Plumbing, Water, Tanks and Waste Fresh water, storage tanks, faucets and fixtures.
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:01 PM   #1
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Default leaking black tank- the thing I never wanted to fix

Noticed a leak today from the joint where the drain pipe attaches to the black water waste tank. Seepage is coming from the TOP of the joint and i notice the weight of the pipe is forcing it to pull away a bit. When I lift the pipe a little it slows. Still- I need to fix it. I ran a search and saw that WRASCAL had repaired a similar leak with fiberglass. Someone else recommended a repair kit from rv dealer. Any other thoughts? I almost am leaning towards the fiberglass in hopes that it would provide some structural support as well as stop the leak. Any suggestions or advice are welcome.

Rick
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:55 PM   #2
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Try JB Weld for plastics. It has a good and long reputation. You can get it at most hardware stores and it comes in various forms. Make sure it is for ABS.
Amazon.com: J-B Weld 50132 PlasticWeld Syringe - Dries Off-Wite - 25 ml: Automotive
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Old 05-13-2015, 04:14 PM   #3
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Wrascal checking in as when I saw your post I remembered that same problem.

My repair was messy (I didn't use gloves) and gave me a headache, but it fixed it. I used multiple oversized (one on top of the other) mats specifically for the strength and it was rigid.

Last fall I tried the same repair on my Deere hood - there it didn't stick worth a darn (that time I wore gloves and escaped the headache). Not sticking would still be my concern with JB Weld.
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:26 PM   #4
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Maybe rough it up with some sand paper and wipe with some alcohol or naptha before application would help it adhere better.
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:57 PM   #5
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So after considering suggestion and spending hours on the web reseraching blackwater tank repair- I stopped by my local dealership/storeage/ repair facility and asked what they recommended. The manager says they use a two part product that is about 80 bucks a tube that the automotive industry used for repairing exterior plastics and adds some structural integrity. It come out of a "gun' which he said like a caulking gun. I've got the trailer at home right now- so he said if I wanted to get it prepped and then come over he'd give me the gun to back home and apply it. He did, however, suggest that the appropriate prep was to grind a groove where i was going to apply the patch. So I went back home and started contemplating grinding a 360 deg groove around the entire seam, and decided maybe it was beyond my skill set-at least on the first try. I'm not even sure which dremmel attachment I'd use. So I went back and asked what they would want to do it--- and he said it would be at least an hour or maybe two. So $100 to 200.00., as it can get complicated. I agree on the last part- but have decided i trust their experience more than mine and this not a repair I want to get half right. That tank looks like polyethelyne to me and the stuff is notorious for being difficult to bond to. So- thats what I have decided to do. I've got plenty other stuff to DYI. I hope it works. photo attached.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0636.jpg (50.5 KB, 26 views)
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:01 PM   #6
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The tanks and Pipes aremostly ABS. I have repaired several over the years and I used fiberglass cloth and ABS cement. I get the cement at Lowes in the plumbing dept. I clean the area with MEK. Get it in the paint dept. I have used 2 to 3 layers of cloth each layer larger than the one below it. Have not had any repairs fail. The best way to prevent a lot of these cracks is to not run with your tanks with any amt of liquid in them if possible. I have also found the tank support straps loose allowing the tank to bounce, need to be snug.
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Old 05-14-2015, 08:12 PM   #7
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Thanks, Jim

Just the weight of the pipe seems to be flexing the joint. I may want to figure a way to support that pipe once the repair is done. I've repaired ABS canoes with fiberglass- and sometimes the patch worked and sometimes not. i found it was often dependent on how much flex there was in hull where the repair was done. More flex-less success. I appreciate your experience on this- however. Still-I'm going to let these guys have a go at it. If it doesn't work i'm out a couple of bills, which isn't great, but not the end of the world, and I'd likely be able to get them to comp me a couple of months of storeage fees. I can always go back at it with my own repair if need be. It is a tricky area to get into and its more the prep work I have concerns about. I'd hate to screw it up and grind through the tank. Also , they say their experience is the material offers some structural integrity-as fiberglass would. I'll post when it is done. They cant get to it until after memorial day.

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Old 06-02-2015, 01:49 PM   #8
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Default repair done

local guys completed repair. Used a 3m product I think- when I confirm it I will send the link. In the meantime- here are a few photos. The best thing they did was build a little brace for the dis-charge pipe. I dont know how newer trailers did it- but mine was certainly in a position where the flexing caused the joint to weaken where it goes ito the tank. This should help.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0351.jpg (56.5 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0352.jpg (60.7 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0353.jpg (56.2 KB, 15 views)
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:55 AM   #9
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I fixed a leaking plastic boat we had using a propane torch and #2 plastic like a milk jug. You heat the repair area up until it looks glossy and then heat the piece of milk jug up and lay it on top and then heat it until it turns clear. Not so much to make it burn. Then you can add layers to make it even stronger. We had tried all kinds of epoxy and caulking but it still always leaked until we did the free milk jug repair.
My grey tank is dripping a bit at the seam so I will try it there.
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Old 06-03-2015, 12:46 PM   #10
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I like the extra support and think I will add that to my trailer as a "preventive" measure!

I'd have never thought of "welding" new plastic over a crack. What a cool idea!

- Jack
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