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Old 07-01-2021, 12:27 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2020
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Default Found a Hi-Lo in Canada!

Earlier this year I was on the hunt for a 17 or 19 foot Hi-Lo. I was in contact with some really great sellers in here, but being from Calgary Canada I wasn't able to get to the States to buy any that came up for sale due to the covid border closures. In May one popped up here in Calgary, which was pretty rare as I hadn't seen one in Alberta for sale since I learned about Hi-Lo two years ago and joined this forum. This one I purchased is a 2000 model Towlite 19 foot model.

I paid $5000 CDN for it. The cheapest one I had seen States side this year was down in Florida, but most sellers were asking between $9,000 and $15,000US which would have been $11,000 to $18,000CAD before travel expenses, gas, and import fees. So I feel like I did ok, as long as it doesn't fall apart on me. I love that it fits in my garage. My 2003 5.4L F150 tows it like a dream, and I am able to use an anderson anti-sway system for the hitch.

The first thing I have done is grease the hydraulic ram with white lithium grease, and spray a little WD40 on the cable pullies. The raising and lowering of the unit seems pretty solid. I also gave it a wipe down with some Maguire's gold wash.

There are a few things I have concerns about. I think a previous owner did a recaulking job on the whole thing and there is discolored dirty black caulking around all the edges. Perhaps it was doing better than nothing at the time. Some of the siding is coming apart, and I'm not sure what to do about it at this point. There is also what appears to be a wall stud slightly buldging the siding out from the drivers side center of the trailer. The four cable pully also seem to be cutting into the underside of the top. There is water damage in a 1 foot square section of the front (table side) corners. But it has rained hard a few times here and I haven't noticed any wet walls so perhaps the initial handyman's caulk job while ugly, at least prevented more water from entering. I haven't had the chance to take it out camping until this weekend, so I will test out the fridge, AC unit, and other electrical/gas features as we go.

I'll try and attach some picture for everyone to see. I've really appreciated these forums for learning about Hi-Los, and the answers people provide. I'll try and do my part in time as I learn more about my Hi-Lo
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Old 07-01-2021, 07:35 PM   #2
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Default Welcome to the forum

Not an expert. A good place to start would be taking out windows and resealing with butyl tape and use Lexel caulk on the outside window/body of the trailer. You Tube has a video on how to do this. While the window is out you can see the layers of the wall. DH greases the cables with a product called CLR. It is found in the gun section at Walmart. WD 40 attracts dirt as you travel. Perhaps you can use some products from West boating to inject into the delamination areas. It is a known problem that the cables dig into the pullies. Perhaps someone can describe how to do the fix. It involves putting in extra metal. Maybe some mold spray would take the blackness off the caulking. Does your roof need to be coated? Others will post help for you.
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Old 07-01-2021, 08:13 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Usagi5678 View Post
You Tube has a video on how to do this. While the window is out you can see the layers of the wall.
Thanks for this message. Is this youtube video Hi-Lo specific or RV general? I do see many videos that are general RV related on re-caulking windows. I may try one window in the off season this year to see how that goes.
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Old 07-02-2021, 07:32 PM   #4
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Default Clarification on Window removal.

The You Tube video is not HiLo specific. It is actually taking out the entire window cleaning off the body of the trailer. The lining the rim of the window with new butyl tape. Re install and cut off excess butyl tape that oozes out. We left ours for several days before cutting off with a butter knife. Then the exterior is caulked with Lexel caulk. The only window you don't remove is the big curved window with the rock guard. Just check the caulking. Best to have two people with this task. Undo the screws on the inside. Gently pry the window away from the body of the trailer. Plastic scrapper. Do this in the down position. The inside person is now on the outside to help guide the window out. We used a sheet of plywood between two saw horses to have the window on. Scrape off as much of the old butyl tape as possible. It doesn't have to be perfect. Cleaned the rim with alcohol before putting new butyl tape on. Have a garbage can,glass scraper,glass cleaner, rags handy. May need a step ladder. The first one you do is scary. After that you are a pro. Play your favorite music while working. Remember to check the wall layers while you have the window out. Remember every thing on a HiLo is fixable. Some of our members are out camping this fourth of July weekend. Advice may come next week. Take Care.
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Old 07-07-2021, 10:53 AM   #5
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Thanks. I took the trailer out for a little camp this weekend. Unfortunately the campground only had 15A duplex receptacles to plug into so I was only able to test the lights and fridge in the camper. I also had little time to watch the library of videos found on this forum. There is a solar panel on this trailer which is nice too.

I'd like to confirm with someone on this forum what the black three position selector switch does. It seemed that in the up position I was able to raise my trailer off battery power only. Then when I was plugged in at the campground, the switch in the lower position allowed power to the lights and fridge. I'm not sure what the middle position is for yet.
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Old 07-07-2021, 12:38 PM   #6
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The black, 3-position switch is the Master Switch. In yours, the Up position is for raising and lowering the top - period. In the lower position, you have all the DC powered devices, lights, fan and so on - it is the position you leave it in while camping. It disables the lifting motor here so that the top cannot be accidentally lowered while camping.

The middle position is for travel - it disables everything except for DC power to the refrigerator. In this position, the top won't accidentally raise while underway and the interior devices, like the lights, furnace, etc., cannot accidentally be left on. Your refrigerator can run though, to keep your food cold.

Be aware, though, that nothing disables propane delivery except for the valves at the tanks. It IS possible to be traveling with propane turned on. One member a long time ago lowered the top with the stove turned on. The top caught fire. Make sure you turn the propane off at the tanks when you travel!

- Jack
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Old 07-08-2021, 04:38 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
The black, 3-position switch is the Master Switch. In yours, the Up position is for raising and lowering the top - period. In the lower position, you have all the DC powered devices, lights, fan and so on - it is the position you leave it in while camping. It disables the lifting motor here so that the top cannot be accidentally lowered while camping.

The middle position is for travel - it disables everything except for DC power to the refrigerator. In this position, the top won't accidentally raise while underway and the interior devices, like the lights, furnace, etc., cannot accidentally be left on. Your refrigerator can run though, to keep your food cold.

Be aware, though, that nothing disables propane delivery except for the valves at the tanks. It IS possible to be traveling with propane turned on. One member a long time ago lowered the top with the stove turned on. The top caught fire. Make sure you turn the propane off at the tanks when you travel!

- Jack
Thanks a lot for this. The fridge in this unit also appears to have a fan switch. I assume that is for when I am using propane to cool the refrigerator?

In one of the videos I saw some units have an extension cord from the AC unit to a plug. So far I haven't located mine, but I also haven't been to a camp site with a 30A plug to test the AC unit anyway.
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Old 07-08-2021, 10:58 PM   #8
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You should probably turn the fan switch for the refrigerator ON, anytime you are using the refrigerator. It is thermostatically controlled, and the fan won't run unless the evaporator gets hot enough, and then it is needed - regardless of the way the refrigerator is being powered: Propane/AC/or, DC. It is especially needed if the refrigerator is on and the unit is parked for a bit with the top down (like when you stop to eat during travel), because there is no air circulation in that condition. (You are also restricted to no more than one hour with the top down and stationary with the fridge on).

I think the cord you are referring to is the one that gets the power from the lower section where the Converter is, to the top where the A/C is. Yes, in many trailers you have to plug it in. Mine is hardwired at both ends. It is probably located next to the wire bundle that transfers DC power from the lower half to the upper half.

- Jack
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Old 07-09-2021, 12:25 PM   #9
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Default Airconditioner cord

On my 1996 26ft. Classic my airconditioner cord is located to the side of the wardrobe. This is where you plug it into the recepticle.
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