now know absolutely for sure that I DO have one.

Now to see if she's working......

Yes, if the house lights come on. If the battery is disconnected there is no other source of power other than the converter.

No house lights come on with shore power disconnected and pos batt lead disconnected and inside switch depressed at top (so as to activate inside lights)

My conclusion is that I do have converter/charger but that it is non operative

I phoned prior owner who last night confirmed that converter/charger was non operative and , thus, he had a portable 1.5 amp charger stored within batt compartment

So, I guess I'll have to charge batt with portable charger or replace converter/charger which, I assume would be EXPENSIVE

"No house lights come on with shore power disconnected and pos batt lead disconnected and inside switch depressed at top (so as to activate inside lights)"

Miranda- maybe you mis-typed that? In order to tell if the converter is working you would need the shore power CONNECTED. Is that what you meant? I am not doubting the former owner- but just to be sure (sort of) CONNECT SHORE POWER cord to 110 source. Disconnect positive battery cable- and THEN see if house lights go on. If not- then the converter is not working as designed-----maybe. It could be wiring is lose somewhere, or a breaker is blown, or a lose ground....... And, It will be hard for people to give you advice on how to check those things IF YOU WON'T USE A MULTI METER!!:)

I recommend you invite your vw mechanic friend over, get him (or her) a package or bottle of their favorite beverage- and have them assist you in figuring out the basic functions of the thing. Honest- if you can figure out your cd/television/cable remote and your cell phone and or a digital watch or camera----the multi meter is EASIER! And-he can probably help you trouble shoot the the converter while he (she) is there.

A new converter/charger would not be that expensive if it comes to that and not much more than a DECENT battery charger. Hauling around a "trickle" charger camping is not, in my opinion, going to be very adequate to re-charge your batteries appropriately when they need it. Eventually- your batteries will wear out sooner if not fully re-charged often. Then you will have added expense on replacing the battery. Trickle charges are designed to keep a fully charged battery "topped off" ---to expand Jack's analogy, its like a dripping faucet into a slowly leaking bucket when what you need at times is a fully wide open faucet.

Work the problem- be patient.

Rick

Yes, plug into shore power with the battery disconnected. Depending on the make/model of the converter there could be an internal fuse that is blown. Replacing the converter would be a wise thing to do over an external charger. A trickle charger will do the job only if you have long periods available for charging. They work best for keeping a charged battery charged.

Hilltool, I will connect to shore power, disconnect positive batt lead and see if house light come on..My mistake

Battery charge question
 

No such thing as a mistake!! Just learning experiences. It is a good idea to keep spare fuses for your converter. We have had ours blow a few times. We now have a new converter.

Slowly learning about inverter
 

Sam, Thanks. I'm learning and am always in too much of a hurry.

Are fuses easy to find?

How much will a new inverter/charger cost me?

Converter working?
 

Last night I disconnected pos lead to batt with unit plugged into 30 amp shore power

Inside lights DID come on

So, does this really mean I have a working converter, guys?


Latest glitch is that upward movement in raising top is VERY slow. Might this be caused by converter problems (loose wire or something disconnected)? Batt is brand new.

BTW I removed 1.5 amp trickle charger completely.

What should I try next?

Leave shore power plugged in and see if battery charges., at least 24 hours. Battery may be low. Yes your converter is working. You need to have somebody test with a multi meter to see if battery charger part is working.

Fuses for converter
 

Don't remember exactly what they are. We always try Walmart and then go to Auto Zone if necessary. Pull your fuse out of your converter and you will be able to match it.

Charging?
 

Hilltool, My inverter is warm to touch, so may just be charging new batt.

I'll do as you suggest and let her sit on 30 amp shore and see if batt gets fully charged

Also, I'll check fuses of inverter.

Borrowed a tool to check batt load level also

Maybe I was too quick to raise top when batt wasn't fully charged.

Here is another time where a multimeter comes in handy. Check what the voltage is at the battery when plugged in and when not. There is a noticeable rise in voltage when plugged in. That will tell you if the charger part of your "converter" is running. Read the earlier posts in this thread. An inverter is what you use to convert 12 volts to 120 volts.

Do not allow your battery to go below 12 volts because it will significantly shorten the battery's life.

Rich, charger part of inverter is working.....so now, only prob is that top rises VERY slowly.

Why?

Batt is brand new. She's been plugged in to 30 amp shore power for 3 days/nights straight.

Miranda, Crawl underneath and see if there is fluid in the plastic hose. It is attached at the piston end of the hydraulic cylinder. There should be NO fluid in that line. It returns to the reservoir, If there is a lot of red fluid in that line, you have an internal leak. This will cause the top to rise slowly without evidence of a leak on the ground, and ultimately not rise at all. Most inconvenient. Hope it's a low Batt and not an internal leak!
Tree

Tree, thanks. I will crawl under and check that plastic line for fluid tomorrow. Being brand new (last weekend), my $100 batt should not be low.....or Advance Auto will have to exchange for another new batt.

Jerry

Now is the time to put the multimeter to work. Unplug for a few hours. If the battery is reading 12.7 volts+/- it is charged up. If not, either the charger/converter is not charging or your new battery is no good. Did you leave it go dead? That can ruin a new battery.

Does the pump motor sound healthy or does it sound on the sickly side?

Pump motor sounds healthy.

New batt installed last weekend and she's been plugged into 30 amp shore ever since, so, no I didn't let her go dead......but I just might have gotten a defective batt. I will check voltage as you suggest and also load test. $100 batt is guaranteed, thankfully.

This am, we intend to move trlr to more level ground as she's leaning to one side a bit. Do you think this might be affecting speed of top going up?

You should have the trailer reasonably well leveled, it doesn't have to be perfectly level. That's also important for the fridge operation. An inch difference left to right or front to back is good.

Miranda-

Not to state the obvious- but you did re-connect the positive terminal after you checked the converter, right?? That would be the type of thing I might space out.

Also- someone mentioned this, but what we have are CONVERTER/Chargers. Not INVERTERS. Inverters do the opposite of what CONVERTERS do. I think we know what you mean but others may not if you go somewhere and try to explain your issue to somebody else.

Rick

Clear line to hyd cylindar is empty, thankfully. No red stuff in there at all. We leveled unit up slightly this am, and I think top raises better. Also load tested batt. All green. So, just maybe, thanks to all you guys, I'm good to go.

THANKS a million

Jerry

Hilltool, thanks for setting me straight re converter/charger and yes, I did reconnect pos lead wire to batt after checking whether house lights come on.

It's easy (at our ages) to make silly mistakes, isn't it.

Jerry

That's what this forum is for.
I'm glad your problems were minor.

Big thanks
 

Gotta admit, I was starting to lose confidence, having never owned a Hi-Lo before and getting worried over whether new batt plugged into 30 amp was going to lift top.

Am much relieved

Thanks forum guys

My top goes up slowly but gets there........so I'm happy

Jerry