New to this experience
Hello folks, I'm new to campers and have much to learn.
Several months ago I purchased a 2001 H-L Model 2401TD (I think) after seeing it advertised on craigslist. I first visited it shortly after a major rain storm and things inside were wet (over the protective covers). They immediately dropped the price and we had a deal. It included a heavy hitch with weight dist. and sway bars. I towed to my current location (220 miles) without incident. NOTE: NO NOTED LEAKS IN THE SEVERAL MINOR RAINS WE'VE HAD SINCE TOWING IT HOME. Poor etiquette here but ... on several occasions I've attempted to join this site. For some reason my (Hotmail) account was prohibited from joining and my requests for assistance to admin went unanswered. This time I used a gmail account and it was accepted ??? We have used it (in our yard), by trial and error figuring things out. Lift works, Air Conditioner works splendid, the fridge works (both propane & ac). Just two days ago I put water to it and eventually by twisting various valves got water thru the systems without any leaks. After that I fired up the propane water heater and it worked for the single session that I observed it. I've found one overhead light that doesn't work (bulb is good) over the shower. I also have an unknown purposed switch -located on the back wall, again in the shower area. Any ideas? The interior walls show many stains blemishes etc, they do not bother me enough to fix but I would like to take care of exterior penetration points soon. I've not yet put water in the clean storage tank. Is there a switch to pressurize that? Could that be the one in my shower???? With temps in the 90's I've not tested the furnace yet. Also not tested - the two dirty water tanks, although the toilet does appears to be functional/ several flushes now. So where do I begin? Right here with you knowledgable folks. Looking forward to meeting y'all.... |
Hi - Glad you're joining us. Maybe Rich will know why your hotmail account wasn't accepted. Probably in attempt to limit spam access.
You're learning about the trailer the RIGHT way - by experimenting and doing. Good on you! There's no "pressurization" on the fresh water tank. The water is delivered by way of a DC powered electric pump that is probably in the vicinity of the hot water tank, but under a couch or something and forward of the tanks toward the faucets. When it is activated, it runs until the lines are pressurized, then cuts off and waits for the pressure to drop before running again. In my newer trailer, the switch for the pump is near the switch for the hot water heater. It only runs if the 3-position master switch is in the "up" position. Regarding your interior lights, I'd look for a fuse or circuit breaker. I don't know where these are located in your trailer though. You COULD have a wiring fault to that light socket. You'd have to pull the socket out to check. I don't know about the "unpurposed" switch. Possibly, it's for an outside light. I thought I had a similar switch by my door, but discovered it was for the "porch light" outside. There's not much to test regarding the fresh and waste tanks. Mostly, you just don't want any leaks. The fresh water tank can be sterilized with 1/4 cup bleach per 10 gals of water. Put at least 10 gals into the tank before you add any bleach though, or it will concentrate in the hot water tank which fills first. You SHOULD be able to find an owner's manual in this forum for a model that is at least close to your model year. They don't change much at all from year to year. - Jack |
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- Jack |
ta daa
I just read this and within one min I had checked it out.
Absolutely right, toggling both switches eventually resulted in light on, but just briefly. I thought I'd blown the bulb - but no, toggling a second time and all was well. I guess the electrons got lazy after sitting in this open switch. Many thanks for one less mystery. |
Next question
Is there a reference that explains the various water valves?
I found the two valves closest to the input weird. One - or the other - would result in draining the fresh water, yet toggling just one valve would pressurize the camper. Obviously I haven't studied it; I'm just muddling along trying things out. What I was expecting was the closest one would enable water/disable water and the second one (I was expecting) would divert the flow to whatever was on the other end; perhaps hot water tank or not. A visual would help much. |
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As Les said, there usually are two by-pass valves at the hot water tank. Also, there are usually two valves that empty thru the floor. One will drain the cold water lines and the other drains the hot water lines. Mine are located near the water pump.
Bob |
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Well that would explain that
"One will drain the cold water lines and the other drains the hot water lines."
Next up: I haven't poked around the hot water tank beyond the one time when I was watching for water to go thru it ... BEFORE firing it up. I only noticed one valve there but from what y'all are saying there is a second one. It has also been indicated that my water pump is likely in the same area and has a power switch nearby. That seems odd to me, I would expect it to be readily accessible/ not hidden down low in a cabinet. I'll be looking for that next week - when I can get back to it. Just finished a mess o ribs.... um, umm. |
On my 2001 the pump switch is located on or near the panel where the " tank indicator" lights are . On my 22 footer that panel is located on the side of the refrigerator cabinet that faces the front of the trailer.
Rick |
Well thank you for the reply
"the pump switch is located on or near the panel where the " tank indicator" lights are"
I just went out and checked. Why it is so obvious Ray Charles would have seen it. A bright red toggle switch labeled PUMP. It even lights up bright red when toggled. My wife occasionally notes that I have an observation deficit (SJ, have you seen my cell phone? Isn't that it in your pocket?). Thanks once again. |
Look for a switch on the tank level gauge panel on the side of the fridge, that is the pump switch.
I have no idea why your Hotmail address wasn't taken. I'm not privy to that information. |
TWO more discoveries made today
This morning I found out that the fridge rotary dial goes from (full clockwise to full counter-clock): AC - OFF - GAS - OFF - DC. I didn't know that mine had the DC option.
When I found that out I switched the system over to DC. I just checked it (12 hours later) and the main compartment was 40 Degrees. I thought that DC was only an option on some fridges and didn't realize I had it too. Additionally, while down low so I could look up/ read this switch I observed another previously unseen power switch. It was located on the bottom of an overhead cabinet, just at the trailer door opening. Yup, I also have an outside porch light (amber). |
You didn't realize there could be so many mysteries in such a small package. I'm glad you are making progress. Be careful with the fridge in the 12 volt mode. Forgetting to turn it off can drain the battery to the point that it will not hold a charge, guess how I know that. So only use it when towing down the road, assuming you have a good charge line on your tow vehicle. The fridge pulls about 15 amps so it will probably be using both battery and tow vehicle power while traveling.
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How about when
drawing power from the house, as I currently am?
I figured I could safely run it this way like day in and day out. Now that you got me worried I'm gonna go switch it back to AC/ Right now. |
That would be a good idea, and more efficient for your electric bill. If not on the grid it would be better to switch to gas, that is the most efficient mode.
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OK, now YOU'VE created another worry
by mentioning that using it this way (DC), while underway, will additionally tax the tow vehicles battery.
I'm worried here because my tow vehicle (Honda Ridgeline) has a notoriously under-powered battery. Many folks have had problems with them. Mine (original battery) went out at less than two years. Honda replaced it with another of the same kind. Once out of warranty I'll replace it with something more robust, but in the mean time .... worry, worry, worry. Thanks. |
We only turn the fridge on while on the road for more than four hours. The trick is to have everything cold before you leave. Put cold food in a well cooled fridge. You can put in a couple containers of frozen water to help keep it cold. If we stop for a length of time along the way we run the top up and turn the fridge to gas while we are gone.
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Continuing my explorations
Today I stripped the bed linens (now in the washer) so I could close the bed up and get a better peek inside the cabinets.
Checked my hot water tank and still only found one valve for it. Observed my water pump (tiny little thing) and followed the plumbing as best as I can. Observed my converter, 32A. Noticed it had two green fuses on its very bottom. They appear to be the larger/ older automotive 30A??? Can anyone confirm that - so I can pick up a spare or two? I didn't wish to disturb any of this with all the power up and running. Next I filled both waste tanks slam (southern for 100%) full; I saw no leaks but will wait 24 hours and see if they're still full. I've previously left the toilet tank flapper open and fans sucking and have smelled ZERO from it so I am assuming it was extra clean before I filled it with fresh water. Tomorrow, lordy - or -lordy, I'll drain them in the woods (I know many will think this is a terrible idea) to ensure I know how and that my sewer pipe is good. Yeah, I may have to run my house hose out there and work over the results - but I expect not. |
For sale, real cheap
one failed RV water hose.
Debating whether I should also replace the second hose (appears to be its sibling). ACT NOW BEFORE IT GOES ON eBAY. |
Garden hose -type water hose?? If that is it-be sure to replace with a "drinkable" water hose- usually white and sold in RV stores. Maybe that IS what you are talking about. So far, if that is the extent of your problems----you are doing pretty good , here. :)
Also- I've got a 2001 22 ft and I cannot imagine there is much difference between the two( yours and mine) as far as all components go. Mine is a mile or two away at a storeage lot and I dont have time today but tomorow if I can get over there I will snap a photo or two of my by- pass valves for winterizing. However, mine may have been set up a bit different given I live in Wiscosnin and I assume this is more critical here than down in your parts. All that said- if you dont have extensive water damage----you got a HELL OF A DEAL IMO on that set-up. Count your lucky stars. |
Yes it was
1 Attachment(s)
an RV type hose (one of the two that came with the camper). They were both pressurized for several days when one coupler blew off. And no, the water pressure is typical, nothing excessive.
I've now replaced it with another RV hose, but this one in bright blue with a large standoff ? connecter. I went with it because the two original white ones showed lots of dirt and I'm hoping this one will disguise the dirt better. As I haven't had even a frost in 2-3 years I don't plan on running anti-freeze thru it, just draining and leaving them all open. Doing that will ensure an extra cold winter. I can't tell how bad my water damage is; from my viewpoint as long as they stay upright on the walls then I'm OK with it. If I get ambitious I might try and cover them up with a sealer/paint - or wallpaper. Function over beauty. Any bidders for the old blown hose? (Sexy new one shown for comparisons only). NO LOW-BALLERS! |
The white water hoses are made for drinking water. The material they are made of will not give you a rubber or vinyl taste. The blue one is a household, garden variety hose and it will affect the way the water tastes in your trailer. Just thought you should know this.
Bob |
And, Wrascal, you should not connect your RV hoses directly to "line water pressure" and leave them pressurized. You should buy a water pressure regulator (they sell them in Camping World, I have one like this: In-Line Water Regulator Gauge Combo - Lead Free - Valterra A01-1124VP - Faucets & Inlets - Camping World) and put it on the supply end of the hose. Mine reduces the supply pressure from about 75-80 psi at the faucet to 45 psi through the hose and inside the trailer. You can buy them without the pressure gauge too, but make sure you get a brass one (not plastic) and don't just buy a common one at Home Depot or Lowes. You want one made especially for RV use.
- Jack |
RV water hose
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Pressure regulator
"Wrascal, you should not connect your RV hoses directly to "line water pressure" and leave them pressurized."
I previously considered one then figured I'd pick one up somewhere down the line. I believe in this case it was just an old hose that's out lived its life. That's why I'm considering replacing both hoses. |
Misadventures
Well today I went back to the waste tanks. The gray was still full but the black was a tiny bit low ... checking underneath I could see it drip - drip - dripping from around the discharge tube. As this is currently my tight spot/close to the ground with just enough room to look but not able to climb under, I don't know how they attach to each other.
Is there a gasket clamped between them or just glue/sealant, etc? |
I fixed the drip, drip, dripping
by emptying the two dirty tanks. As hoped for the black water looked like fresh water with no paper, chunks or odors. The gray water (emptied secondly) actually had a moment of cloudiness before clearing up. So .... one more thing completed on my to do list.
Of course I still need to stop the drip when tank is being used. |
My first real failure
is my water pump.
Leadup: After my sewer flush checkout I filled the fresh water storage tank (and will observe it for 24 hours); I also toggled the discharge valve several times and am happy that it opens and seals properly. Assuming it is still holding water then tomorrow I'll add Clorox. I haven't a clue how big this holding tank is nor how much Clorox to use. Guess I'll just wing it and then do multiple flushes for several days. I am aware that (once I get a running pump) I should run the cold water (but not the hot side? is that the current consensus?) to flush the lines with Clorox treatment. I would think the hot side tank would be a greater problem area and could also use treating. Problem: the pump doesn't pump; the motor runs and it sounds like it's trying but no joy. I gave it about 5 min. to prime then shut it down. It'll be a bugger to get to as it's behind some plumbing and then bolted down to the floor. Any hints or tips will be eagerly read. I wonder if it can be fixed (parts availability) or if it is even worth it, I would imagine it shouldn't cost too much ??? The best helpful tip will be invited over for burgers and beer Sunday. Plus I also have room for another camper or two. |
Another discovery
that I made today is that I have a DC distribution box. I'd seen it before (bolted to the floor between the converter and the water heater) but paid it no attention. I just assumed all this was wired directly to the converter box, but nope, an assumption bit me once again.
This time I gave THE BOX a good look-see (what is that thing?). I popped off the cover and found many additional 10A fuses (plus one that was black and labeled 1A). I guess I also need to add them to my shopping list. |
The pressure regulator is used to protect the RV's interior plumbing too. My lines are rated to 100 psi, but I don't know if that rating degrades with age.
I move chlorinated water through the hot water tank too. But I make sure it is flushed with "plain" water right afterwards. As I recall, the disinfecting rate is 1/4 cup Clorox per 10 gals water. You need to put about 10 gals water into the fresh tank first, before adding any chlorine, because the hot water tank is filled first. If you dump all the chlorine in with the first bit of water and the hot water tank is empty, it will all go into the hot water tank. Use the pump and the various faucets to move it through all lines. There ought to be an owner's manual in this forum that tells you the fresh water quantity. I suspect the fresh tank is 30 gals, and the hot water tank is probably 6 gals. - Jack |
Regulators AND flappers
I had to make an emergency run to Walmart for my lady this evening and while there I accidentally found the RV department. It was clear across the store, opposite from where my grocery list items were eventually found. They had water regulators so I picked one up, $8-$9, solid brass with an inlet screen.
Later on - as one end of my water hose was still hanging free I decided to reattach it to the trailer - just to keep it clean. This hose is now regulated, attached, but turned off. While re-hooking the hose to the camper I observed yet another new thing about it. I have a flapper type door vent above my sink window. It was in the latched position. I realized it was about where the over the stove hood is located and deduced that it's the vent. Something I wouldn't have considered if I hadn't seen it. Now I know I need to open it while camping and secure it for the road. If I discover many more items I'm gonna have to create a check list. Why hasn't one already been created for us simple minded ones? |
Lowering checklist
Check out this thread. The original poster has created a lowering checklist and it would be recommended to use this until you feel comfortable with the operation of your HiLo.
https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f55/...checklist-362/ |
So little time
to play today, but I did remove the pump (SHURflo 2088-403-144), disassemble the pump, and found absolutely nothing to indicate that it had ever been used. The diaphragm was immaculate, no visible cracks in the pump, etc. Reassembled it but then had leave it ... to be an unwilling guest of some friends of my dearest. At least the boston butt was fine!
Eventually I got home and re-installed it. Same-same, the motor runs but no suction. So ... enough screwing around with this .... I went to Amazon and ordered a replacement. SHURflo 4008-101-E65 3.0 Revolution, $68 delivered. Tuesdays delivery will see me revisiting this item. |
Do you have an antifreeze intake line on the tank side of the pump. If so, the valve may be turned to pull in antifreeze instead of water from the tank. It may be just sucking air. Also, make sure you have a few gallons of water in the tank to be sure the dip tube is submerged in the water.
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As I wasn't sure
of many things (sucking air and/or a blocked pickup tube) I tested the pumps action by placing my thumb directly over the input side of the pump /while the motor was running. No suction.
I found a complete replacement pump for $58 but decided to do a complete unit for the additional $10. The packrat that I am I'll just chunk the old one into a corner and forget about it. One day my family estate can auction it off. |
Another mystery RESOLVED
All this time I've been unhappy with the previous owner for tying the window shades down creating a very dark camper interior.
Well today I noticed a one-half inch thick white band along the bottom of these blinds. Getting all touchy feely and poking around I discovered that my blinds can be pulled upward at this point. Doing so changes the blinds from private to lightly covered. WOW, why didn't someone mention this? They've been in this position for so long that the pleats have taken a set, so chances are that they didn't know either; perhaps they've been in this position since new. It sure is nice to now have daylight in the camper. Apologies to the former owner for my dark thoughts! |
Still NO shipping notice from Amazon
that's very unusual, they've previously always shipped my items their first work day back. As I guess it won't be in today I'll be looking for another project.
Oh yeah, question .... am I correct in assuming that I should leave one faucet open when priming my water pump? I've tried it both ways - with no success - but it seems to me that water being pumped in needs the room that air is occupying. Incidentally, I still have my blown RV water hose available, now FREE. |
did you fill your water tank up? sounds like you have the hose hooked up to the city hose connection. open the 4x4 inch door on the front street side and there should be a cap you need to open and fill with water
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