I am finding that leveling my 2207T can be quite a challenge. As you may know the refrigerator requires that the Hi-Lo be as level as possible for it to work properly, this is less true of newer Hi-Lo's than the older modes as the refrigerators in newer units are more tolerant of being slightly out of level. I never seem to have the exact board or rock to put under the dual axle tires to level my unit, so far I have gotten close enough for everything to function properly buy is truly a drag.

I found a device, the BAL Light Trailer Leveler which is designed for single axle trailers; they claim it eliminates the need for moving trailer onto blocks or ramps to level. It is available from PPL Motor Homes for $76.00, but I would need two of them for $156.00.

Then there is the Model 1862 tandem wheel RV Pillo Leveler. All you have to do is park the low side tires on the non-inflated RV Pillo leveler and place chock between tires on the non-inflated leveler and inflate with your 12-volt air compressor until level. Available from the manufacturer for $315.00.

Does anyone have a better solution in use?

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John

2007-22T TowLite 50th Anniversary, Valley Towing Equalizer Hitch
2008 Nissan Frontier SE 4X4 Crew Cab, Snug Top & McKesh Mirrors
Cooper AT3 LT265/70R16 AT w Slotted Rotors, Ride-Rite Air Springs

I keep a shovel in my camper, & I place 1 inch thick (4x8 inch) boards to suit the leveling process, however sometimes it is easier to dig the high side down a little especially if you need more than 4 inches, because the trailer has a heck of a time getting up 4 inches that quickly...

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From Kansas: 29ft '95 5th, converted to toybox in rear, by Hilo. Pics soon, Some Here.

What's more, if you have a single axle trailer like we do, putting one wheel way up on leveling blocks makes the whole thing unstable, since you really can't chock the wheel when it's up that high. (I know, having had it roll off the blocks once as soon as I disconnected the hitch.)

Digging out the high side is definitely the safest approach. But, I have and use the BAL Light Trailer Leveler when possible. I got mine at Camping World, and I think it was in the range of $50.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T
2005 F150 4x4 KR SCrew

I agree with Sting - The simplest is best. I have a slot on the a-frame where I carry 2 heavy 2 inch planks and I always have a shovel.

I have given this a lot of thought and I can not think of a reason why raising the Hi-Lo by the reinforced frame area between the axles would be any more stressful to the frame than raising the Hi-Lo by the axles (wheels). So I am experimenting with a 6 ton bottle jack (which I all ready have) and a couple blocks of 4x6. There seems to be no effect on the ability of the door to open and close, and the bottle jack seals appear to hold the weight without settling down. Any comments?

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John

2007-22T TowLite 50th Anniversary, Valley Towing Equalizer Hitch
2008 Nissan Frontier SE 4X4 Crew Cab, Snug Top & McKesh Mirrors
Cooper AT3 LT265/70R16 AT w Slotted Rotors, Ride-Rite Air Springs

The only thing I can think of is that the loading on the frame is at a small single point rather than at the two points where your axles attach. It also seems somewhat unstable compared to rolling the tandem wheels up on leveling blocks and then using one of those expanding chocks between the wheels.

Bottom line, I don't think I'd camp with the trailer leveled that way if I had a tandem axle trailer.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T
2005 F150 4x4 KR SCrew

The only comment that I have is that this won't work on older Hi-Los as they have a box frame and have springs on the axle and the swing piece between the springs is in the middle. Even if you could jack in the middle on them it would effect the bottom door.
I don't see a problem on the I beam frames because for jacking up for tire removal the jack is to be put on the frame and it doesn't matter if you put it infront of front axel or behind the rear axel as the whole side goes up and both tires are off the ground. Stablity might be a problem.

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Rich
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(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
99 Ford Explorer 4DR 4X4

I was thinking about getting those lego blocks for RV leveling... but I wanted a hard rubber kind, not the plastic kind... I don't think the plastic kind will hold up very long.

Anyone use those at all?

I've been using the same yellow ones (camping world) for years under my Class B van. The only problem I've encountered is using them on gravel without something under them. The cross sections got mashed and a few of them will not stack very well now.

DavidC,
Ditto the last entree by Atlee. I've found it's pretty easy to zero in side to side leveling by varying the height of the stack. On our rig one block on under just one tire on one side (we have tandem axles) will raise that side about 1/2". A block under each wheel on one side raises that side by about 1"...and so on. I've found leveling adjustment to be fairly predictable using interlocking stackable blocks.
As Jack he suggests, when using these interlocking blocks, especially using two or more courses, I always install a stabilizer "chock" that expands between the tires, locking them against each other (wow, they really work well!).
Jim

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1967 17' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1967-1969)
1969 19' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1969-2011)
2004 27' Hi-Lo TowLite (2010-present)
2007 Chevy Suburban