Exterior Roof, doors, windows, awnings, etc
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Old 05-06-2015, 04:04 PM   #1
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Default how about a different type of seal?

I have some bad seals after fixing my water damage and some gaps are now 1/4 inch bigger even where the seal is still there. The seal doesn't seem very high end in the first place (1993 towlite). So what about vinyl base board moulding or maybe a garage door weatherstrip attached to the bottom lip of the top half? You wouldn't have to separate the 1/2s to install it and the price on the baseboard is pretty low.
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Old 05-06-2015, 04:29 PM   #2
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I actually thought about using some bulb seal in the same way you are talking about. Staple the flat part to bottom lip with bulb out making contact with lower wall. Only other thing would be put a thin strip of aluminum over the flat part and screw it in so the pressure is distributed evenly across the entire flat rubber surface and not on the staples. I can't see any reason it wouldnt work well and be more durable than the original gasket.
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Old 05-06-2015, 04:36 PM   #3
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The vinyl baseboard may work but not sure what it's gonna do around the guide strips as it goes up and down. May cut it. But it is very cheap so it could be tried without losing much if it doesn't work out. You can buy the bulb seal I was talking about online in various sizes. Just have to measure your widest gap and buy some with a bulb a little bigger than the widest gap. Just look for RV bulb seal gasket.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:43 PM   #4
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A few years back, some of our club members used the white garage door seals on their units. They acted more or less as a wiper on the lower half. The vinyl strip was notched for the guide rails.

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Old 05-06-2015, 09:26 PM   #5
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I would try and make it not "wipe" the lower half as you raise and lower it, but be just a fraction of an inch off and then take the bottom metal "D" pieces and put them as low as possible so it makes contact and seals there like the factory seals. Then on top add another strip of rubber weatherstrip (as I can't get to the top metal "D" pieces without pulling the top off) where it stops so it makes a seal there as well.
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:49 PM   #6
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A "semi" fix would be to get 1/2" foam pipe insulation and stuff it under the top. It must be removed before lowering as it will roll inside the trailer while lowering. Just a thought........

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Old 05-06-2015, 11:21 PM   #7
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Default obtaining Pbulb seal

EPDM "P bulb seal" company-McMaster Carr or epm.com pbulb seal. This info was posted somewhere on the forum. This company might be cheaper than ordering from the repair places in Ohio.
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Old 05-07-2015, 11:53 AM   #8
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I'm actually more worried about the seal while down to keep out dust and road spray while towing then I am the seal while up. If it's cold out I could just put a couple towels down each side. I don't want to drive 20 miles up a dirt road and have to completely clean the inside.

I do like the pipe insulation as a temporary solution so thanks for that!
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Old 05-08-2015, 10:44 AM   #9
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Swimming pool "noodles" also work well when cut in half lengthwise. It's back to the in season for those right now but I found some on clearance at the end of summer last year at Wal-Mart for 25 cents each. That is what I am currently using as seal for mine but only in the up position.
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:41 PM   #10
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Default seals and pool noodles

You can buy pool noodles at the dollar store or pipe noodles at HD. DH used a magic marker to mark where he placed them. We have since replaced our seals. Our bag of noodles is stored in the attic. I also looked on the internet for instructions for making home made draft stoppers. In places that leaked air I place extra insulation(towel filled with beans). One good place is the inside door ledge. This works very well in colder weather. Nothing like a homemade sewing fab job.
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